The statue of Maitreya in Likir, Central Ladakh
Kagyu-pa
The Kagyu-pa sect is attributed to the Indian mystic translator (Lotsawa) Marpa (1012–97), a disciple of Atisa. He followed other famous Indian sages, Tilopa and Naropa, who are also considered masters of Kagyu-pa. The Kagyu-pa concentrate their meditations on inner mental and spiritual matters. They choose to be close to their teachers. The Kagyu-pa sect has a number of sub-groups, such as Dagpo, Drigung-pa, Druk-pa, Taglung-pa and the Karma-pa.
Karma-pa (Karmarpa)
The Karma-pa (Karmarpa) is a sub-sect that has descended from the master, Gampopa (1079–1153), whose life was reputedly foretold by Buddha Sakyamuni. The Black Hat Karmarpas are just one influential body within the sect, but are famous for their festival dances.
Drigung-pa
The Drigung sect has its founding monastery of Drigung Til about 125km northeast of Lhasa. Its founder was Jigten Sumgon (1143–1217). In Ladakh he is called Skyoba Jigjen.
Druk-pa
The northern Druk-pa are found in Tibet and Ladakh, while the southern Druk-pa are found in Bhutan. The sect originated in the 12th century in Ralung, near Gyangtse in southern Tibet. Many Druk-pa lamas left Ralung because of persecution by Gelug-pa followers. The Shabdrung, the spiritual leader of the Druk-pa sect, was a descendant of the founder of the Ralung Gompa, and in 1616 he also left for Bhutan.
Sakya-pa
The Sakya-pa began in the 11th century south of modern-day Lhatse, west of Xigatse. This sect stresses the need for study of the existing Buddhist scriptures. Under the Sakya-pa the two great Tibetan Buddhist bibles, the Tangyur and Kangyur, were compiled. The Sakya-pa flourished under Mongolian patronage, but later declined.
Gelug-pa
The Gelug-pa is the Yellow Hat sect of the Dalai Lama, initiated by Tsong Khapa, who reformed and developed Atisa’s original ideas. This form of Buddhism reverted to a purist format, bringing greater morality and discipline to the monks. It sought to remove some Tantric aspects and to cleanse the religion. The first monastery was established at Ganden, near Lhasa. The Dalai Lamas are the spiritual leaders of the Gelug-pa sect. In the early 15th century, the Gelug-pa schools came to Ladakh from Tibet and established the majority of the monasteries that exist today.
Planning the trip and the trek
When to go?
Putting aside winter treks, the recommended trekking season runs from late spring (mid-June) throughout the summer to late autumn (mid-October). The peak season, both for sightseeing and for trekking, is much shorter and lasts from mid-July to the end of August. Late August or September is therefore probably the best time for trekking in Ladakh. In spring and early summer many routes are inaccessible due to snow on the passes. In late June and July the rivers are high, making some of the crossings impossible. In August there are many big tour groups – not a good time for those who seek a quiet mountain adventure.
Wildflowers flourishing on the wide plains of Zanskar, near Padum, in summer (Treks 3–6)
By September autumnal colour starts to appear. Rivers, grey with melted glacier water in summer, become clear and incredibly turquoise in colour. Wild animals, having spent the summer on high pastures, come to the lower elevations and are more easily spotted. People have finished their work in the fields and have more time to talk and to host you in their homes; and it is still warm enough for a pleasant trekking experience.
October is cold but trekking is not impossible. It is a good idea to stay in the villages at night, avoid river crossings and high passes, and take extra clothes. Snow can fall in mid-October, even in Leh!
Which route?
The choice of route depends on the season, your experience, the available time and the preferred style of trekking. No trek is easy in Ladakh, but some are hard, others less demanding. If you are not an experienced trekker and want to trek on your own (see How to trek?), choose one of the classics: Markha Valley (Trek 8), Darcha to Padum (Trek 3) or Padum to Lamayuru (Trek 5). The Alchi circuit (Trek 7) is a little more physically demanding than the Markha Valley trek, but is generally easier than other treks. It is a good alternative to the latter, which is much more popular and crowded in the high season.
Local women with donkeys in the upper Markha Valley, with the Kang Yaze peaks beyond (Trek 8)
The Kharnak trek (Trek 1) is the longest, most diverse, remotest and most demanding trek in this guidebook. The Tsarab Chu trek (Trek 2) is a demanding route to Zanskar, a great alternative to the classic Darcha to Padum. The Kanji La route (Trek 6) is a beautiful although tough alternative to the classic trek from Zanskar (Trek 5). Needless to say, these three are the best in the book. None of them, however, can be done throughout the whole season.
The beautiful Round Sultanlango trek (Trek 4) is taxing with precipitous, narrow paths, river crossings and a long ascent to the pass. However, the time spent in remote areas is relatively short, hence the amount of supplies to be carried is reduced. It is a less popular trek in Zanskar, accessible only in late summer and autumn.
The treks overview table (see Appendix A) will help you decide which trek is most suitable for you.
How long to stay?
You need to allow at least two weeks in Ladakh if you want to trek. Remember that acclimatisation takes time, that even shorter treks require about seven days, and that getting to the starting points on most of the routes also takes time.
Additional time must be built in for getting to and from Ladakh. You can’t be sure about flights and roads, because of the weather, snowfalls and landslides that may cause delays and closures at any time during the season. It normally takes two days to get to Leh by road from either Manali or Srinagar (check the security issues if contemplating a route via Srinagar in the Kashmir Valley). Getting to Manali by road from Delhi takes at least a day, and getting to Srinagar from Delhi takes one to three days, but this cannot be recommended at the time of writing due to political unrest.
Flying is the preferred way for many travellers and most groups. It is much faster (under two hours from Delhi), but allow for possible delays due to inclement weather conditions and remember that you will need to build in more time to acclimatise (see How to get there).
How to trek?
All the treks described in this guide have been covered independently by the author, mostly alone. This style of trekking in Ladakh, however, is hard work and is considered by many as either madness or masochism! Luckily there are other options available.
Any of the styles of trekking described below can be tailored to the routes in this book. Your choice should depend on which trail appeals, the fitness and experience of the trek members, and the time you want to spend trekking. Judge your capabilities honestly before you go.
Trekking alone or in a small, independent group
Ladakh is basically a wild mountain desert. Trekking independently to remoter areas and thus increasing the level of risk should not be the first choice for most people – far better to do a shorter trek on the first visit. Obviously walking alone (or as a couple) gives great flexibility; there are no disputes with others in the party