4 Press the needle case outer piece in half to become 61⁄2in × 43⁄4in (16.5cm × 12cm). Position the house stitchery on the front of the case and pin in place (see Fig 1).
Making the prairie points
5 Cut ten 1in (2.5cm) squares from assorted fabrics and press into triangles following Fig 2.
6 Position five prairie points along the top and five along the bottom of the stitchery, with the raw bottom edges of the points under the stitchery. Stitch down using a blind hem stitch.
7 Bond the needle case outer with its stitchery design on to one side of the double-sided adhesive interfacing (I used Pellon Peltex).
Making the inner pocket
8 Take the 51⁄2in × 91⁄2in (14cm × 24.1cm) pocket piece and fold it in half lengthwise. Press and then divide the left-hand half into three (Fig 3) (remembering there will be a 1⁄4in/6mm seam at each end). Press lightly to mark the thirds.
9 Using Fig 4 below, position the inner pocket stitchery and stitch in place.
Working the appliqué
10 Trace around the heart template three times on to the paper side of fusible web, leaving about 1⁄2in (1.3cm) around each heart. Fuse the hearts on the centre of each third of the pocket (Fig 4) – remembering that there will be a 1⁄4in (6mm) seam at the bottom of the pocket (see Fusible Web Method in the Techniques section).
11 When the appliqué is fused into place, use two strands of embroidery thread to work blanket stitch around the edges of the shapes.
Making the needle case inner
12 Take the needle case lining cut previously and position the pocket, pinning it in. Work a running stitch with two strands of petrol blue stranded cotton on the crease lines of each pocket to divide them.
13 Position the previously cut ginger wool for the needle holder and pin in place. Using two strands of ginger thread work blanket stitch around the edge to hold in place. Gently press your work.
14 Bond the needle case lining with its pockets to the other side of the adhesive interfacing.
Making the ties
15 Fold one of the tie strips in half lengthwise, right sides together. Machine stitch across one of the short sides and the entire long side. Turn through to the right side. Repeat with other strip.
16 Position the ties facing inwards, aligning raw edges and pin in place (Fig 5). The ties will get stitched into place as you add the binding.
Binding the case
17 Cut the binding 11⁄4in (3.2cm) wide on the straight of the grain. Join strips to make the necessary length to go around the case and then press in 1⁄4in (6mm) down the length of the binding. Bind the edge following the directions for Binding in the Techniques section.
Gardener’s Scissor Keeper
This scissor holder is padded with wadding and is perfect for keeping your scissors safe. Personalize the stitchery design by stitching your name above the little bird, either freehand or using the alphabet template at the back of the book.
You will need…
• Dark brown print for back and lining 8in (20.3cm) square
• Cream textured fabric for stitchery 5in (12.7cm) square
• Fusible stabilizer 5in (12.7cm) square (optional)
• Stranded embroidery cotton (floss): ginger, salmon pink, dirty mauve, black, aged red, moss green, grey and petrol blue (I used Cosmo threads but DMC equivalents are suggested in the instructions)
• Thin card
• Clear, fast-tack craft glue
• Thin wadding (batting) or fusible interfacing
• Template plastic
• Fine-tipped fabric marking pen in brown
• Light box (optional)
Finished size:
21⁄2in × 4in (6.3cm × 10.2cm)
Working the stitchery
1 Use the relevant templates given in Templates at the back of the book. Transfer the stitchery design for the scissor keeper on to the right side of the cream textured print, leaving at least 2in (5cm) between the designs to cut them apart later. Follow the instructions at the end of the Hollyhock Cottage Bag for stitching the designs.
Making the scissor keeper
2 Make templates from template plastic for the two scissor holder shapes. Place the templates on to the wrong side of your stitchery and, making sure that you have centred the stitchery, draw around the template with a pencil. Cut out these shapes, cutting out about 3⁄8in (1cm) beyond the drawn line to allow for a seam. Use the same templates to mark the shapes on your print backing fabric, cutting out about 3⁄8in (1cm) beyond the drawn line to allow for a seam.
3 Use the templates to mark the shapes on thin wadding (batting) but this time no seam allowance is needed, so cut out the shapes exactly on the line. Use the templates to mark the shapes on thin card, cutting out the shapes exactly on the line. Cut two card pieces for each shape.
4 Take one card back piece and one card front piece and use fast-tack glue to stick thin wadding on to one side of each of them.
5 Place the stitchery for the front of the scissor keeper wrong side up and place the appropriate card shape on top, wadding side up. Carefully put glue around the edge of the card and then bring the 1⁄4in (6mm) seam allowance over