Please refer to Appendix B for details of websites, addresses and telephone numbers that may assist with a stay in Carmarthenshire.
Clockwise from left: common orchids; a wildflower-strewn meadow; cinnabar moth on thistle; rowan berries
What to take
Much of Carmarthenshire’s weather comes winging in on southwesterly air streams, meaning rain is always a possibility, so a good set of quality waterproofs is a must, along with a few spare warm layers for cold or windy days. Also, a number of the walks venture out into high moorland and mountain terrain, where conditions underfoot can get pretty wet, so a stout pair of waterproof boots is also recommended. Because weather conditions can change quite rapidly, particularly on high ground, the appropriate map, a compass and a whistle should also be packed. That said, warm, sunny days are equally likely and the southwesterly air streams tend to bring mild conditions. Because of the county’s outstanding array of scenery and prolific wildlife, a camera and binoculars are also worth packing.
Maps and waymarking
The walks in this book are covered by seven 1:25,000 Ordinance Survey maps:
Outdoor Leisure 12 (Brecon Beacons National Park. Western area)
Explorer 164 (Gower)
Explorer 177 (Carmarthen & Kidwelly)
Explorer 178 (Llanelli & Ammanford)
Explorer 185 (Newcastle Emlyn)
Explorer 186 (Llandeilo & Brechfa Forest)
Explorer 187 (Llandovery)
Cenarth (Walk 2)
Waymarking is generally very good to excellent, apart from on some of the exposed ridges, moors and mountains, where a map and compass may be necessary; GPS signals are fine in most areas. The furniture on most of the walks is good, with sound stiles and many new pedestrian and kissing gates. Many of the walks pass through woodland where fallen trees may present an obstacle. Where such obstacles were found, mention is made in the text and, if necessary, an alternative route given.
‘Carmarthenshire Footpaths’ sign
Using this guide
There are 30 walks in this guide, 26 of them being circular and four of them being linear along sections of the Carmarthenshire Coast Path (CCP). The walks are organised into six loosely defined geographical areas. Walks 1–4 cover the northwestern area, Walks 5–8 the central region, Walks 9–12 the Cambrian Mountains and upper Tywi Valley, Walks 13–18 the Y Mynydd Du (the Black Mountains), Walks 19–23 the southeastern part along Carmarthen Bay and Walks 24–30 the southwestern corner and holiday resorts along that stretch of coast.
The Tywi Valley from Carreglwyd (Walk 15)
Some are relatively short excursions that can easily be completed in a few hours, while others require considerably more time and can be quite challenging as they head out into open country, where knowledge of map and compass use is highly recommended.
The time needed to complete the walks will vary, depending on fitness, experience and even the composition of a party, should there be several people attempting a walk together. However, it is roughly based on a person being of reasonable fitness and able to cover around 2mph.
In places, it’s possible to link some of the walks together to make a lengthier outing, or even to shorten some, should time be an issue. Where this is the case, there is mention of the fact in the introductory paragraph to the walks concerned. The four linear walks, along the CCP, all have good bus or rail (or both) links back to the start.
Routes are illustrated with extracts from the OS 1:50,000 Landranger maps, but it is highly recommended that the relevant 1:25,000 Explorer maps also be referenced and carried. The main route is highlighted in orange, with any alternative route marked in blue. In such cases, the alternative route is described in the main route description. Features along the way that appear on the map are highlighted in bold in the main description.
The contents of this book hardly scratch the surface of the plethora of potential walks that are available in Carmarthenshire, but I hope you enjoy any that you attempt and that it whets your appetite for walking in this fabulous county.
IN AND AROUND THE TEIFI VALLEY
The pretty Nant Tinc on the return leg towards Bronwydd (Walk 1)
WALK 1
Bronwydd and the Gwili Valley
Start/Finish | Bronwydd Village Hall car park (SN 419 246) |
Distance | 11km (7 miles) |
Ascent | 260m (855ft) |
Time | 3–4hrs |
Maps | Explorer 177 and 185 |
Refreshments | Café at Gwili Steam Railway |
Public transport | Bus 460 between Carmarthen and Cardigan stops at the Bronwydd Arms. Regular services Mon–Sat, none Sun. |
This is a very pleasant walk through an area that was once a hive of industrial activity, with woollen mills, iron forges and corn mills scattered along the banks of the river. The contrast between the valley, where river, road and rail all vie for space in its narrow confines and the quiet expanses of the rolling hill country to the west, is very noticeable. The route initially follows a lovely section of the River Gwili, then crosses the track of the Gwili Steam Railway before climbing steadily along grassy lanes and farm tracks to reach the hamlet of Newchurch. The return is along peaceful lanes, tracks and valley footpaths with a chance to visit the lovingly restored Gwili Steam Railway.
From the car park, pass to the right of the village hall towards the River Gwili and go left along a riverside footpath, passing to the right of the cricket ground. This lovely section of footpath above sparkling rapids and stony beaches soon ends at a well placed bench above the river, where it is necessary to turn left over the track bed of the Gwili Steam Railway and along the left edge of two fields. At a gate continue ahead, passing to the left of a house to reach the A484 and cross to the far side.
Turn right along the footpath for 150 metres, then go left along a narrow no through road that passes to the right of the chapel. The road climbs steadily up the side of the Nant Cwmdwyfran Valley before swinging right around a sharp U-bend towards farm buildings. Immediately after passing through the gateway to the farm, turn left and negotiate a step stile through a wall, immediately left of a gate, and follow the stony track ahead as it climbs between fields, revealing some excellent vistas over the Gwili Valley and towards the Black Mountains.
Although the fields surrounding the Gwili Valley are well drained and very lush, providing excellent grazing for sheep and cattle, the valley itself was regarded as being too steep sided for normal agricultural use, so much of it has been planted with woodland, large tracts of which can still be seen.
Continue along the track to its end in front of Foel-fâch Farm and turn left along a quiet lane, eventually swinging right to reach a T-junction. Go right then almost immediately left along another lane, passing to the right of the building Ffoslun Uchaf. Follow this short section of lane to another T-junction and here turn left to eventually