– Store Negi Oil, covered, in the refrigerator, for use as needed. It will last up to 2 weeks.
MINH’S MAKRUT COMPOUND BUTTER
Makes an 8-ounce roll or a small bowl
INGREDIENTS
⅓ cup cream
Salt to taste (Minh suggests Jacobsen’s salt)
12 to 15 makrut leaves, washed, dried, and sliced into thin strips
Zest of 1 makrut lime (optional, as it is hard to find the limes for purchase)
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
METHOD
– Place cream and 1 or 2 pinches of salt in a 3-quart saucepan. Add the makrut leaves and steep over low heat for 5 to 10 minutes.
– Let mixture cool; remove makrut leaves, reserving a few strips if you don’t have zest.
– Mash cream and a pinch more salt into butter. Add zest, if available, or makrut strips.
– Place butter mixture on an 8-inch square of parchment paper, form into a roll, and twist the ends shut, or press mixture into a small bowl.
– Keep makrut butter in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 2 weeks.
Minh Phan’s “mise en place”: shallots, ginger, lemongrass, habanero chiles, fennel fronds, and amaranth, used for dishes such as Vegan Porridge (see page 130) and her other imaginative recipes.
MINH’S GERANIUM PICKLED BABY ONIONS
These are not only delicious, but absolutely beautiful, resembling tiny rose petals on a plate.
Makes 1 cup
INGREDIENTS
1 cup rice vinegar
¼ cup sugar
Pinch salt
½ cup water
½ cup rose geranium leaves, packed
¼ pound baby red pearl onions, outer skin peeled, and cut in half
METHOD
– In a 3-quart saucepan over high heat, stir rice vinegar, sugar, salt, and ½ cup water until sugar and salt are dissolved.
– Place geranium leaves in the bottom of a clean 16-ounce glass jar.
– Add onions, then pour hot vinegar mixture over onions and geranium leaves.
– The onions will become flavorful within 3 to 4 hours. Keep in the refrigerator, covered, up to 4 weeks.
MINH’S HABANERO AND KUMQUAT SALT
When prepping hot chiles such as habaneros, it is necessary to wear gloves.
Makes 1 cup
INGREDIENTS
10 kumquats, peels only
2 habanero chiles, cut in half, stem and seeds removed, cut into ¼-inch strips
1 cup kosher salt (Minh suggests Jacobsen’s salt)
METHOD
– Place kumquat peels and chiles on a rack set onto a half-sheet baking pan for air circulation. Place the pan in a warm oven overnight.
– Grind the kumquat peels, chiles, and salt in a mortar and pestle or pulse in a food processor to combine.
– Pour salt mixture onto a parchment-lined baking pan; place on your kitchen counter to dry overnight.
– Store salt in a tightly sealed jar. It will keep indefinitely.
FOOD SOURCES: Negi at Thao Family, T & D, and Yasutomi farms, which have booths at the Hollywood Farmers’ Market. Makrut limes and leaves are at most Asian markets, including 168 Market, H Mart, and Marukai Market. If you don’t have access to geranium leaves, any edible floral leaf or floral substitute, such as citrus, marigolds, jasmine, and basil flowers, will work. I rely on neighborhood foraging, with permission.
ROASTED PEPPERS
Preheat oven to 450°.
INGREDIENTS
6 to 8 red, orange, and yellow sweet peppers
3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil to coat the peppers
Good-size pinch kosher salt
METHOD
– Slice off the top of each pepper or twist off stem and remove the pith and seeds by pulling these out through the top of the pepper.
– Cut each pepper into 6 to 8 pieces lengthwise. Combine with olive oil and salt in a large bowl so that peppers are lightly coated (I mix all by hand until combined).
– Spread on parchment-covered half-sheet pan. Place pan on middle rack of oven and roast for 20 to 30 minutes. The peppers’ skin should be wrinkled and brown in some places, and the peppers should have shrunk as their juices released.
– Remove from oven. Tip peppers into a bowl and cover with plastic wrap.
– When they have cooled, remove the skin by pulling it off carefully. Store peppers in a covered jar. These keep up to a week in the refrigerator.
TRY THIS: These peppers make a delicious addition to a sandwich (goat cheese with Roasted Peppers, for example, or on top of an open-face melted-cheese sandwich); to a salad with goat cheese and arugula or other spicy greens; or to pasta with butter and parmesan. They also make an excellent accompaniment to roasted chicken or pork.
You may use the same method for roasting poblano or other chiles with heat. These are great with quesadillas or other Mexican-influenced foods. Wear rubber gloves when peeling hot peppers, as the capsaicin oil in these peppers can burn your skin, eyes, and anywhere you touch.
FOOD SOURCES: I often rely on Armenian or Mexican markets. The peppers are gorgeous, fresh, and of a variety rarely seen. Don’t be afraid to ask a friendly store clerk or shopper about heat level and use. I have learned a lot from these folk. Armen Market, Super King Markets, and Vallarta Supermarkets are all great places for peppers and for produce in general.
TAKA’S PICKLES
As you can probably tell, I like pickles. One of my favorites is the Japanese pickle called Tsukemono. This recipe has history, coming from my friend Taka Suzuki’s mother. These are delicious as a light salad on their own or served as a contrast to a rich protein, such as salmon or black cod.
Makes 6 pints
INGREDIENTS
3 pounds Persian cucumbers, cut into spears
6 tablespoons salt
10 cups water, divided
6 cloves garlic, crushed
6 generous slices fresh peeled ginger
6 whole dried red peppers (Tianjin red chiles are a good choice)
1 cup white vinegar
8 tablespoons sugar
METHOD
– Sterilize 6 large-mouth