Green Papaya Actually an immature, not just unripe papaya, is firm and really not that flavorful, it’s a textural experience and a medium for seasonings. Look for smooth green skins without wrinkles. The surface should be very firm, almost hard. Store loosely covered or in a drawer in the refrigerator.
Kaffir Lime Leaves and Zest This aromatic branch of the citrus family tree is prized mostly for its pungent leaves. The wrinkly fruit has a wonderfully strong scented zest used in spice pastes but the juice of the fruit is almost never used. Leaves are steeped whole in broths and curries, fried quickly to a crisp for snacks or garnish. Look for the uniquely double lobed sturdy leaves that are shiny and dark green on one side and a matte light green on the other. For every 6 lime leaves I use 1 teaspoon lime zest, usually added towards the end of the recipe. Best when fresh, useless when dried. They freeze quite well, make sure to keep them airtight and only pull out those needed for each recipe.
Lemongrass These sturdy slender stalks are an icon for Thai food. It has a crisp citrus aroma that perfumes Thai dishes at all ends of the spectrum from cool salads to fiery hot curries. Most commonly, the bottom 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) are used for infusing, mincing, or slicing very thinly to shorten the tough fibers that run lengthwise. The outer tougher leaves must be stripped away, revealing the aromatic and tender inside. As a substitute I would suggest ½ teaspoon lemon zest with ¼ teaspoon lime zest for each stalk of lemongrass. Better yet, buy frozen already chopped lemongrass or buy fresh stalks when available and freeze them for future use. Keep them, wrapped loosely, in the refrigerator for a week or two.
Limes Limes and all citrus are indigenous to the Asian continent. There are a variety of limes used in Thai cuisine including the largest Persian lime or common lime, small “key” lime, knobby kaffir lime, and the perfumed kalamansi lime. This book only utilizes the most common limes. In Thai cuisine, the juice is commonly used in uncooked recipes for dressing and as a final tableside garnish, the flavor does not hold up well under heat or over time, so juice your limes as you need them. Never buy bottled lime juice. The zest is grated when the aroma of the lime is what you want, the oils contain most of the precious aroma. Look for bright or dark green limes that are firm to the touch without any brown or soft spots. They can be kept room temperature for a few days, but I keep them loosely covered in the refrigerator.
Long Beans (Yard Beans) Heartier than standard green beans these earthy tasting beans are 1–2 feet long (about ½ meter). Snacked on raw as part of a table salad to accompany salads and rice dishes or cooked, these are flavorsome beans. I prefer the deep green variety. The stem end should not be dried out and shriveled. Store covered loosely in the refrigerator.
Mint (Peppermint) Mint’s unique ability to produce a refreshing cooling sensation gives it a star role in the Southeast Asia. It may pack a wallop of flavor yet extensive exposure to heat kills its flavor so it’s usually eaten raw or added at the very last moment. There are two primary varieties: peppermint (more commonly used), which has wrinkled leaves and hard woody stems; while spearmint has smooth darker green leaves and soft edible stems and has a more assertive bite—same as Thai basil.
Noodles, Dried Flat Rice Probably the most popular noodle in Thailand, these noodles come in many sizes, as thin as ¹⁄8 inch (3 mm) and as wide as ¾ inch
(2 cm). Transform these noodles into soups and stir-fried dishes. Soak for
30 minutes in room temperature water before a quick boil. More often than not dried noodles will be labeled with the Vietnamese “Banh Pho.” Store at room temperature, sealed air tight—almost indefinitely.
Dried Rice Vermicelli Noodles (Rice Sticks) The thinnest of all rice noodles, they have a subtle flavor and delicate texture. In Thailand there is one special variety known as Khanom Jin—the batter is slightly fermented before making noodles. Salads, noodle bowls, soups, and stir-fried dishes all welcome these firm threads that act as flavor carriers. I prefer to soak them in water first, then boiled to cook for the best texture. I look for ingredient statements that list only rice and water (maybe salt). Recently some manufacturers have been adding tapioca starch, making them more durable but creating a different texture.
Fresh Flat Rice Noodles The Chinese invented the technique of making a thin batter of ground rice or rice flour batter that’s steamed into sheets then cut into various widths. Once refrigerated they get brittle, so buy them, take them home, and pull into individual noodles, then gather up and refrigerate in portions. They are often sold on a shelf in a non-refrigerated section of the market. Look for markets that have daily deliveries of these supple ribbons. It’s okay to buy at room temperature and use that same day, then keep in the refrigerator for up to a week, they are vastly superior on the first day.
Dried Bean Thread Noodles (Cellophane Noodles, Glass Noodles) Skinny, transparent noodles made from the starch of mung beans. Little flavor to speak of but with a resilient texture. They are used in salads, soups, and spring rolls. Simply cooked by covering dried noodles in boiling water for about 5 minutes and then draining.
Oyster Sauce This Asian food essential was invented in China in 1888 by Lee Kum Kee, in one of history’s finest accidents. A pot of oyster stew was forgotten, it boiled down into this enchantingly heady nectar. Now used across Asia, this culinary powerhouse is deep brown with hues of gold and has a potent salty, slightly sweet, seafood flavor. Flavor from oyster extract, slightly sweet with sugar, seasoned with salt, and thickened with starch, it has the unique ability to not only season, but tenderize marinated meats and seafood. It also can give a distinctive sheen to sauces and glazed items. The more oyster extractives the better—higher priced bottles are often an indication of this desirable quality trait. For those with diets that exclude oysters, look for “vegetarian oyster or stir-fry sauce” that can be used as a substitute, using equal amounts.
Pandanus leaves Long slender deep green leaves contain the most charming aroma due to the natural presence of 2-Acetyl-1-pyrroline. Any green sweet in Thailand is bound to be colored and aromatically infused with this special herb. There is no substitute, vanilla added to a recipe that calls for pandanus may taste good but will not taste Thai. I buy fresh when it’s available, and freeze some when I get home or I buy frozen leaves. Always trim the lighter colored bottom portion (it tastes like dirt). Keep fresh, wrapped tightly in the refrigerator for a few days, frozen they keep for months.
Peppercorns True peppercorns created the primary spicy sensation across Asia before chilies arrived in the 15th century. The same plant is processed into three colors: green peppercorns are picked immature and usually pickled; black are produced by fermenting and drying green ones; white are soaked, husked, and sun dried. Whole black pepper-corns can be used to infuse; coarsely crushed they add bursts of fiery bites; white pepper is generally ground finest, added to spice pastes or added at the very end of cooking. Green peppercorns are usually used whole. Thai cooks use each colored peppercorn separately and don’t buy mixtures. Green ones are rarely found fresh outside of Asia. I buy them brined in salted water (avoid vinegar). Black and white are both sold dried. Look for plump, somewhat evenly colored white and evenly shaped shriveled black peppercorns.
Peanuts (Groundnuts) An icon for Southeast Asian cuisine, peanuts are included on all parts of the menu. Creamy peanut sauce, pan-roasted, crushed, and tossed into noodles or transformed