FENUGREEK These almost square, hard yellowish-brown seeds are strongly flavored and generally used whole in southern Indian dishes and frequently in pickles and fish curries. Fenugreek leaves are eaten as a vegetable and because of their rather bitter taste, are combined with other greens or potatoes. Substitute with spinach if fenugreek leaves are not available. The dried leaves (methi) are sometimes used as a seasoning.
FISH SAUCE The distinctive nam pla, made from salted, fermented fish or prawns, is used in Thai and Vietnamese marinades, dressings and dipping sauces. Good quality nam pla is golden-brown in color and has a salty, pungent flavor.
FIVE-SPICE POWDER A Chinese spice combination of star anise, Sichuan peppercorns, fennel, cloves and cinnamon. A very strong seasoning, so use in small amounts.
GALANGAL A member of the ginger family, used in Thai, Malay and Nonya dishes. Peel off the tough skin before pounding or slicing. The young, pinkish galangal is the most tender and imparts the best flavor. Slices of dried galangal (sometimes sold under the Indonesian name, laos) must be soaked in boiling water for about 30 minutes until soft before use. Jars of tender, sliced galangal packed in water from Thailand make an adequate substitute for the fresh root. As a last resort, use the powdered form (1 teaspoon = 2.5 cm/1 in).
GALAN GAL, LESSER A white, ginger-like rhizome believed to have medicinal properties. Do not confuse with the fragrant greater galangal used in Southeast Asia. Omit if unavailable.
GARAM MASALA An Indian blend of several strongly aromatic spices designed to add flavor and fragrance to meat dishes. Powdered garam masala can be bought from stores specialising in spices. Store in a jar in the freezer.
GARLIC Widely used as a flavoring and for its medicinal qualities. It is often pounded or puréed before use in curries. Garlic cloves are often much smaller in Southeast Asia than in Western countries, so adjust to taste.
GINGELLY OIL A light oil made from unroasted sesame seeds, quite different in flavor from Chinese sesame oil. It adds a distinctive touch to Indian pickles.
GINGER This pale, creamy yellow root is widely used not just to season food but for its medicinal properties. Always scrape the skin off fresh ginger before using, and do not substitute the powdered. Store in a cool, dark place. To make ginger juice, finely grate about 8 cm (3 in) fresh ginger. Squeeze it little by little in a garlic press, or wrap in cheesecloth and squeeze to extract the juice. Depending on the age of the ginger (young ginger is far more juicy), you will obtain 1-2 tablespoons of juice. Pickled ginger (benishoga or gari), sometimes dyed red, is sold in jars and widely used as a garnish. Slender pink young ginger shoots are also pickled and sold in jars.
GINSENG A highly prized medicinal root, sometimes used in cooking. Available from Chinese medicine shops.
GREEN PEPPER, JAPANESE Tiny slender green peppers which have none of the spiciness of green chilies. Eight japanese peppers are the equivalent of a green capsicum. The latter is closer in taste to Japanese peppers and makes a better substitute than seeded green chilies.
HOISIN SAUCE A sweet sauce made of soya beans, with spicy and garlicky overtones. Used to season meat and served as a dipping sauce. Refrigerate the jar after opening.
HORSERADISH See WASABI
IKAN BILIS See ANCHOVIES, DRIED
JACKFRUIT A large, green fruit with a tough, knobbly skin. The segmented flesh is sweet and perfumed when ripe. In Vietnam, young jackfruit, which is whitish in color, is used as a vegetable.
JAGGERY A crude sugar popular in Sri Lankan cookery most commonly made from cane sugar and the sap of coconut or palmyrah palms. Southeast Asian palm sugar makes an acceptable substitute, or use soft brown sugar.
JASMINE ESSENCE The heady perfume of fresh jasmine flowers, soaked overnight in water, adds a unique fragrance to many Thai desserts and cakes. Substitute bottled jasmine essence.
KAFFIR LIME Also known as fragrant lime, this citrus fruit has intensely fragrant skin but virtually no juice. The grated skin or rind is added to food, while the fragrant leaves are used whole in soups and curries, or shredded finely and added to salads. Round yellow-skinned limes slightly larger than a golf ball (jeruk nipis) and small, dark green limes (jeruk limau) are used in Indonesia and Malaysia for their juice. Use lemons if limes are unavailable.
KALE Known also as gai Ian, this vegetable is enjoyed for its firm texture and emphatic flavor. Only the leaves and tender portions of the stems are eaten. Peel and halve lengthwise if they are thick. Broccoli stems are a good substitute.
KANGKONG See WATER CONVOLVULUS.
KELP See SEAWEED
KENARI A soft, oily nut found in Maluku; the almond is the closest substitute.
KENCUR Kaemferia galanga is sometimes incorrectly known as lesser galangal; the correct English name is zedoary. Kencur has a unique, camphor-like flavor, so use sparingly. Wash and scrape off the skin before using. Dried sliced kencur (sometimes spelled kentjoer) or kencur powder are substitutes. Soak dried slices in boiling water for 30 minutes; use ½-1 teaspoon of powder for 2.5 cm (1 in) fresh root.
KINOME Their refreshing, minty taste makes the leaves of the prickly ash a popular garnish. Available in Japanese stores, they will keep refrigerated for about 1 week, or use watercress.
KRACHAI This rhizome, sometimes referred to as "lesser ginger", looks like a bunch of yellowish-brown fingers. Enjoyed for its mild flavor and crunchy texture. Dried krachai is a poor substitute; omit if the fresh is unavailable.
KRUPUK Also known as prawn crackers, these dried wafers made from tapioca flour, prawns or fish are a popular snack and garnish. Dry thoroughly and deep-fry in oil until they puff up and become crisp.
LADIES' FINGERS See OKRA.
LAKSA LEAF See DAUN KESUM
LEMONGRASS A lemon-scented plant that grows in clumps. Use only the bottom 2-4 in (5-10 cm) portion. If it is to be pounded or blended to a paste, discard the outer leaves and use only the pale, tender part. Or bruise the stem before adding to stews. Also available in fresh, frozen, dried and powdered form. About 1 teaspoon powdered equals one stalk.
LILY BUDS, DRIED The Chinese call these "golden needles" because they are thin and golden in color. They are usually knotted for a neater appearance and added to Chinese and Burmese soups or vegetable dishes. No substitute.
LIME Various types are used. Large limes are about the size of a small egg with a greenish-yellow skin, and have a tart flavor similar to lemons. Small green limes, frequently known as kalamansi, are about the size of a walnut and have a less acidic, more fragrant juice. These are preferred for squeezing over noodle dishes and into sambals. See also KAFFIR LIME.
LOOFAH A gourd with an earthy flavor, often used in Vietnamese soups. Any type of gourd can be substituted.
LOTUS The tumescent root has a delicious crunchy texture and decorative appearance when sliced, making it a popular vegetable and garnish in Japanese and Chinese cooking. Its seeds are used fresh for sweets or dried in stews. Soak dried lotus nuts in boiling water for 1 hour, peel, and poke out the central core with a thin skewer or toothpick. (Canned lotus nuts normally have this core already removed.)
MACE The lacy orange-red covering or aril of the nutmeg seed. Used in spice mixes and garam masala for flavoring sweet and savory dishes. For maximum flavor, grind as required.
MINT Peppermint and spearmint are often used in salads and as flavor accents. See also DAUN KESUM.
MIOGA BUD This pretty pale pink bud with green