When planting out Polystichum setiferum, make sure there is plenty of room around it to reach its mature size without being crowded. Ferns hate being transplanted and if too many have been placed closely together, plants may have to be thinned out and disposed of. They are unlikely to survive being replanted once their roots have been disturbed.
The usual fern requirements also apply to this species. Lots of moisture without waterlogging is essential. A quiet humid spot in the garden is also preferred, although this fern is quite forgiving of less than ideal conditions, coping reasonably well with the occasional dry spell. Light, peaty soil enriched with leaf mould would be a good planting medium; shelter from strong winds to prevent the tips of the fronds from drying out is also important. Pests and diseases are uncommon, although excess water gathering in the crown could lead to rotting.
Ribbon Fern or Table Fern
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Pteris cretica used to be thought of as a tender plant and was bought mainly for indoor use. but it is tougher than it looks and can tolerate surprisingly low temperatures.
At first sight, this pretty little fern looks more like a miniature bamboo. The fronds are quite flimsy ‘ribbons’ that are a fresh bright green in colour. Its height at maturity won’t exceed much more than 6ocm (2ft). It is a lovely fern to possess and makes a complete contrast to most others.
It can cope with more sun than many other ferns, but still prefers a shady aspect. Too much sunshine, particularly midday sun, would scorch the fronds and the fresh green colour would take on a yellowish tinge. Light shade would be perfect. It can also cope with more wind than many ferns, but a sheltered position would still be best. This fern seems to manage with less water than most too. Keeping the soil constantly moist would give better results, but if it dries out occasionally, no great harm seems to happen to it. Most soil types suit Pteris cretica, but avoid very heavy clay, which makes it hard work for the roots to penetrate, and poor chalky ones, which dry out too quickly. This fern is so forgiving, that once settled in the garden, little fernlettes will appear out of cracks in nearby paving or between the pointing of damp brick walls. If spores blow into such places, they can mature quite happily, living on virtually nothing except the odd shower of rain.
Pteris cretica is another fern that deserves to be planted in large numbers. Groups of this beautiful foliage growing together look very effective. They provide excellent groundcover for planting underneath moisture-loving trees and make a good job of brightening up dark and dull corners of the garden.
Slugs and snails adore the foliage and can completely ruin the appearance of all the fronds. If your garden is prone to these slimy beasts, use a slug repellent regularly throughout spring and summer. If the fronds become too tatty, cut the whole plant back to its base. New croziers will soon grow up to regain the fern’s former glory. The new spring growth is an added attraction – its colour is even more striking, and new fronds are produced in plentiful amounts.
Propagation can be done from spores, but there is an easier method. As the plants mature, they start to form large clumps. Where there is enough material on substantial older plants, bits can be sliced off and separated in the same way as for other clump-forming plants.
Chain Fern
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The luxuriant foliage needs lots of space to display itself.
A magnificent evergreen fern, with massive arching fronds up to 6ft (1.8m) long, which would love a mild, jungly garden to lounge in. Alternatively, it can make a dramatic addition to a steamy bathroom if suspended from the ceiling in a large hanging basket. As Woodwardia radicans needs very little heat, it would also make a fine plant for a cool conservatory.
This fern tolerates higher light levels than many ferns, but still needs to be protected from direct sun. It should never be allowed to dry out and, if grown indoors, appreciates frequent misting to keep the air around it humid. Plant in a sheltered spot. The huge foliage would fare badly in a windy position. An ideal soil mix would be one part peat (or peat substitute) one part loam, one part leaf mould and a handful of silver sand mixed in to help with the drainage. This is fairly easy to provide for indoor use, but for outdoors, any rich, light, moisture-retentive soil would give perfectly good results.
Older specimens planted outside can produce little fernlettes at the end of each mature frond. As they increase in size, they weigh the parent frond down so it touches the ground. In time, the baby fern will be tempted by the compost directly underneath it to send out some roots. Eventually, the new plant will become self-sufficient until it matures enough to repeat the process with another generation. In the wild, they could cover quite a wide area using this method, with lots of ferns all linked together. Presumably, this is what gives us the common name of Chain Fern. Another explanation is that the sori (spore cases) form a pattern like a chain on the backs of the fronds, but that theory is a bit dull for my liking. Fortunately, as many of us would object to having the entire garden covered with giant fronds, the baby plants can be removed at any time and grown on separately.
Very little annual maintenance is needed, apart from removing the occasional older brown frond. Cut these right back into the plant so the cut end isn’t visible, using secateurs. Pests and diseases are rarely a problem, especially if grown outdoors. The most important thing to worry about is the watering. Too much will lead to rotting; too little will cause the fronds to shrivel. Rainwater is preferred, particularly if you live in a hard water area.
Grasses are currently enjoying immense popularity, but few could really be described as architectural because of their poor winter performance, with many of them turning a horrid brown colour as soon as autumn approaches. However, the grasses selected for this chapter are definitely architectural.
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Cyperus papyrus is an essential addition to a large conservatory.
The following grasses are nearly all evergreen, thus creating a year-round presence wherever they are planted. They are all striking in some way, for example, Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’ with its jet-black foliage or Cyperus papyrus with its tall stalks topped with huge fluffy tufts of flowers. And let’s not forget an old favourite, Cortaderia selloana, the lovely Pampas Grass that for years has been snootily ignored but, at last, is enjoying new fame as gardeners once again start to appreciate its stately appearance.
The two non-evergreen grasses featured are here because, despite their lack of winter appeal, the statuesque quality of Arundo donax and the shapely outline of Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’ are just too wonderful to overlook. Their stunning good looks during three quarters of the year are compensation enough to earn their inclusion.
The grasses in this chapter have a wide range of shapes and sizes, from the diminutive Acorus gramineus ‘Variegata’ to the decorous Cortaderia richardii. Their cultural requirements vary hugely too, from the water-loving