St Michael’s, Newchurch
As early as the 12th century, Newchurch was known as Eglwys Newydd, suggesting that St Michael’s Church, which stands here now, is of Norman origin, but replacing an earlier Celtic church. Two inscribed Christian stones dating from the fifth or sixth century, probably from the earlier church, have been found near here.
On entering the village, turn left immediately before the first house on the left, and follow a pleasant grassy bridleway between high field banks and passing through several gates as it descends into the pretty Nant Hir Valley. Cross the stream and continue ahead, beginning the steady ascent out of the valley. Parts of the route here can become a little churned up after wet weather due to lack of drainage and cattle using the bridleway.
At the end of the bridleway, turn left along the access drive to Llecheigon Farm to reach the road then go right along this for just over 1.5km, with views to the right over Carmarthen in the latter stages. Turn left at a bridleway sign on the left, crossing a cattle grid and joining a concrete access drive that soon descends into the Nant Tinc Valley.
At a fork in the drive, bear right, crossing a cattle grid and following the drive towards Clynmelyn Farm. In the bottom of the valley the drive crosses the Nant Tinc stream and 30 metres beyond this, bear right off the drive, passing through a pair of galvanised gates into a meadow. Go left through the meadow, keeping parallel to the stream, to a stile on the far side and once over bear slightly left along a grassy track between trees, climbing steadily up the side of the valley initially, before descending towards Pante Farm, with fabulous views to the west towards the Brecon Beacons.
Where the track swings sharp right towards Pante Farm, turn left and climb a stile beside a gate (waymarker) and walk along the right edge of a sloping field to a stile on the far side, leading onto an access drive to cottages and follow this down to the A484. Cross the A484 to a footpath on the far side and bear left, turning right at the first opportunity at the junction leading to the Gwili Steam Railway. To visit the railway continue down the road for 350 metres to reach Bronwydd Station on the left where there are toilets and a café.
Steaming up on the Gwili line
The Gwili Railway is a lovingly restored monument to the nostalgic days of steam that now puffs its way along part of what was formerly the Carmarthen to Aberystwyth railway, which operated for over 100 years until closure in 1965. The Gwili Railway was formed in 1975 and by 1978 had purchased and rescued about 13km of track bed and was running its first steam-hauled service on just over a 1.5km section of what is the first standard-gauge railway to be preserved in Wales. Since then the railway has expanded and currently runs to Danycoed Halt, some 5km northwest of its base at Bronwydd Arms. At the time of writing, the company has begun work further south, towards Carmarthen, and has re-laid track to a new station called Carmarthen North built at the old Abergwili junction.
Turn right again after 20 metres and follow the narrow lane steeply down to cross the railway line followed by the River Gwili. Immediately on the far side of the bridge turn left over a stile and join a riverside footpath that runs along the left edge of fields, through a short section of woodland and round the edge of another field, always with the river to the left, before eventually reaching a lane on the outskirts of Bronwydd. Go left along the lane to a T-junction and go left over Pont Newydd Bridge, which marks the end of the walk.
WALK 2
Cenarth and Newcastle Emlyn
| Start/Finish | Car park, Cenarth Falls (SN 269 416) |
| Distance | 11km (7 miles) |
| Ascent | 305m (1005ft) |
| Time | 3–4hrs |
| Maps | Explorer 198 |
| Refreshments | Pubs and cafés in Cenarth and Newcastle Emlyn |
| Public transport | Bus 460 between Carmarthen and Cardigan stops in both Newcastle Emlyn and Cenarth. No services on Sun. |
The River Teifi is one of the longest rivers in Wales and recognised as being of international importance for its wildlife. It also forms the county boundary in this part of the country, so the southern half of the walk is in Carmarthenshire, while the northern half steals over the border into Ceredigion. It also visits the spectacular Cenarth Falls and the lovely town of Newcastle Emlyn. It mainly follows clear footpaths, quiet lanes and largely clear tracks, but a problem could lie at the start of the walk when the river is in spate and the riverside footpath is under water; at such times a short section of road can be used to avoid the hazard.
From the car park, join the riverside footpath, passing the spectacular falls and walking along the beautiful wooded gorge of the Afon Teifi. The building on the opposite bank is a 17th-century flour mill, complete with waterwheel. If the river is in spate and the riverside path inundated, go left along the road for a short distance and take the first turning on the right, opposite the chapel to rejoin the walk in 800 metres.
Cenarth is famous for its waterfalls, where salmon can be seen leaping in the autumn as they head up the Teifi to their spawning grounds, and where canoeists pit their skills against the cascades throughout the year. The traditional coracle is still used by fishermen on the river and Cenarth is the home of the National Coracle Centre of Wales.
Cenarth Bridge over the Afon Teifi
Eventually the footpath swings left, away from the river, climbing gently through the edge of woodland to a junction with a quiet lane (an alternative start joins here), bearing right along it. After negotiating a sharp left bend by Penwenallt Farm, continue for a further 150 metres then go right, through a kissing gate in the hedge, cross a field to another kissing gate on the far side and once through, turn left to walk along the top edge of a steeply wooded gorge, with glimpses through the trees of the Teifi Valley to the right. The path eventually begins to descend, emerging onto a farm track, where it is necessary to climb a stone step stile to the left of a gate before proceeding into the hamlet of Cwm-cou and a surfaced lane which bends round to the left and a junction with the B4333.
Turn sharp right along the road for 200 metres, taking the second lane on the left, signposted as a No Through Road, cross a bridge over the little Afon Ceri and proceed along a surfaced lane through the hamlet of Pont-Ceri, before climbing steadily out of the valley with ever improving views over the Teifi and Newcastle Emlyn to the right. At a T-junction in Adpar (site of the first printing press in Wales, set up in 1718) turn right and descend steeply before swinging left to a road junction with the bridge over the river to the right. Join the pedestrian footpath over the bridge and walk up Bridge Street into Newcastle Emlyn. To visit the castle ruins, go left by the old Town Hall in Market Square, continuing along Castle Street to the very artistic entrance to the castle grounds.
The attractive entrance to the castle at Newcastle Emlyn
Newcastle Emlyn is a busy and bustling town with a market every Friday and an array of small shops, inns, cafés and restaurants. Prior to the building of the castle by Meredith ap Rhys Gryg, on its almost island peninsular in the Teifi Valley in 1240, only a few roughly built cottages stood around the outer banks of the river. Following its construction, a cluster of dwellings sprang up, some for soldiers and Lord Meredith’s dependants, others for newcomers and traders to the region seeking both work and protection. All that remains of the castle today is the gate and a few walls, with much of the stone being reclaimed to construct buildings in the town.
Continue along the main street, now Sycamore Street, and go left, passing more shops, pubs and cafés, to just after where the road curves left and here turn right, immediately after passing the Plough Hotel, into Porth Street. At the T-junction at the end, cross the A484, turn right on the opposite side and take the first