6 pounds chicken necks and backs
METHOD
– Cover chicken with cold water in a large 6-quart soup pot.
– Heat water to boiling.
– Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 4 to 6 hours or more (I usually simmer the broth all night).
– Drain broth through a sieve and capture it in a large bowl.
– Cool for about 30 minutes, then cover the broth with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator.
– Remove layer of fat. (See Note facing page.)
– Ladle broth into freezer containers, label, and freeze. Use as needed.
NOTE: This broth is made without salt, allowing for a neutral flavor for the most versatility in cooking. I add salt and other seasonings to the broth, depending on the requirements of the dish.
FOOD SOURCE: Fish King sells more than just fish—chicken parts, too!
PANTRY SUPERCHARGERS
Experienced cooks are organized. This not only means they collect and measure ingredients for a dish before beginning to cook, it also means taking a bit of time to invest in making what I call pantry superchargers. These are homemade ingredients that add much to the flavor of a dish without a great deal of work. These pantry superchargers have a reasonable shelf or refrigerator life, so they are available as an addition or substitution for a great many dishes. I have included some suggestions for their use throughout the cookbook. See Try This notes, but don’t hesitate to experiment on your own.
CLARIFIED BUTTER
To clarify butter, place 1 pound of good-quality unsalted butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Cook over low heat until the butter is melted. It will separate into a bright yellow liquid and white foam. Remove from heat. With a large spoon, carefully remove the foam and discard. Pour the bright yellow liquid into a storage jar and use whenever you are cooking with butter. If you want to be thorough, pour the liquid through a fine sieve lined with several layers of cheesecloth. Store in the refrigerator. Clarified butter does not smoke or burn nearly as easily as untreated butter. It is also called ghee and is a consistent ingredient in Indian cooking.
FOOD SOURCE: Armen Market in Pasadena sells solid blocks of Challenge Butter called “chef’s cut” at a very reasonable price, usually less than four dollars a pound. I don’t see any reason to pay extra for wrapped sections of butter.
YOGURT CHEESE AND RICOTTA CHEESE SPREADS
Yogurt Cheese and Ricotta Cheese Spreads make a great foundation for lowfat cheese spreads. Just add your favorite seasonings, such as fresh herbs with garlic or spicy roasted chiles.
YOGURT CHEESE
Makes 2 cups
INGREDIENTS
2 cups lowfat or full-fat plain yogurt or Greek yogurt
Handful delicately flavored herbs, minced (chives, mint, basil, tarragon—you choose) Up to 1 tablespoon kosher salt, to taste
METHOD
– Pour yogurt into a cheesecloth-draped colander or sieve that is sitting in a large bowl. If using Greek yogurt, skip this step and go straight to the herbs and salt.
– Place in refrigerator overnight. Whey (the liquid) will separate from curds (the solid).
– Add the herbs to the yogurt and stir until just combined.
– Add salt sparingly and taste after each addition. Store in the refrigerator, in a covered jar, up to 3 weeks.
RICOTTA CHEESE SPREAD
Great on Crostini (see page 61)
Makes 2 cups
INGREDIENTS
About 2 cups good-quality whole-milk ricotta cheese from an Italian deli
3 to 4 tablespoons minced fresh herbs, such as flat-leaf parsley, basil, chives, and thyme
Kosher salt, to taste
METHOD
– Mix together ricotta cheese and herbs. Add salt sparingly, tasting after each addition.
– Store in the refrigerator, in a covered jar, up to 1 week.
FOOD SOURCES: Cookbook, Eagle Rock Italian Bakery and Deli, Roma Italian Deli and Grocery.
CRÈME FRAÎCHE
This is an ingredient you will want to have around. It is easy to make, delicious, and much less expensive than the purchased version. I use it on nearly everything that tastes better with a creamy tang; it is yummier than store-bought sour cream, as its texture and flavor are more delicate.
Makes 2 cups
INGREDIENTS
2 cups heavy cream (avoid the ultra-pasteurized version, as it may never thicken and has a lot of the nutritional quality blasted out of it)
½ cup buttermilk
METHOD
– In a tall pitcher or other large container, whisk together cream and buttermilk until incorporated.
– Cover container with a light cloth or a couple layers of cheesecloth and leave at room temperature. The mixture will thicken within 1 to 2 days, depending on the room’s temperature, often only 1.
– Before using, give the crème fraîche a good whisk.
– Store in the refrigerator, covered, up to 2 weeks.
FOOD SOURCES: Great dairy products are becoming more and more available. Try Cookbook or Sprouts Farmers Market for a variety of good dairy choices. Straus Family Creamery is one example of a resource for high-quality milk and cream.
AGHOIAN FAMILY YOGURT
This particular version of yogurt is the simplest I have ever encountered—and it is delicious, too. Jack Aghoian’s family’s yogurt starter began generations ago; you can start yours today! (See Jack’s profile on page 139.) As in most cooking, the ingredients make a difference. Use good-quality whole milk and yogurt for your starter. When purchasing yogurt for your first batch, avoid yogurt with added ingredients, and avoid ultra-pasteurized milk, as the high-heat process can kill some of the enzymes that create yogurt and can affect the milk’s nutrients as well.
Makes 2 quarts
INGREDIENTS
2 quarts whole pasteurized milk
2 to 3 tablespoons whole-milk plain yogurt (to be used as a starter)
METHOD
– Heat milk in a generous-size, heavy-bottomed cooking pot over low heat until frothy. Continue cooking until the milk “rises.” Do not let the milk boil. Milk temperature will be about 180°.
– Remove the steamed milk from heat and allow it to cool to 115° to 120°. One way to cool the milk a bit more quickly is to pour it into a bowl. Cooling takes longer than you might expect.
– In a small bowl, combine yogurt with 1 cup warmed milk to equalize the temperature.
– Add yogurt mixture to remaining warm milk and stir until incorporated.
– Cover the