One thing these grasses do all have in common is their ease of propagation. All of them grow as clump-forming plants and all can be divided up at almost any stage of maturity. The smaller grasses can have their clumps teased apart by hand. Some will need the help of a sharp knife and some with heftier root systems will need the assistance of a strong spade to chop through each section. The propagation of grasses is more down to brute force than expertise, and even novice gardeners are capable of achieving successful results.
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Cyperus alternifolius is a dainty grass, ideal for growing in and around ponds and streams.
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Cortaderia selloana is the famous Pampas Crass familiar to many gardeners.
Apart from the Cyperus grasses, all of the plants described here are fully hardy, capable of coping with temperatures down to -20°C (-4°F). So, almost any gardener can take advantage of their beauty, especially as their hardiness is combined with a robust nature and ability to cope with hostile conditions. Their individual requirements are discussed in each plant entry, but it will be noted that many can cope with exposed and windy conditions, making them good choices for gardens near the coast and for those on open hilltops. This group of plants is far more forgiving than their close relatives, the bamboos.
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Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’ looks and sounds wonderful as the breeze swishes through it.
Grasses are the perfect group of plants for beginners, although experts appreciate their fine qualities too.
Grasses can fit in with many different kinds of planting schemes. The larger grasses look splendid enough planted as single specimens to spice up unexciting borders or to act as a soft backdrop to other plants. The smaller ones will look good anywhere in the garden, but avoid dotting just single specimens around.
The smaller grasses look far better, more noticeable, more effective and more dramatic if they are planted in drifts or large groups. In a small space, five of the same species of plant look a hundred times more natural and pleasing to the eye than one each of five different species, which can give a bitty and undisciplined look to a garden.
The maintenance of most grasses is easy too, providing their individual needs have been catered for, and most are happy with a light annual dressing of blood, fish and bone in early spring. Older clumps can become a bit tatty and tired-looking after a few years. If this happens, they can be rejuvenated quite easily. Many can be hacked back to ground level with a sharp pair of shears in the autumn or early spring. This may sound a drastic thing to do, but you will be rewarded by a vigorous burst of new fresh foliage as soon as the new growing season commences. By the end of the season, a completely new clump will have formed. The remaining bases of the old foliage will, by this time, have dried out and gathered as a brown thatch throughout the bottom of the new leaves. This can be teased out by hand to keep everything looking fresh and tidy.
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Luzula sylvatica ‘Marginata’ has a very forgiving nature, making it a good choice for beginners.
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A pretty little grass for ponds or boggy areas.
For those gardeners who like their plants neat, tidy and compact, this tiny Japanese grass would fit the bill admirably. It reaches no more than about 25cm (10in) in height. It grows in fan-shaped sections, consisting of many individual blades of grass closely packed together. Gradually, these clumps bulk up and spread quite slowly to cover a distance of around 60cm (2ft) across. Each of these sections can be removed at any time of the year and used for propagation.
The grassy leaf blades are vertically striped with green and pale cream. The variegation is pleasantly subtle and, unlike many coloured-leaved plants, is not at all offensive to look at. Mature plants sometimes produce flowers, particularly during very warm weather. These are long and narrow and can be quite difficult to see, as they are the same colour as the cream bits on the foliage.
This plant is ideal for any moist or boggy spot in the garden. It loves moisture so much that it is even quite happy in a shallow pond, and makes a useful aquatic addition to water features and streams. It is fully evergreen and as attractive in winter as it is in summer. As it is very slow-growing, it could be grown in a pot for the first few years of its life, but remembering to water it virtually every day could become too much of a chore. This grass is too small to be grown as a single specimen and needs to be in larger groups for maximum impact.
Full sun will give the best colouring, but light shade is quite acceptable. It will grow in any soil, but rich loam would give the best results. It must always be kept moist – it is almost impossible to overwater. Remove any older leaves as they turn brown. Apart from the odd aphid, this plant is usually trouble-free.
A word of warning: if this plant is being purchased with the intention of planting it near a pond or stream containing fish, check with the nursery as to what compost it has been grown in. Many nurseries mix a nasty chemical called Suscon Green into the soil. This is to kill vine weevils, which can be a real problem for plants grown in pots, but it will also harm other wildlife, so take care to wash the existing soil from the roots and repot the plant into something safer.
Spanish Reed
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The large canes of Arundo donax make a fantastic sound in windy weather.
A huge grass that looks a bit like sugar cane. It can grow to 4m (13ft) tall and has thick canes a good 3cm (1in) in diameter. The long, narrow blue-green leaves can be up to 60cm (2ft) long. It is probably the most dramatic inhabitant of the grass world that can be grown in temperate climates. Its energy goes into producing height, rather than width, and it is quite slow to bulk up enough to form a decent-sized clump. Unless you’re very patient, plant at least three of these grasses together to speed up the effect.
The flowers are pale creamy brown, feathery plumes. They are a lovely bonus to growing this grass, but they seem to appear only on plants in warmer European countries such as Spain or Italy, where they are widespread.
Arundo donax is very hardy and is especially useful in coastal areas. Despite its stature, it can stand up to sea winds extremely well and, in a strong breeze, the leaves whip around the canes making a wonderful noise. It is a good choice for planting as a windbreak in exposed seaside gardens.
A variegated form is often available with pale cream stripes along the leaves. This is less hardy than the straight green form and reaches only 2.2m (7ft) in height. It is even slower to form decent-sized clumps than its green counterpart, and should therefore be planted in more generous groupings.
Plant in rich, moist soil for the fastest growth, although any soil would suffice. It is happy in either sun or shade, but the variegated form prefers more sun to keep