There are a few key differences between wood and metal screws. Wood screws have widely spaced, medium-depth threads, whereas sheet-metal screws have sharper threads that are deeper and closer together. Although you can use a sheet-metal screw in wood (nonstructural instances, such as a light-switch plate or light mount), using a wood screw in sheet metal does not produce a secure or flush fit.
Another important screw used in vintage campers is the oval-head style. These come in both Phillips and slotted heads and were commonly used on trim and hardware; the soft dome curve gives interiors a welcoming, less industrial feel and does not snag fabric or potentially cut skin.
During disassembly, noting the sizes and styles of the screws used is paramount when it comes time to reassemble, if you wish to retain the vintage feel and construction techniques of your restoration. Even if your goal is a custom camper, paying attention to screw style and proper usage is important to building something that’s special and professional.
One of the most common fasteners used in vintage campers are screws and, as expected, there are many varieties. In a Show Camper, using the correct screw for the job is the difference between an award winner and a dud. Phillips-head wood screws, wood screws, pan-head sheet-metal screws, self-tapping hex screws and oval-head screws are seen here.
Vintage campers used specific rivets for various reasons, such as fasteners with a helical ridge. While blind rivets were available at the time, the required additional steps to assemble and associated higher cost made them less common than buck rivets or solid rivets. This, however, changed when pneumatic blind riveters and preassembled blind rivets became the preferred fastening system in the 1970s.
At the left is an air hammer and bucking bar used to set solid rivets (the small pieces seen to the right of the bucking bar). In the center, a fan tool helps mark evenly spaced holes quickly. Above that are hand and pneumatic pop-rivet tools. Under the fan tool are some 1/8- (copper) and 5/32-inch (black) Cleco tools. Next to them are assorted pop rivets and a shaving tool for shaping Olympic rivets. On the far right is a hand setter for solid rivets.
Here, you can see solid rivets on the endcap and pop rivets on the lower panel. This 1960s Airstream was built at a time when pop rivets were gaining popularity and buck rivets were on their way out (for interior skin). The endcaps were produced separately outside the camper then mounted inside, whereas pop rivets were used to apply the skin. When performing a proper restoration, retaining this detail is crucial.
Many components such as exterior and interior walls and endcaps on vintage campers were assembled using solid rivets, which require access to both sides of the piece. This often necessitates that two people perform the task. Considering the labor of two workers, it starts to make sense why riveted campers cost more than a comparable “canned ham.”
If you plan to build a custom interior, you need to carefully consider where to place heavy components such as water tanks, battery banks, and the galley to prevent listing, improper tongue weight, and trailer sway when in tow.
When disassembling a riveted camper, be sure to note where the rivets (and which style) are used and where sheet-metal screws are used (often where a bucking bar cannot be reached) because reassembly uses these same fasteners.
In some cases, you might not be able to use a solid rivet, but a blind rivet among a line of polished buck rivets sticks out like a polished spartan in a sea of canned hams. An Olympic rivet (a modified Oscar rivet) is a great alternative. Olympic rivets have a special mandrel designed to break and leave a nub that you can shave. The end result is a solid-looking head. Of course, these require a fairly expensive shaving tool. If you’re only installing a few, a steady hand and dremel can be used to shave and polish the head, but the results may be less than ideal.
Design Modifications
It’s likely that you may want to change a few things in your camper layout. You may be tackling a restoration that’s been previously modified, or you purchased a gutted shell and there’s nothing to use as a pattern. Before you start designing a new layout for your camper, keep in mind it’s not as easy as modifying a floor plan for a house.
A camper is a dynamic thing, as opposed to a house that is static. Weight distribution is very important for sway control and safety when towing. An improperly weighted trailer is very dangerous and can lead to catastrophic failure.
Ideally, the trailer should have a hitch weight of about 10 to 15 percent of the trailer’s weight. If you place the water tank in back, where the gray and black tanks also reside, you could easily throw off the trailer balance. If the galley is located on the curbside and you place the water tank and batteries there, too, your trailer is going to list to the curbside. Also take into consideration the weight of cabinets, water tanks, and batteries when adjusting the layout of your camper to ensure safety when in tow.
Also, in some instances, cabinetry can add structural support to the roof. If you plan to remove a cabinet for a more spacious feel, you could be compromising the load bearing of the camper’s roof, which is less than ideal for traveling interstates, and even worse if you live in the snowbelt. The main components of a camper interior are the galley, beds, dinette, and bath.
Planning Your Work Space
You may have shop space, but you still need storage space. A camper restoration is like a Matryoshka, a Russian nesting doll. Once you start disassembly, the number of parts adds up quickly. The best plan of attack is to have shelving ready for components. The exterior disassembly includes large aluminum panels, windows, HVAC pieces, and the door.
Interior components include appliances such as the stove, ice chest or fridge, and sink. Also a large heater and upholstery will be pulled from the camper. Even the chassis components, such as the coupler, jacks, brakes, and wheels, take up space during the restoration. They all need to be considered when planning your restoration.
Also take into consideration the space needed for inventory when it’s time to start building. You need to store sheets of plywood, metal, and countertop linoleum. And you need space for other assorted materials, such as flooring.
A good tip is to keep sawhorses handy that allow you to set up additional table space when you need to work on larger pieces. They can be set up easily and taken down quickly to keep the shop organized and efficient.
CHAPTER 2
DISASSEMBLY
The least pleasant part of camper restoration is the teardown, but it’s one of the most important to document thoroughly. If you haven’t used a camera recently, it’s a good idea to brush up on some basics. You can find many online tutorials or community education courses to help ensure you’re detailing the restoration process with quality images. You will need to reference them many times throughout the rebuild. In addition, photos can be an important asset for potential resale.
Starting with the dinette, I worked my way clockwise around the Cruisette during demo. Here, you can see tiles that were hidden under a carpet. More noteworthy, however, is the damaged and rotted subfloor. The upper shell attaches directly to this component, and the fact that you can see light shining through is very disconcerting. Typically, rot resides by camper doors, windows, and vents.
Another important tip, which should