Life at the Montanvert; glacier "Blower;" Cascade of the Talèfre; difficulties in setting out lines; departure from the Montanvert; my hosts; prospect from the Glacier des Bois; Edouard Simond
Origin and aim of the expedition; Laminated Structure of the ice
14.—Passage of the Strahleck.93
Unpromising weather; appearance of the glacier and of the adjacent mountains; Transverse Protuberances; Dirt Bands; Structure; a Slip on a snow slope; the Finsteraarhorn; the Schreckhorn; extraordinary Atmospheric Effects; Summit of the Strahleck; Grand Amphitheatre; mutations of the clouds; descent of the rocks; a Bergschrund; fog in the valley; descent to the Grimsel
15. 99
Ancient Glaciers in the valley of Hasli; Rounded, Polished, and Striated Rocks; level of the ancient ice; Groovings on the Grimsel Pass; glacier of the Rhone; descent of the Rhone valley; the Æggischhorn; Cloud Iridescences; the Aletsch glacier; the Märjelen See; Icebergs; Tributaries of the Aletsch; Grand glacier-region; crevasses; a chamois deceived
16.—Ascent of the Finsteraarhorn.104
Character of my Guide; iridescent cloud; evening on the Faulberg; the Jungfrau and her neighbours; a Mountain Cave; the Jungfrau before dawn; contemplated visit; the Grünhorn Lücke; Magnificent Corridor; sunrise; névé of the Viesch glacier; halt at the base of the Finsteraarhorn; Spurs and Couloirs of the mountain; Pyramidal Crest; scene of Agassiz's observations; a hard climb; discipline of such an ascent; Boiling Point; Registering Thermometer, its fate; daring utterance; descent by glissades; the Viesch glacier; hidden crevasses; a brave and competent guide
17. 119
Subsequent days at the Æggischhorn; Afloat on the Icebergs; Bedding and Structure; Ancient Moraines of the Aletsch; Scratched Rocks; passage of the mountains to the end of the glacier; a wild gorge; arrival at Zermatt; the Riffelberg
18.—First Ascent of Monte Rosa.122
The ascent new to myself and my guide; directions; Ulrich Lauener; Ominous Clouds; passage of the Görner Glacier; Roches Moutonnées; Avalanche from the Twins; gradual advance of clouds; bridged chasms; Scene from a cliff; apparent atmospheric struggle; Sound of the snow; Dangerous Edge; Overhanging Cornice; staff driven through it; increased obscurity; Rocky Crest; loss of pocket-book; Summit attained; Boiling Point; fall of snow; exquisite forms of the Snow Crystals; a shower of frozen blossoms; the descent; mode of attachment; Startling Avalanche; Blue Light emitted from the fissures of the fresh snow; Stifling Heat; return to the Riffel
19. 133
The Rothe Kumm; pleasant companions; difficult descent; temperatures of rock, air, and grass; Singular Cavern in the ice; Structure and Stratification
20.—The Görner Grat and the Riffelhorn; Magnetic Phenomena.137
Formation and Dissipation of clouds; Scene from the Görner Grat; Magnetism of the Rocks; the Compass and Sun at variance; ascent of the Riffelhorn; Magnetic effects; places of most intense action; Scratched and Polished Rocks; Exfoliation of crust produced by the sliding of ancient glaciers; Magnetic Polarity; Consequent Points; Bearings from the Riffelhorn; action on a Distant Needle
21. 145
Fog on the Riffelberg; its dissipation; Sunset from the Görner Grat; Cloud-wreaths on the Matterhorn; Streamers of Flame; grand Interference Phenomenon; investigation of Structure; the Görnerhorn glacier; Western glacier of Monte Rosa; the Schwarze, Trifti, and Théodule glaciers; welding of the Tributaries to parallel Strips; Temptation
22.—Second Ascent of Monte Rosa (1858).151
A Light Scrip; my Guide lent; a substitute; a party on the mountain; across the glacier and up the rocks; the guide expostulates; among the crevasses; the guide halts; left alone; beauty of the mountain; splendid effects of Diffraction; Cheer from the summit; on the Kamm; climbers meet; among the rocks; Alone on the Summit; the Axe slips; the prospect; the descent; serious accident; a word on climbing alone
23. 160
The Furgge glacier; thunder and lightning; the Weissthor given up; excursion by Stalden to Saas; Herr Imseng; the Mattmark See and Hotel; ascent of a boulder; Snow-storm; cold quarters; the Monte Moro; the Allalein glacier; a noble vault; Structure and Dirt-bands; stormy weather; Avalanches at Saas; the Fée glacier; Frozen dust on the Mischabelhörner; Snow, Vapour, and Cloud; curious effect on the hearing; "a Terrible Hole;" singular group; a Song from 'The Robbers'
24. 168
Need of observations on Alpine Temperature; Balmat's intention; aid from the Royal Society; Difficulties at Chamouni in 1858; the Intendant memorialised; his response; the Séracs revisited; Crevasses and Crumples; bad weather; thermometers placed at the Jardin; Avalanches of the Talèfre; wondrous sky
25.—Second Ascent of Mont Blanc (1858).177
Shadows of the Aiguilles; Silver Trees at sunrise; M. Necker's letter; Birds as Sparks and Stars against the sky; crevasse bridged; ladder rejected; a hunt for a pont; crevasses crossed; Magnificent Sunset; illuminated clouds; Storm on the Grands Mulets; a Comet discovered; start by starlight; the Petit Plateau a reservoir for avalanches; Balmat's warning; the Grand Plateau at dawn; blue of the ice; Balmat in danger; Clouds upon the Calotte; the Summit; wind and snow-dust; Balmat frostbitten; halt on the Calotte; descent to Chamouni; good conduct of porters
26. 192
Hostility of Chief Guide; Procès Verbal; the British Association; application to the Sardinian authorities; President's Letter; Royal Society; Testimonial to Balmat
27.—Winter Expedition to the Mer de Glace, 1859. 195
First defeat and fresh attempt; Geneva to Chamouni; deep snow; Desolation; slow progress; a horse in the snow; a struggle; Chamouni on Christmas night; mountains hidden; Climb to the Montanvert; Snow on the Pines; débris of avalanches; Breaking of snow; Atmospheric Changes; the mountains concealed and revealed; colour of the snow; the Montanvert in Winter; footprints