Did You Know?
The More the Merrier!
If you are adding a second or third dog to your existing canine family, you are in good company.According to the American Veterinary Medical Association’s 2012 U.S.Pet Ownership and Demographics Source book, as of 2011:
•An estimated 74.1 million dogs live in the United States in nearly 44 million homes, which equates to roughly 36.5 percent of the population.
•Six out of ten households own one dog.
•26 percent of households own two dogs.
•7.5 percent own three dogs.
•Slightly less than 5 percent (4.7 percent) own four or more dogs.
Equally interesting, 29 percent of pet owners said they would add a mixed breed as their next dog, with shelters (44.9 percent) and rescue organizations (39.8 percent) being mentioned most often as sources to be used if acquiring a dog.
Prevention: Creating a Safe Environment
Understanding your rescue’s temperament and breed tendencies can help make introductions smoother.
Adding a new dog to your current environment can double your fun and companionship. In the long run, things will probably work out fine, but in the beginning, it is wise to take a few precautionary steps to make all dogs feel good about the situation. Creating an environment that is safe and comfortable for all dogs involved and promotes a positive, tension-free friendship will go a long way in helping to ensure a successful transition. After all, the main goal of introductions is for it to be a positive experience for all dogs involved.
Some dogs are naturally calm and get along beautifully with other dogs from the get-go. In these instances, introductions may go off without a hitch, and all your dogs will be fast friends. This happens quite often, but plenty of trainers and behaviorists will cite cases in which introductions were rushed, forced, or unsupervised, and the dogs ended up despising each other from then on. Some owners, as well as a few trainers, opt for the free-for-all method, where they toss the new dog in with all the other dogs and let them sort it out. While this may work in rare instances, it is not recommended. Some dogs are more territorial than others, and you run the risk of causing lifelong relationship issues between the dogs—not to mention an increased likelihood of physical and emotional harm.
To be comfortable, your new puppy or adult dog needs to know he is safe and that the other dog (or dogs) won’t bully, intimidate, or hurt him. The same goes for your existing dog. He needs to know he can trust the newest family member.
Introducing Other Dogs
Ideally, introductions should be made on neutral territory, such as a short walk together around the block.
Luckily, dogs are social animals, and when well-socialized as youngsters they tend to grow into adult dogs who enjoy the company of other dogs. Sadly, some dogs develop unwanted behaviors while living with their previous owners. Others become stressed, anxious, or fearful while living on the streets or confined to a shelter situation.
No one single plan for dog-to-dog introductions exist. General guidelines will help to increase the odds of a smooth and minimally stressful transition. Yet much will depend on the temperament, personality, and size of the dogs; to some extent, each dog’s breed; and whether the new dog you are adding is a puppy, junior, or adult dog. Are any of the dogs anxious, fearful, sight or sound sensitive, dominant, or dog-to-dog aggressive? What are their play styles and energy levels? Equally important, what are the established preferences of your existing dog? Understanding each dog’s breed history, if you know it, will help you determine his or her individual traits. For example, J’mee, while her pedigree is unknown, appears to be part West Highland Terrier—a breed that can be cocky and tough and “Scottish to the core.” If your dog is part Boxer, it’s a good idea to understand that they play by standing on their hind legs and “boxing,” which can be intimidating and off putting to many dogs. Or, if you’ve rescued a high-drive, high-energy herding dog, you’ll need to understand that they like to control movement, which often includes nipping.
For multiple-dog households, consider introducing your new dog, be it a puppy or adult, to one dog at a time. If you know both dogs are social and friendly with other dogs, the introduction should be easy. Most humane societies and rescue organizations do temper and personality evaluations before releasing dogs for adoption. That said, not all shelter staff are knowledgeable about canine body language, and dogs living in a shelter environment can quickly deteriorate emotionally and therefore may not be accurately evaluated.
Training Tip:
Transition Period
Right away, you knew he was the dog for you! Yet, most likely, your dog doesn’t know what is happening, especially if he was an owner release to an animal shelter.His world has been turned upside down.He may see you as the latest person to shake up his life, including his sense of stability and security (if he ever had any!).A new environment, sights, smells, and sounds can be overwhelming.He may not understand that he gets to stay with you forever, and that you’ve got his back no matter what.Subsequently, stressing or acting out is not uncommon for many dogs.Take your time, provide him with plenty of guidance and direction and love, and allow him to adjust at his own pace.
Meeting Outdoors
Ideally, introductions should be made outside in a quiet, open area and, if possible, on neutral territory, such as during a short walk together around the block or a friend’s yard. This gives the dogs plenty of room to negotiate, and they are not forced to interact in a small space. This is doubly important if you are uncertain how the dogs will react. A nearby park may work but be careful of too much stimulation, such as other dogs or loud, rambunctious kids. Consider enlisting the help of a friend, family member, or experienced dog trainer who can handle one of the dogs.
Depending on each dog’s temperament, personality, and individual characteristics, a fenced yard, field, or tennis court, works well—provided it is a safe environment. For example, two socially friendly dogs, with little or no emotional baggage or aggressive tendencies, may quickly accept each other on their own terms if allowed to interact unencumbered in a fenced-in area without owner interference. No pressure on either of the dogs. While some experts caution against this type of introduction, many an owner has inadvertently created a good deal of canine anxiety by attempting to force interactions between the dogs or jerking or tightening the tension on the leash, which can escalate to canine threats or aggression.
If going off leash is not possible, consider letting the dogs drag their leashes on the ground. If that isn’t possible, use a 6-foot (100 cm) leash or long line but be sure to keep the leash or long line loose at all times.
While there are numerous advantages to introducing dogs on neutral territory, sometimes it isn’t possible. In these instances, your yard is better than inside the house. Urinating and marking are normal ways dogs meet, greet, and find out anything and everything about each other, and outdoor meetings allow them this opportunity. Inside your home can create additional stress because of the inability to “mark”—or they may mark your couch, which does not get things off to a good start! Plus, indoors may not provide the open space dogs need to adequately check each other out. Some dogs are more territorial than others, and being indoors, which forces dogs to investigate each other at close range, may create additional problems.
With any dog-to-dog interactions, you must be observant. Brush up on your canine body language skills so you can recognize when either dog is worried, anxious, fearful, or simply being a bully. Also, keep things moving. It’s probably one of the most important things you can do to help dogs become comfortable with each other. For example, if one or all of the dogs get up on their hackles, stare at each other, or the like—tell them in a happy, calm voice, “Hey, guys, let’s go this way”—or