Make a cut up from the bottom of the branch or log to meet the small top cut, below center.
The shorter log should fall away easily. With the pressure off the bar, the pinched saw can be lifted out of the kerf, below right.
Recruit a friend with a strong back to fit a pry pole under the problem log.
As your helper lifts the pry pole, carefully remove the saw straight out of the kerf.
Staying clearly away from the pinched saw, make a small top cut down from the top.
Align the bottom cut with the small top cut.
The small, lightweight log will fall away, freeing the saw.
When felling a tree or cutting down a stump, the kerf closes up and pinches the bar in place.
When cutting down the stump shown in Chapter 5, the guide bar became pinched in the kerf.
Shut the saw off. If the guide bar is in far enough to allow it, drive one or two wedges in behind the bar to free the saw.
I placed a wedge in the kerf and tapped it in with an ax. The saw itself is hidden behind the trunk in this photo.
The wedge opened up the kerf enough for me to withdraw the bar, start the saw, and finish the cut.
If your saw becomes pinched while you are making the felling (back) cut, you know that the tree has started leaning the wrong way, and is now in danger of falling the wrong way. Use the pull rope, if you had the foresight to place one in the tree, to correct the lean toward the direction of fall. If no rope is in place, pound wedges into the cut to correct the lean. If you don’t have a rope in place, or wedges at hand, then you must call a professional for help. Keep yourself and everyone else far away, because the tree may fall at any time. You are in a very dangerous situation, without the tools to extricate yourself.
Kickback Guard
I have already mentioned the importance of preventing kickback in this chapter, and I will be mentioning it a number of times throughout this book. And most owner’s manuals will spend pages on it. That is because it is probably going to happen to you. I know of few chainsaw operators who do not have at least one kickback story.
Manufacturers have developed features such as safety chain and bars, chain brakes, and tip guards, but there are still thousands of kickback injuries every year. Kickback is like lightning—it strikes without warning and is faster than human reflexes can react.
A millwright and part-time chainsaw operator who suffered a severe chest wound from a kickback invented the Centurion Safety Guard. His invention took a different approach to the problem in the hope it would spare others from such an injury. The Centurion will not prevent kickback, but it does provide a barrier between the operator and the cutting chain.
The system is remarkably simple, inexpensive, and lightweight. It is based around a solid steel alloy bar attached under the bolts holding the sprocket cover plate. The flat steel bar extends nearly the length of the guide bar and chain, and about two inches above the top of the chain. In the event of a kickback, you would be struck by this metal bar instead of by the chain, thus protecting you from being cut.
The bar is spring-loaded and a hinge allows it to be in its safety position for normal cutting (see here) or locked upright at ninety degrees for undercutting (see here) or to allow cleaning and chain sharpening.
Top cutting with Centurion in safety position.
Undercutting with Centurion in the up position.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Let me leave this safety chapter with a couple of thoughts:
If you are new to using a chainsaw, start small. Cutting a downed tree for firewood (bucking, see Chapter 5 here), or taking the limbs off a small tree that is already down (see Chapter 5 here), would be a good place to start. If you feel you must fell a tree, select a small one. Or better yet, find a short stump left over from a tree someone else has already cut down and use that for practice. You can make all of the same cuts in it; you just will not have the weight of a whole tree to worry about.
Never, ever leave a running chainsaw unattended. Kids, animals, and nosy neighbors are extremely curious.
Do not work alone. Whether it is out in the woods or just in the backyard, have someone with you. But having said that, there are two things both you and your friend should know:
■ He/she should never be too close to you as you work with a chainsaw. Close enough to keep an eye on you, but far enough away to stay out of danger. (When felling a tree, that is two tree lengths away.)
■ Never have your friend hold a piece of wood while you cut it. (For that matter, never hold a piece of wood yourself with one hand and try to cut it using a chainsaw with the other.)
Finally, know when you are out of your league. If the job is too big, or dangerous, (or you are not even sure whether it is too big or dangerous), call in a professional tree service (see Chapter 5, Project 12, here).
Enough said, for now.
Transporting Your Saw
A chainsaw can be dangerous to transport—even when it is not running. Whenever you are carrying your saw to or from a worksite, observe the following rules:
■ Turn off the engine.
■ Engage the chain brake.
■