Ghee This is the Indian version of clarified butter—that is, butter from which milk solids are removed. Ghee is one of the primary cooking fats used in India. Unlike regular clarified butter, the process of making ghee involves melting the butter over a low heat and then simmering it until all the moisture has evaporated, and the milk solids have separated from the fat. The milk solids are then removed, leaving a pure fat that is excellent for deep-frying because of its high smoke point. I just love the way ghee infuses food with a delicious flavor and aroma. It has a buttery and a nutty flavor. I often add a few drops to hot rice dishes, dals, and curries as finishing oil. Ghee has a very long shelf life and at room temperature will keep for 4–6 months. Store it in a clean, airtight plastic or glass jar. Ghee is commonly available in Indian grocery stores and is typically sold in glass or plastic jars as a solid, butter-like fat. In many recipes in this book, I have called for ghee, which I feel brings out the best flavor of those dishes. If you do not have ghee, substitute a mixture of equal parts of unsalted butter and neutral-flavored oil.
To Make Ghee at Home: Melt 1 lb (450 g) of unsalted butter in a heavy-bottomed, medium-size saucepan over medium-low heat. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the milk solids turn a rich golden color and settle to the bottom of the pan, about 15–20 minutes. Initially, the butter will foam and as it simmers the foam will subside. Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth or muslin into a sterilized jar. This recipe makes about 2 cups (500 ml) of ghee. Note: Use either one 12-in (30-cm) square piece of fine muslin or four layers of cheesecloth.
Lentils see Dried Legumes
Mangoes This fruit is native to the Indian sub-continent, where it has been grown for more than 4,000 years. Because the mango seed can’t be dispersed naturally by wind or water, owing to its large size and weight, it is believed that people who moved from one region to another transported the fruit to new areas. Though mango cultivation has now spread to many parts of the tropical and sub-tropical world, including Brazil, Mexico, the West Indies, and parts of Florida, nearly half of the world’s mangoes are cultivated in India alone.
Mangoes are widely used in Indian cuisine. The green, unripe mangoes are sour and are used to make chutneys, pickles, and sometimes side dishes such as Chickpea, Mango, and Watercress Salad (page 45). As a chef’s tip, I say when you make salads calling for a crunchy vegetable like carrots or radishes, replace them with green, unripe mangoes for a unique tangy twist. Green, unripe mangoes are also eaten raw with a sprinkle of salt and Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper, which is my favorite way to eat them. Chilled Mango Cooler (page 132), a very popular and refreshing summer drink, is made with green, unripe mangoes blended with water, mint, sugar, salt, cumin, and ice.
Ripe mangoes are typically eaten fresh. Mango Lassi (page 133), made by adding mango pulp to yogurt, is the most popular drink in India and Indian restaurants worldwide. Ripe mangoes are used to make desserts as well as savory curries. Aamras—sweetened, thick, ripe mango pulp with the flavor of cardamom—is a popular dish in western India that is served along with Fried Puffed Bread (page 125). The Alfonso mango is considered the sweetest and best of all the eating mangoes. For some recipes, I use canned Alfonso mango purée (available in Indian grocery stores) when fresh ones are not in season.
When shopping for ripe mangoes, look for fruit with unblemished yellow skin with a red tinge or blush. You should avoid mangoes that have bruises or soft spots. You can buy green mangoes and ripen them at home by placing them in a brown paper bag on your counter for a week. Ripe mangoes will last 2–3 days at room temperature or for up to 5 days in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.
You can find green mangoes in most Indian, Southeast Asian, or South American markets. When shopping for green mangoes, make sure they are firm and their skins are dark green in color and unblemished. Store them at room temperature uncovered. They will last about 2 weeks.
Mint An aromatic, almost exclusively perennial herb with a very refreshing taste, fresh mint is used in Indian marinades, chutneys, drinks, and desserts and in curries and rice dishes. I also use dried mint for making breads in my kitchen. Chopped fresh mint leaves steeped in a cup of hot water with tea and honey is one of my favorite after-dinner beverages. The spearmint variety is most commonly used in Indian cooking. When purchasing mint, make sure the leaves are fresh and green in color without black spots or cracks. See “Storage Tips for Spices and Herbs,” page 12.
Mustard Seeds These tiny, round, hot and pungent seeds are from an annual plant in the cabbage family. They are available in white, yellow, brown, or black colors. The white seeds, the largest type, are used to make commercial mustards in the United States; the yellow and brown seeds are used for European mustards and for pickling. In India, the black seeds are used in cooking and are the source of commonly used oil. Black mustard seeds are used whole and in powdered form. The whole seeds are used in vegetables dishes, curries, appetizers, salads, and dried legumes, while the powder is used to flavor steamed fish, pickles, and, again, curries. Mustard seeds are available at Indian grocery stores and online (see Shopping Guide, page 140).
Oils and Fats In Indian kitchens, oil is used alone or in combination with ghee (clarified butter) to fry flavorings at the start of cooking or to deep-fry foods. The oil used depends on the culture and region. When I call for oil, you may use any neutral-flavored vegetable oil (for example, canola, safflower, or corn oil). In addition to using unflavored oils, Indians use toasted sesame oil, coconut oil, and peanut and mustard oils to impart distinct flavors to dishes. I have not used these oils in my recipes because some are hard to find and they give a very distinct flavor to the food, which, though popular in India, can be an acquired taste for non-Indians. When I call for oil for deep-frying, it’s important to use an oil that is relatively stable at high temperatures, such as peanut or safflower oil. Olive oil, which is a very healthy oil, can also be used to cook Indian food.
Paprika Known as kashmiri mirch in India, paprika is a red powder made from dried, mild, non-pungent chili peppers. It is mainly used for the rich red hue it adds to curries. When added to hot oil, it immediately releases a deep red color. Most Indian paprika comes from Kashmir, hence the name. Kashmiri mirch is available at Indian grocery stores or online (see Shopping Guide, page 140). The easily available, mild Hungarian paprika is a good substitute.
Peppercorns These are one of the oldest-known spices and are often referred to as the king of spices. Peppercorns are the berries of the pepper plant, a branching evergreen creeper that grows mainly in the hot and humid monsoon forests of southwest India. The plant is indigenous to India and dates back to 4,000 BCE. The very tangy, slightly hot berries grow like clusters of grapes on the pepper plant. Peppercorns range in color from white to green to black. White peppercorns are picked ripe, and their outer skin is removed. Green peppercorns are underripe berries that are cured in brine. Black peppercorns are picked underripe and allowed to dry until dark black. Black peppercorns are most commonly used and impart an incredible flavor to all curries. The world’s top quality black pepper is grown in Indian in the southwest coastal state of Kerala and is known as Tellicherry pepper. The recipes in this book call for dry and oil-roasted, ground and crushed black peppercorns.
Pulses see Dried Legumes
Rice is an indispensable part of Indian meals. It is served as a staple alongside curries and dals and is eaten at least twice a day in India. There are many distinctive kinds of rice grown and sold in the Indian subcontinent. For everyday meals, the type of rice used varies from region to region. While people in southern