A tubing straightener is a must if you purchase the lines in 20-foot rolls. This BrakeQuip version does a more-than-adequate job.
This BrakeQuip fully adjustable tubing bender has an intuitive design. It has a tab for clamping it in a vise.
Your shop wouldn’t be complete without a tubing cutter. Cutting stainless steel is hard on the blade. This BrakeQuip version does a good job.
Spark plug wires have changed over the years, and I have become a believer in purchasing wire kits and cutting them to length with a stripper/crimper such as this Accel version. The new low-ohm wires require a special crimping tool. This is the ticket.
This electric hoist is rated at 880 pounds. With the engine block weighing about half of that, you are good to use it to move the engine from the engine shop to the engine stand.
Selecting Modern Tools
Some of these tools are optional and can be rented from your local auto parts store or tool rental store. For example, the BrakeQuip listings are for making high-quality fuel lines, vacuum advance lines, and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) lines. As expensive as they are, it may not pay to purchase them for onetime use. The harmonic balancer removal tool should be the one listed in the shop manual or equivalent. Common sense and perusing the shop manual will come into play here. Quality tools pay great dividends in the long run. Purchasing cheap tools may mean having to purchase them again. On the other hand, if there is a solution that works and is safe, you can use what you have.
General Cleaning Procedures
Still in inspection mode, the next step is to clean the block, head, and small parts thoroughly. You are looking for cracks in the cast iron, wear points, broken studs, etc. This requires removal of the transmission, bellhousing, flywheel, head, and all attached parts.
Once you spray brake cleaner or engine degreaser on the block, for example, most cracks become apparent. If you find cracks in the engine block, stop. It is time for a new engine block. Due to the expense of engine shop work, it is not a good idea to start with a cracked block. The same is true for the head. Replace and forget about it.
I use this to raise the engine to a cleaning height, or to place it on a cart, or to install it on the engine stand. Mounted in the right place, you can use it for installing the engine if you choose.
A spray can of engine degreaser, toothbrush, scraper, and large wire brush go a long way toward a clean engine. Be sure to chase the threads on all areas of the block and head while you are at it.
The cardinal rule of vehicle/engine restoration is to label everything! Get a bunch of resealable bags, such as from Ziploc, and a Sharpie and be very meticulous about labeling. This is crucial! You need to know exactly where a bolt came from, what position it was in, etc. It’s not as necessary for valve cover screws and that sort of thing, but it’s crucial for head bolts or anything having to do with the engine, such as lifters and pushrods.
On the bellhousing, you may be able to get away with an expert cast-iron repair, but not on the head or engine. This is because of the deep heat cycles that the engine and head are exposed to. Later in this process, you will have the engine shop do a Magnaflux test on the head and block to ensure there are no cracks prior to machine work.
Cleaning Small Parts
Back in the day, you just filled a coffee can with gasoline, used a small wire brush, and called it a day. These days there are safer and more environmentally friendly chemicals. Options range from lacquer thinner, white vinegar, kerosene, and water with baking soda to parts washer solvent. Soak parts overnight for best results.
In addition, an important discovery concerns air nozzles for your compressor. You have regular, everyday air nozzles used to get rid of unwanted residue. These are generally safety nozzles. They have a center opening for discharge, but they also have two holes on each side of the nozzle. This is to prevent injury to you from too much pressure against the skin. It also prevents the nozzle from working at 100 percent. The closer you get to the work, the more air is vented off to the outside holes.
You can purchase nonventing air nozzles that nearly double the performance characteristics of the nozzle. This is for removing all the sand, residue, or whatever out of your work.
Always wear appropriate safety gear and never point any nozzle at your skin. You need to be careful with this new option, but it’s worth mentioning because it is the difference between clean engine parts and clean engine parts.
The 3½ Gallon Benchtop Small Parts Washer is a handy tool to have around. I retrofitted a Little Giant 1-YS submersible pump for this system that handles kerosene without damage to the pump. It wasn’t a difficult conversion, and it has lasted several years so far.
For this build, I used a small parts washer with kerosene as the washing agent. Kerosene, a little pump pressure, and a wire brush can really do the job. To get into hard-to-reach places, a spray can of engine degreaser (with a straw) helps break everything free.
Finally, I like to blow off everything with compressed air to ensure there is nothing hiding.
Cleaning Large Parts
If you have access to a pressure washer, clean the engine block, head, oil pan, etc., thoroughly. Or, you can do it the old-fashioned way with a scraper, a wire brush, and some engine degreaser.
You want to knock off most of the dirt before taking these parts to the engine shop because their procedure takes care of most of the final cleaning. Remember, the nicer you clean the engine, the better the paint will look, and you can sleep at night knowing your engine was done right.
Metal Blasting
Bead blast at 40 psi for the sheet metal parts. This includes the oil pan, valve cover, timing gear cover, etc. I have found through several rebuilds that doing this reveals cracks and poorly done fixes so you can address those parts. The oil pan is particularly subject to this phenomenon.
People have been known to braze holes shut or put excessive Bondo over holes, etc. I want to see exactly what is happening. Any way you can get down to the bare metal is good. If using the blasting method, be sure to clean all residue out of every orifice prior to reassembly. A good document on media blasting can be found at devestechnet.com/Home/Sandblasting.
The engine block can be grimy with caked-on dirt that is difficult to remove. Use a pressure washer if you have one, or do what I do and use an old-fashioned garden hose and a lot of elbow grease.
CHAPTER 3