Ingredients
Most of the ingredients called for in this book are readily found at Chinese or Asian grocery stores or some supermarkets.
AGAR-AGAR A setting agent derived from seaweed which hardens without refrigeration, used for cakes and desserts. It comes in long strands or in powder form; 1 teaspoon of powder sets 1-1½ cups liquid. To use, sprinkle powdered agar-agar over liquid and bring it gently to a boil, stirring until dissolved.
ANCHOVIES, DRIED Most are usually less than 1 in (2½ cm) long, and used to season many Malaysian and Indonesian dishes. Discard the heads and any black intestinal tract before using. Sometimes sold as "silver fish".
ANNATTO SEEDS The dark reddish-brown seed of the "lipstick plant." commonly used as a coloring agent. The seeds are fried in oil to extract an orange color and discarded. The oil is used for cooking.
ASAFOETIDA A strong-smelling gum derived from a Persian plant believed to aid digestion. Use sparingly.
ASAM GELUGUR, DRIED Slices of a sour fruit (Garcinia atnoviridis) used in place of tamarind pulp in some Malay and Nonya dishes; the latter can be used as a substitute.
EGGPLANT Known also as aubergine or brinjal, this vegetable is much smaller and thinner throughout Asia than its Western counterpart. Japanese eggplants are often no more than about 4-8 in (10-20 cm) long. The Thais also use a rather bitter pea-sized eggplant and the apple variety. Use slender Asian or Japanese eggplants for all recipes in this book-they are less bitter and have a better texture. They do not need salting before use.
BAMBOO SHOOTS Used fresh, vinegared or dried in Asian cookery. Fresh shoots are sweet and crunchy. Peel, slice and boil for about 30 minutes before adding to dishes. Soak and boil dried shoots before use. If using canned bamboo shoots, drain and boil in fresh water for 5 minutes to remove the metallic taste.
BANANA BLOSSOM The flower bud of the banana plant. Slice finely and use as garnish for noodle soups or in salads.
BANANA LEAVES Used primarily for wrapping sweetmeats, sausages, and pates before cooking. The leaves preserve moisture, and impart a mild fragrance to the food.
BASIL Three varieties are used in Thailand. The most common variety. horapa. is fairly similar to European and American sweet basil, and used liberally as a seasoning. "Lemon basil" or manglak is added to soups and salads. Kaprow. sometimes known as "holy basil", is stronger in flavor and has purplish markings. Basil is known as daun selasih or kemangi in Indonesia.
BEAN CURD Widely used in Thai. Chinese. Malaysian, and Japanese cuisines. The most common variety is called "cotton" or momen tofu. Use this unless otherwise specified. "Cotton" bean curd is generally sold packed in water in containers and is firmer and easier to handle than fine-textured "silken" bean curd, which is often available in plastic trays or rolls (cut with a sharp knife while still in the plastic so it keeps its shape).
Deep-fried bean curd or aburage is available in plastic bags and should be rinsed in boiling water to remove excess oil before using. A grilled beancurd (yakidofu). which has a speckled brown surface, is also sold in plastic bags. Small cubes of dried deep-fried bean curd are added to slow-cooked dishes and some soups. Fermented bean curd (nam yee), sold in jars and either red or white in color, is used in small amounts as a seasoning in Chinese dishes.
BEAN CURD SKIN The skin that forms on top of soybean milk when it is brought to a simmer, skimmed off and dried. Reconstitute the sheets in warm water before using as a wrapper or in braises. The stuffed skins can be deep-fried, simmered or sauteed.
BEANSPROUTS Sprouted green mung peas are eaten blanched in some salads and soups, or quickly stir-fried as a vegetable. Pinch off the straggly tails just before use if desired.
BELIMBING See CARAMBOLA
BENITADE Decorative maroon-colored sprouts with a slight peppery taste. A popular Japanese garnish. Substitute with alfalfa sprouts or very finely shredded red cabbage.
BESAN Flour made from Bengal gram or channa dal, sometimes referred to as gram flour. Used to make a batter for vegetables or fish, or to thicken and add flavor to Indian dishes.
BITTER GOURD A firm gourd that looks like a fat, knobbly, green cucumber. It has a crisp texture and a strong, bitter flavor. Remove the seeds and inner membrane before cooking. Slice thinly if using in salads, or cut into thick chunks for stuffing.
BLACK BEANS, SALTED Fermented salted black soy beans, a common seasoning for fish and beef. Sold in packets or tins, they can be kept for several months if stored in a covered jar in the fridge. Rinse before use to remove excess salt.
BLACK MOSS FUNGUS A fine, hair-like fungus valued in Chinese cooking. Soak in warm water until pliable before using.
BLACK SAUCE, SWEET A thick, treacle-like sauce used in fresh spring rolls (popiah).
BONITO, DRIED With dried kelp, an essential component of Japanese stock or dashi. Shaved bonito flakes (katsuo-bushi) are now available in plastic packs.
BOXTHORN BERRIES Oval red berries sometimes known as wolf berries, prized by the Chinese for their medicinal properties. Used in soups.
BURDOCK The root of the burdock plant, popular in Japanese cuisine. Scrape off the skin and place into water to stop it discoloring until ready to slice or shred. Fresh and tinned burdock are available from Japanese stores.
CANDLENUT A waxy, cream-colored nut similar in size and shape to a macadamia, which can be used as a substitute (although less expensive almonds or cashews will also do). It is ground and used to add texture and a faint flavor to Malay and Nonya dishes. Do not eat raw. Store in the fridge.
CARAMBOLA A pale-green acidic fruit about 2-3 in (5-8 cm) long that grows in clusters. A relative of the starfruit, carambola is used whole or sliced to give a sour tang to soups, curries, fish dishes and sambals. Sour grapefruit juice or tamarind juice are good substitutes.
CARDAMOM About 15-20 intensely fragrant brown-black seeds are enclosed in a straw-colored pod. Try to buy the whole pod rather than seeds or powder for maximum flavor. Bruise lightly with the back of a cleaver to break the pod. More common are small, greenish or straw-colored pods containing a dozen or so tiny, intensely aromatic black seeds. Large black cardamom pods, which are at least six times the size of the green, are used in some northern Indian dishes.
CAROM Carum ajowan comes from the same family as cumin and parsley. Known as carom or bishop's weed in the West, it is called ajwain in India. The flavor is similar to caraway with overtones of thyme.
CATERPILLAR FUNGUS Neither a caterpillar nor a fungus, these dried pods (Cordyceps sinensis) are used in Chinese dishes for their medicinal value.
CELERY The celery used in Asia is much smaller than the Western variety, with slender stems and particularly pungent leaves. Often known as "Chinese celery" and used as a herb rather than vegetable, it is added to soups, rice dishes and stir-fries. Substitute