How can the layman determine the moisture content of the wood he is about to carve? You pretty much cannot tell, unless, of course, you invest in a quality moisture meter—something that is really not necessary. Once you make a few chips across the grain, you will be able to tell if the wood is too dry. Try using a test, or scrap, piece first. This way, if the wood is dry, you can take steps to return the moisture to it before beginning a project. It is also important to note that wood can have good moisture content when you purchase it but can become dry by the time you are ready to carve it.
Chip Tip
Wood with a moisture content of 10 to 12% is ideal for carving. If your wood is too dry, it will not carve as easily or as smoothly.
An Ounce of Prevention
Storing your wood in a desirable manner will save you a good deal of frustration. Personally, I keep my stock of basswood in an unheated garage rather than in the house because a heated house will dry out the wood. Consider your geographic region when you’re deciding where to store your wood. I live in southern Ontario, an area known for relatively high humidity. Those carvers living in drier climates, such as Arizona, would make different choices based on their location.
A few things to keep in mind when storing your wood: o Keep your wood in an unheated garage (or in a place suitable for your geographic region.
• If storing wood indoors, wrap it in airtight plastic or a similar airtight container.
• Keep it wrapped between carving sessions if you’re concerned about the wood drying out.
• Don’t store wood in your basement unless the room is humid and unheated.
• Don’t store wood in your furnace room.
• Avoid storing wood in air-conditioned rooms because they remove moisture.
You may also want to take preventative measures if you’re working on a project that will take more than a day or two to complete. I’ll often return the project to my garage or make sure it is wrapped tightly in plastic between carving sessions, so the wood doesn’t become too dry.
Returning Moisture to Your Wood
If you do find that your wood has lost too much moisture, there is a remedy. Returning moisture to your wood is as simple as building yourself a makeshift humidor and letting nature take its course.
To build a humidor, start by scavenging a cardboard box that is large enough to hold your wood board or project and small enough to fit inside a plastic bag. The large bags used for garbage are ideal.
Next, make a support to suspend your item and to permit airflow completely around it. A simple solution is to drive finishing nails through a thin piece of scrap plywood or similar material, so that the nails protrude enough to support your item (See Figure 1-10 and Figure 1-11.).
Place your suspended item inside the cardboard box, which has had the top flaps removed or opened. Also place a small bowl containing a completely water-soaked sponge inside the box. Leave a small amount of water that the sponge cannot absorb in the bowl. Place the box and its contents inside the large plastic bag and use a twist tie to make an airtight seal.
Within two or three days, the wood will absorb all the moisture necessary and will be ready for carving. You can speed up the process by placing your humidor in direct sunlight, creating a miniature sauna; however, the moisture will not have the opportunity to penetrate as deeply as it would if the humidor were allowed to sit for two or three days.
Keep the large cardboard box handy—it will be useful when we are adding a finish to a project.
Warping Problems
Wood is subject to warping, or cupping, when it dries more quickly or absorbs moisture more quickly on one side or the other, especially if it’s unsealed or unfinished. Chip carving projects are often affected by warping because many items are made of relatively thin wood (⅜") and have large surface areas, such as a serving tray.
In some cases, simply leaving your item with the cupped surface facing down can slowly rectify the problem. You could also try placing the item cupped-side-down on your lawn and in direct sunlight to speed up the process. The warmth of the sun’s rays will help to draw moisture from the ground and into the piece of wood. Prevention of warping by not permitting such uneven drying is probably the best method; simply follow the suggestions for storing your wood.
Figure 1-10. Create a simple support by driving finishing nails through a thin piece of plywood.
Figure 1-11. The homemade support suspends your wood and allows air to flow on all sides.
2
THE TOOLS
CHIP CARVING KNIVES
I often refer to “the simplicity of chip carving” in the context of both the tools used and the execution of the various cuts. It wasn’t always simple. In earlier times, a variety of tools and knives were associated with the art, and the nationality of the carver generally determined which tools and methods were used.
Conventional carving knives are not suitable for chip carving because the blade does not have the appropriate angle (See Figure 2-1.). In the Netherlands, chip carvers used various razor-type blades; in Great Britain, they commonly used V-tools and single-beveled chisels and skews; and, in Scandinavia, they used various knives and chisels, in addition to picks, to clean out the bottoms of the cuts. One German tool manufacturer offers chip carving tool sets with as many as ten different shapes (See Figure 2-2.). Chip carving in these countries generally required the use of workbenches and holding devices, which obviously cut down on the portability of the art.
Figure 2-1. Conventional carving knives are not suitable for chip carving because the blade comes straight out from the handle without a downward angle.
The Swiss Influence
Though they initially offered multiple tool sets, the Swiss eventually refined their approach to include only two basic tools. The main tool is a cutting knife, and the second tool is commonly called a stab knife. Wayne Barton, an American who is a well-known authority on chip carving, trained in Switzerland using these two basic tools (See Figure 2-3 and Figure 2-4.).
Using just two tools surely made the art of chip carving much easier to learn as well as less expensive. Combine the simplicity of method with the fact that we require neither a workbench, nor clamps, nor a multitude of tools and aids generally associated with carving, and