Frommer’s EasyGuide to Rhode Island. Barbara Rogers

St. ( 401/396-9994).

      DeWolf Tavern NEW AMERICAN Located in a renovated 1818 warehouse, this interesting tavern’s decor consists of the building’s original stone and mortar walls and exposed wooden beams. The menu is contemporary American with a tilt toward Bristol’s seafaring heritage and a dash of the East: steamed mussels in coconut milk with curry leaf and chili; tandoori marinated swordfish. Don’t miss roasted Brussels sprouts and cornbread hash from the selection of side dishes.

      259 Thames St. www.dewolftavern.com. 401/254-2005. Main courses $14–$42. Mon–Fri 11:30am–10:30pm, Sat–Sun 8am–2pm and 2:30–10:30pm.

      Le Central Bistro FRENCH Typical French bistro dishes served in this lively local gathering spot include traditional steak frites, salade Niçoise, charcuterie plates, country style pâtés, Moroccan chicken, and rack of lamb. Lunch specialties include a bistro burger with fries or lobster BLT. Try the warm lemon-ricotta crepes with seasonal fruits for dessert.

      483 Hope St. www.lecentralbristol.net. 401/396-9965. Main courses $16–$24. Mon–Sat 11am–2pm, Sun 10am–2pm; dinner daily 5pm “til closing.”

      The Lobster Pot SEAFOOD A consistent winner of Rhode Island Monthly’s Best of RI Award for seafood, this traditional waterfront restaurant has sat overlooking the Bristol harbor since 1929. For all its fame, the atmosphere is friendly and unpretentious. Sleek it isn’t; it’s a traditional shore-hall, but with white tablecloths—the image of places all along the New England shore. Build your own seafood platter of littlenecks, cherrystones, oysters, lobster, and jumbo shrimp, or order from a menu of traditional seafood dishes created from impeccably fresh fish and shellfish.

      119 Hope St. www.lobsterpotri.com. 401/253-9100. Main courses $17–$40. May–Oct Mon–Fri noon–9pm, Sat–Sun noon–10pm; Nov–Apr Tues–Sun noon–9pm.

Newport

      71 miles S of Boston; 178 miles NE of New York City

      Look out today across the marina filled with pleasure craft and it’s hard to imagine how vital Newport was during the Colonial and Federal periods, rivaling Boston and even New York as a center of New World trade and prosperity. In the following century, wealthy industrialists, railroad tycoons, coal magnates, financiers, and robber barons were drawn to the area, especially between the Civil War and World War I. They bought up property at the ocean’s rim to build what they called summer “cottages”—which were, in fact, mansions of immoderate design and proportions, patterned after European palaces.

      Today’s Newport reflects all these eras. Immediately east and north of the business district are blocks of Colonial, Federal, and Victorian houses, many of them designated National Historic Sites. Happily, they are not frozen in amber but very much in use as residences, restaurants, offices, and shops. Taken together, they are as visually appealing as the 40-room cottages of the super-rich, the Gilded Age sites that draw so many visitors to Newport.

      Newport has been spared the coarser intrusions that afflict so many coastal resorts. T-shirt emporia have been kept within reasonable limits—a remarkable feat, considering that some 4 million visitors come through its narrow streets every year.

      Despite Newport’s prevailing image as a collection of ornate mansions and regattas for the rich and famous, the city is largely middle class and not too excessively priced. Scores of inns and B&Bs ensure lodging even during festival weeks, at rates from budget to ultra-luxury level. In almost every respect, this is the “First Resort” of the New England coast.

      Essentials

      Arriving

      BY CAR Newport occupies the southern tip of Aquidneck Island in Narragansett Bay and is connected to the mainland by bridges and a ferry. From New York City, take I-95 to exit 3, picking up Route 138 east and crossing the Newport toll bridge, which takes you slightly north of the downtown district; the drive should take around 3½ hours. From Boston and the north, it’s a 1½-hour drive; take Route 24 through Fall River, picking up Route 114 into town.

      Newport

      BY BUS The Rhode Island Public Transit Authority, or RIPTA (www.ripta.com; 800/244-0444 or 401/781-9400), has buses that run between Providence’s Kennedy Plaza and the Newport Visitor Information Center. The trip is 75 minutes and the one-way fare is $1.75. Peter Pan Bus Lines (www.peterpanbus.com) also provides service from Providence, but it takes twice as long, requires a transfer, and costs $21. There’s no reason to use them when RIPTA is so much faster and cheaper.

      Visitor Information

      The Newport Gateway Transportation and Visitor Center, 23 America’s Cup Ave. (www.gonewport.com; 800/976-5122 or 401/845-9123), adjacent to the bus station, is open daily from 9am to 5pm. It has attendants on duty to help with lodging and local events.

      Getting Around