Author’s camp below the Kanda La (Trek 8); if trekking independently you will need to carry all your camping equipment as well as food for most of the trek
Trekking without a guide or a horseman is possible, but is a demanding choice. It is both physically and mentally hard. If trekking alone in remote areas you will usually need to carry much more than 20kg on your back, and it will be a tough routine of early wake-ups, packing, cooking and so on. You will depend on no one, but also there will be no one there to help you. Finding the way is not always easy; the path will be precipitous; rivers will be cold and hard to cross.
Carrying your rucksack all day gets tiring. You will need to learn your physical limits and find the strength to keep going. You will be alone for hours at night and sometimes even for a few long days. You will be totally cut off from the modern world. However, no other style of trek will teach you so much about yourself, give you so much experience and probably so much satisfaction!
Because Ladakh is such a demanding place it is not a good idea to trek independently if you have not done it elsewhere. Choose a popular route, where you will meet people and pass villages where you can sleep and eat. If you are an inexperienced trekker take a companion with you – two heads are better than one.
Trekking alone requires skills that cannot be learned from a book and must be gained through experience. The author is convinced that, despite the obvious risks, trekking alone can be enjoyed by those with the right attitude and ability.
Village-to-village trekking
Such trekking is based on local accommodation and food (homestay) and is the easiest form of independent trekking. It gives a glimpse into local life and you learn infinitely more about the culture than when travelling with an organised trekking group. Although no route in this book can be done entirely in this way, the number of camping nights can be limited. You can also modify some of the routes to make a wonderful village-to-village trek. This mode of trekking will lessen the load you need to carry, yet will let you retain your independence. Some commercial trekking companies now offer this style of trip.
Arranged locally
Hiring a horseman and ponies makes the trekking easier; it is a fantastic experience and may herald the beginning of long friendships. You may arrange your trek directly, simply by going to the starting point and trying to find animals and a horseman. This is usually possible during the peak season on the popular routes; horsemen who have finished their last trek wait for a new job for a few days before starting for home. The price depends on the route; it should be about Rs400 for a day for one horse, but remember that not only your own luggage has to be carried, but also the horseman’s equipment and the animals’ food. You can arrange to use the horseman’s stove or other gear. Usually, he can also cook for you and will be your guide, translator and companion. Good places to try this are: Lamayuru, Phanjila, Martselang (near Hemis), Shang Sumdo, Padum and Darcha. Be prepared, however, to take a few days to find someone. For other destinations it is better to arrange everything in advance, and the agencies in Leh will be happy to help. For treks in Zanskar, try contacts at www.trekzanskar.org.
Testha village on the Kargyak River, Zanskar (Trek 3); staying in villages is a great opportunity to learn about local culture
It is also possible to arrange a fully organised trek directly with a reputable agent in Ladakh. You can find a list of agents based in Leh in advance, but it is best to arrange the trek on the spot in order to ascertain exactly what is (and what is not) included. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of companies there (most offices are only open in high season), and your guesthouse staff can certainly help. If you plan to start the trek in Darcha or in Zanskar check out www.trekzanskar.org. The price depends on the service you buy (staff, equipment, food, pack animals), the route, the season and number of people in your group. Be prepared to pay at least £33 per day per person for a full package. Be aware that it may take a few days to arrange, so if you have little time organise as much as you can in advance. (Agents offering treks in Ladakh are easily found on the Internet; try to choose one run by local Ladakhi people. Check the agents on the official website of Leh District – www.leh.nic.in (under Tourism) – and on www.trekzanskar.org). Note that there will be no liability insurance cover in the event of any accident so make sure to buy a policy before leaving your home country. Double check that enough time has been allowed for acclimatisation – if you are not sure, discuss the issue with the agent. Make sure to talk about planned stages and the route before you leave, and discuss the price for an extra day in case you need one.
Overnight camp on a commercial trek: Purni village (Treks 2–4)
If you have time and are willing to forego some security and comfort arranging the trek on your own will save you some money, but usually only those who have already been to and experienced Ladakh are comfortable with this option.
Commercial trek
The vast majority of trekkers to Ladakh select this option for their first visit. Most of those with a limited time period choose to book in their own country with an established trekking outfit. Going for a fully organised trek will give you much comfort and security. Because the trekking company will supply much of the necessary camping equipment, you will not need to invest in a lot of expensive gear. There is usually a guide and a cook, as well as one or more horsemen to take care of the pack animals and do the work in camp. Horses or donkeys carry all the equipment and luggage, but you will need a medium-sized rucksack to carry your water and anything you need during the day.
One disadvantage of group trekking is that you may be hiking with fellow travellers who have underestimated the challenges and may not be in the best of spirits. However, most hikers enjoy the conviviality of like-minded fellow walkers. One other serious danger of group trekking is the possible effect of ‘peer pressure’. At its worst this can overrule common sense, with some members ignoring symptoms of altitude sickness in the unacknowledged race to compete. Do not fall into this lethal trap.
The following checklist may help you decide which company to go for:
Check what is included in the price when comparing different companies, and balance that against what equipment you will need to buy if trekking independently.
Many fully organised groups fly to Leh, although you might find a trek that starts in Darcha or even in Padum, getting there by bus or jeep.
Make sure that there would be enough time for acclimatisation; beware of trips that are very short and at high altitude.
Ask for details of the company’s insurance cover, and make sure that is broad enough.
Examine the scheduled stages, the distances and altitudes.
Note the number of people taken: the trek will probably be less enjoyable in a big group.
Compare prices, bearing in mind all these points.
Try to keep fit before the trip and follow any preparatory advice given by the tour operator.
No list of tour operators has been given in this guidebook. You may find useful advice in travel magazines and via reliable travel websites. Most of the reputable international trekking companies have trek options in Ladakh available.
THE IMPACT OF GROUP TREKKING
Many trekking companies tend to organise perhaps overly ‘luxurious’ trips and take items