Trying to find a unit with endcaps and ornamental body panels in good shape should be a priority. Pretty much anything can be re-created by a metal fabrication specialist, but the cost to do so can easily blow a small budget. With this in mind, dented or creased panels, which are flat, are easier to repair or replace and can be used in your favor when negotiating a price.
As expected of a 60-year-old camper, there are a couple of red flags on this Flying Cloud worth noting. A dented corner panel might jump out, but it’s the least concerning. The extended coupler with suspect fabrication accompanied by a non-original curbside front window proved to be difficult to properly address but not an impossible task if you are resourceful.
This 1960s Tradewind is rough and dirty, much the same as the 1950 Flying Cloud. This is a much better candidate for a smooth restoration because it retains all the original windows, its panels are in great shape, and the chassis, including the coupler, seems to be much straighter. This unit does, however, have split rims, so an axle replacement and new tires and rims should be planned.
The interior finish of some panels in this Cruisette had army-green finishes, indicating that it was from the stock of surplus aluminum sourced by Wally Byam after World War II. When planning on panel replacement, you need to consider the difference between vintage aluminum and new stock. Current aluminum matrixes do not perfectly match vintage aluminum when polished.
Another thing to consider when assessing a candidate for restoration is replacing old aluminum paneling with new paneling. New aluminum isn’t the same as the original because the elements used in manufacturing (and suppliers) have changed since the production of the camper. If you’re going to replace a large curbside panel, the quality of the polish and finish of the new aluminum will not match that of the original pieces.
Although not a deal breaker for a Usable Weekender, the difference will be noticeable to a trained eye. In the case of post–World War II Airstreams, surplus military aluminum was used extensively and can often be identified by army-green finishes.
Missing emblems are another big hassle. The pot-metal dies are most likely long gone for most vintage campers, and finding the correct ones for your restoration will be difficult. These items define the camper, and while not impossible to reproduce or locate, it will be difficult and time-consuming. Try to find a unit with intact, or at least partially intact, branding (i.e., emblems and decals).
Appliances are another important factor. They do wear out and are often replaced with newer models or scrapped altogether. An original range and fridge or ice chest is important to the restoration process. If you can find a unit with factory-specified appliances, a show-quality or respectful restoration will go smoother. Or, it could dictate what kind of restoration path you’re going to take. If you’ve found an already-replaced or updated fridge and stove, you might go modern and skip the vintage appliances in favor of ease of use. Also, many recreation vehicle appliances are shared across manufacturers, which makes a tasteful, period-correct restoration possible.
A vintage camper with original fixtures and hardware is much more valuable than one that has had its originality lost to a mid-life update or do-it-yourself (DIY) hack. For example, if a potential unit’s original tin lights were scrapped in favor of brittle plastic replacements, you should negotiate the price with the consideration of finding period-correct replacements.
Broken glass is usually a nonissue, only an inconvenience, with vintage campers. However, do make sure that all window hardware is still intact when shopping for a restoration candidate. Even more important when searching for a restoration candidate is ensuring that no-longer-available cast-aluminum hardware and stampings are still present.
Finding the correct VIN number is essential to registering a camper. Typically, a stamped plaque is mounted near the entrance door, but these are often lost over time. If this piece is missing, you can sometimes locate the number on the A-frame by the LP tanks, but do not confuse this with a serial number stamped on the coupler, as that’s related to the coupler manufacturer, not the trailer.
Likewise, windows are important. Currently you can service many vintage Hehr windows through vin-tagetrailersupply.com, but not all windows and pieces have replacement seals and hardware available. It’s important that the trailer you pick has intact windows. This doesn’t have to include glass, as that’s often fairly easy to replace. If a window is missing altogether, however, or has been replaced with a department store alternative (such as on the Flying Cloud), finding a correct replacement may be daunting. But not entirely impossible.
If a title is not present, a bill of sale and Department of Transportation Vehicle Identification Number inspection is necessary. It’s best to check with your state’s DMV regulations on titling a unit before you purchase a non-titled camper. Addressing this early prevents major roadblocks and headaches down the road. Also, get the camper registered in your name before any of the restoration process begins. It’s easier to register/title an unrestored unit than a unit you’ve already heavily modified.
Things that Shouldn’t Deter You
It’s a given, unless you’ve stumbled upon a sheltered time capsule, that a potential restoration has already been through many quick fixes and DIY dress-ups by previous owners. Basic camper restoration is undoing those layers of paint, questionable carpentry, mysterious metal fabrication, and liberal applications of caulk and silicone. A true renovation includes ensuring roadworthiness. It’s up to your discretion to guarantee that the chassis is structurally sound, axles are safe, and the body is habitable.
Sometimes, a basket case is a good choice for a project. You can only make it better. This 1960s Tradewind’s interior is gross, to say the least. But with a little (well, actually lots) elbow grease and determination, it’ll be an inviting and rewarding space.
That said, to do it right, taking a camper down to the essentials is often required, regardless of the style of restoration you’re considering. For that reason, sometimes a basket-case example, rather than searching long and hard for a garage queen, is a good choice for a project; you can only make it better. You’ll be undoing decades of quick fixes, so starting with a neglected unit shouldn’t deter you from a potential restoration project.
You want to avoid projects whose price has been inflated by work you’re going to undo. Many vintage campers are advertised as restored or partially restored. Although this might be tempting, the owner could be hiding damage, rather than addressing it; so it might not be worth the higher price. Imagine finding a floor fix that is layering wood over a rotted subfloor or new interior walls hiding old wiring and rodent-infested insulation. If you’re going to restore a camper, you might as well ensure that it’s done to your standards and avoid paying for something that’s already been “restored.”
Another option is a partial or abandoned restoration. However, this means putting pieces back together that someone else disassembled. It’s easier to take something apart and put it back together yourself, rather than guessing.
When searching for a project, things such as a rotted subfloor and water damage are to be expected and are addressed during the restoration. And, as mentioned earlier, broken glass usually isn’t an issue. The important items are a clean title, essential appliances, and original hardware.