You don’t need anything this fancy, but the roll-cart on the right contains a battery, a set of gauges, a fuel delivery system, and a safety switch for rolling up to any project and providing the necessary power. See devestechnet.com/Home/StartKartPlans for the plans to make your own version.
There are many tools required for this job. As I address each system, I will add to it. One important tool for this job is the shop manual for the year of your engine. Remember, the shop manual for your vehicle may be different from the one for the engine if the engine has been replaced. You can purchase a copy of the shop manual from many sources.
A shop manual is the authority on tolerances, procedures, and methods. However, it is outdated and many of the tools represented in it are either hard or impossible to find. I use modern equivalents. ■
There are many tools required for this job. As I address each system, I will add to it. One important tool for this job is the shop manual for the year of your engine. Remember, the shop manual for your vehicle may be different from the one for the engine if the engine has been replaced. You can purchase a copy of the shop manual from many sources.
Tools List
• Three-gallon parts washer (or equivalent)
• Miscellaneous scrapers, brushes, Scotch-Brite pads, etc.
• 3/8- and 1/2-inch socket and open-end wrenches to 3/4 inch
• Harmonic balancer puller
• Miscellaneous screwdrivers and pliers
• Cylinder ridge reamer
• Piston ring pliers
• Shop press (for cam gear removal)
• Valve spring compressor
• Vernier calipers
• Steel number/letter stamping set
• Piston ring compressor
• 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench
• 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench
• Foldable engine hoist
• Foldable engine stand
• Feeler gauge set
• Flare tool kit
• Tube straightener
• Adjustable tube bender
• Tube cutter
• Spark plug stripper/crimper
• Electric hoist (optional)
• Electric/fuel provision
Be sure the pump is rated for petroleum-based caustic chemicals, such as kerosene, if that is what you have planned for cleaning. Most are not. I have found it necessary to replace my pump with one that is properly rated.
This is the correct tool for removal of the harmonic balancer on a Stovebolt. You attach this puller to two threaded holes on the balancer.
This tool is designed to remove the carbon buildup or ridge that is present on top of the cylinder walls that restrict the ability to remove the pistons.
This simple tool allows you to control the spread of the piston rings during installation. I use it because it helps prevent scratches on the piston and its action evenly spreads the stress.
I prefer the 20-ton model because it can be used for removal of the cam gear, U-joints, and other press-fit items. A Swag Offroad attachment works great for bending metal, too.
This model is barely long enough to reach, but it gets the job done. Be sure to center the shaft so the tool does not slip.
This is a handy tool to have around the shop for measuring pushrod diameters, bolt sizes, etc. It is as old as I am. The ones you get these days have digital readouts and can measure in standard or metric.
This is the proper 1/8-inch letter size that is good for marking piston rods, etc. As with most tools that I use intermittently, it comes from Harbor Freight.
This ring compressor wraps around the piston and serves as a guide and compresses the rings in place for proper piston replacement. Don’t forget to spread oil inside the compressor prior to starting.
It is not necessary to purchase an expensive set of torque wrenches. These are obtainable for around $20 each. You need 3/8- and 1/2-inch-drive sizes for this job.
The 1/2-inch drive is for the head bolts and heavier-duty items on the engine. Be sure to set it properly so you don’t break bolts off by accident.
The foldable engine hoist, commonly referred to as a cherry picker, is a great way to move your engine in and out of the vehicle and around the shop.
It is imperative to have a strong and stable engine stand for this extra-long 6-cylinder engine. The one I recommend is a 2,000-pound model. If you primarily work on 6-cylinders, make yourself a head like this one.
A good feeler gauge set that has at least .005 through .045 gauges is a must for this sort of work.
BrakeQuip makes a robust kit for flaring stainless steel or any other grade fuel/brake/vacuum lines that eliminate slippage.