Pork Fat This is a common cooking ingredient. The flavor elements it contributes and the texture it creates is unmatched. Thais like to deep-fry, pan-fry, or stir-fry in rendered pork fat. You can buy what is labeled as lard—a somewhat neutral flavored pork fat. It does have more flavor and a thicker mouth feel than vegetable oil and, for some stir-fries, I like this.
Jasmine Rice Uniquely aromatic rice naturally contains aromatic compound called 2-Acetyl-1-pyrroline. Commonly called steamed rice by mistake it is cooked by covering with water and bringing it to a boil. Jasmine rice that’s grown in Thailand is government authorized to be labeled as Thai Ho Mali, it is quite special. This species, however, is grown around the globe, even in California, with great results.
Sticky Rice A long grain rice packed with a unique starch structure that gives the cooked rice a firm and elastic texture. A staple of northern Thailand, usually soaked then steamed. Used in sweets, toasted and ground as a flavorful thickener and used to scoop up sauce and salads. Look for the stark long-grain white rice often labeled as glutinous or sweet rice. There is no true substitute, regular long grain rice can be served as a side instead. Store at room temperature, sealed air tight—almost indefinitely.
Salt In the USA, most cooks and chefs prefer kosher salt. Most sea salt is also not overly processed, and available globally, so that is another salt you can use. The size of the grain actually can make a significant difference in measuring salt. Since salt is not used too much in the book (sodium is usually added in the form of fish sauce, soy sauce, or ready-made condiments) and in small amount it won’t make much of a difference. Start with less and add more as needed. If you only have iodized fine table salt reduce the amount by half, taste, and adjust from there.
Soy Sauce Dried soy beans are soaked, cooked, and inoculated with special mold and fermented for months, during this process the proteins are naturally broken down to free glutamate and increase in savory flavor—the same thing that happens with fish sauce. Soy sauce is used less frequently than fish sauce but similarly. Used to add a depth of flavor by adding sodium and its unique taste. Each soy sauce, like wine, can be made from the same primary ingredient, yet can taste drastically different. Look for naturally “brewed,” actually a term used to designate that this was fermented during an extended aging process giving it a rich flavor and dark color. Do not buy brands that contain caramel coloring (except for dark soy sauce where caramel coloring is acceptable).
Sriracha Sauce Invented in its namesake town of Sriracha, Thailand, a southern seaport village just North of Pattaya, this traditionally fermented chili sauce was originally a table condiment, but its popularity has made it into the ingredient list of many modern dishes. Mostly chilies, garlic, vinegar, sugar, salt, and vinegar. I have used it as a primary seasoning in salads and noodles. There are many different brands of this beloved condiment each with its own style. Other fine pureed chili sauces from places like Singapore, Malaysia, and Vietnam may work but a taste test is the only real gauge. Once a container is open it keeps in the refrigerator for months.
Star Anise Shaped like an eight-pointed star, hence the name, the flavor of black licorice or fennel. A key ingredient of Chinese five spices. This spice is steeped in aromatic stews and soups as well as ground into a variety of spice blends and pastes. Make sure to remove it before serving a dish (one bite is a definite turn off).
Stocks and Broths Stocks are made primarily of bones while broths include meat. General purpose Asian style stocks are more subtle than their western cousins of the same name because they are not made with the traditional combination of bones, carrot, onion, celery, and aromatics. Usually they just have bones, meat, or shells and a couple of aromatics infused in simmering water. Chicken, pork, shrimp, fish, and beef stocks are also utilized in Thai cuisine. These form the basis of many Thai soups and help add moisture to stir-fried dishes. Canned or boxed broths or stocks can be substituted with decent result. I actually suggest adding some water (up to an equal amount) to create a neutral flavored all-purpose stock. Let taste be your guide. Look for reduced sodium labels as they allow for better control of seasoning. If you make a fresh stock, cool it quickly and store in refrigerator for about a week. It’s best to freeze it for longer storage, up to a few months is fine. Canned or boxed items can be stored at room temperature, once opened, transfer to new container and store in the refrigerator for about a week.
Sweetened Condensed Milk A luxurious milk creation, pearly white and strikingly sweet (45% sugar) it is rich, viscous, and delicious. Created in the late 1800’s by concentrating fresh milk and adding loads of sugar. The not-so-secret, yet ever so magical sweetener calms the intense Thai Iced Coffee (page 114). I find it is also very handy to enrich sweets, such as the Grilled Bananas with Sesame Seeds (page 108). Beware of less expensive cans labeled as “Sweetened Condensed Filled Milk” as they are cut with hydrogenated vegetable fat. Nothing compares or can be substituted. Evaporated milk is used for Thai tea and is similarly concentrated, yet no sugar is added. Once opened, transfer to a new container, cover, and store in the refrigerator for up to a few weeks.
Sweet Soy Sauce Much darker, thicker, and sweeter than regular soy sauce with a flavor similar to salty molasses. Used in meat marinades as a tenderizing flavor enhancer and seasoning element. Some Thai brands are labeled as Thai Sweet Sauce. An acceptable substitute is the thicker Indonesian Kecap Manis.
Tamarind Concentrate Large fruit pods, filled with a deep brown, sticky, tart-n-sweet paste hang from trees. (To make your own paste go to page 25.) The paste is processed into blocks that are sold to be diluted with water to form a pulp. However, for convenience, you can find ready-made concentrates. All recipes in this book can be made with the concentrate. Soups are soured, sauces are balanced, glazes are thickened and drinks are made refreshing with tamarind. Look for ingredient labels with a short ingredient list with tamarind listed first. Although sodium is not listed on the ingredient statement, they can be salty, containing around 3% sodium. The paste can be stored at room temperature, the pre-made concentrate must be stored in refrigerator once opened. The paste lasts for more than 6 months, an open concentrate will last for a month.
Thai Basil (Asian Basil) Probably the most common herb in Thai cooking, it’s easily recognized by its smooth pointed leaves attached to a purple stem. The flavor is similar to common basil with scents of anise and cinnamon. It is used as a raw garnish as well as added at the end (in copious amounts) wilting and reserving the color and perfuming the entire dish. Curries, soups and salads all welcome its flavor. The anise-like aroma that these possess is tough to duplicate, if Thai basil can’t be found, simply use equivalent amounts of the common basil. Sometimes I add a small pinch of finely ground star anise or anise. Look for unblemished leaves that are firm and deep green. Fresh herbs are very perishable—heat, physical abuse, and moisture need to be managed. I have found that gently and loosely wrapping the bunch in paper towels then placing in seal bag and storing in the refrigerator keeps them fresh the longest—up to a week.
Thai Curry Pastes Wet spice pastes are created by grinding aromatics, such as fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves, garlic, and shallots. Also roasted and pulverized spices like coriander, cumin, and peppercorns are traditionally pounded in stone mortars with a pestle. Electric powered mechanical devices such as blenders and food processors are now commonly used. Curry pastes are rarely used raw, they are most often fried in coconut oil. Recently I have