riverside restaurant that opened 20 years ago out among the modernist architecture of the Parque das Nações district. Its slogan is “Setúbal in Lisbon,” a reference to the southern port whose famed fish market is the source of the piscatorial pleasures served up here. Most people go for charcoal-grilled catch of the day, be it seabass, gold-eyed bream, red mullet, or whatever, but there are other specialties such as a sloppy pasta stew with wreckfish (cherne, a highly-prized white fish), or Setúbal favorite fried cuttlefish with fries.
Rua da Pimenta 35. www.senhorpeixe.pt. 21/895-58-92. Mains 15€–28€. Tues–Sun noon–3:30pm, 7–10:30pm; Sun noon–3:30pm. Metro: Oriente.
Inexpensive
Cantinho do Aziz MOZAMBICAN This backstreet, family-run restaurant serves up the exotically delicious cuisine of Mozambique, a coconut and chili infused blend of African, Indian, and Portuguese flavors. It’s been a favorite in the hillside Mouraria district since the 1980s, and Chef Jeny Sulemange launched her own cookbook in 2019. Try crab curry, shrimp with okra, or baby goat with toasted coconut. Three things that are hard to resist but it might be better to go easy on: iced 2M beer shipped in from southern Africa, Chef Jeny’s fiery piri-piri sauce, and the oh-so-sweet cashew-fruit mousse for dessert.
Rua de S. Lourenço 5. www.cantinhodoaziz.com. 21/887-64-72. Mains 9€–19€. Daily noon–11pm. Metro: Martim Moniz.
O Pitéu PORTUGUESE Run by the same family since the 1960s, this is a typical neighborhood restaurant: decorative tiles on white walls, paper tablecloths, soccer game on the TV. It buzzes with the chatter of regular customers and curious newcomers wandering in from the nearby terminus of Tram 28 up in the trendy Graça neighborhood, just a short walk away from one of Lisbon’s most spectacular view points. There’s a wide daily range of traditional Portuguese dishes, but for many the highlight is fried fish served with tomato rice. Finish up with Siricaia, an eggy dessert from the Alentejo that’s accompanied by syrupy preserved plums.
Largo da Graça, 95-96. www.restauranteopiteu.pt. 21/887-10-67. Mains 10€–20€. Mon–Fri noon–3:30pm, 7–10:15pm. Tram: 28.
Belém & West of Center
Moderate
Darwin’s Café INTERNATIONAL Enjoying a spectacular waterfront location in the Champalimaud Center for the Unknown, a cutting-edge science center and architectural landmark, this vast white space is dominated by evolutionary-inspired modern art with giant, multicolored prints of 19th-century zoological tracts on the walls. Mediterranean and Portuguese influences mingle on an international menu that includes the likes of shrimp and octopus risotto with sundried tomato, and salt cod under a corn-bread crust. They have a lighter menu for snacks on the riverside terrace and are open for lanche, Portugal’s version of afternoon tea. Darwin’s is a short walk from the Torre de Belém.
Champalimaud Center for the Unknown, Av. Brasília. www.darwincafe.com. 21/048-0222. Mains 15€–27€. Mon 12:30–3:30pm; Tues–Sun 12:30–3:30pm, 4:30–6:30pm & 7:30–11pm. Tram: 15.
Nune’s Real Marisqueira PORTUGUESE/SEAFOOD One of the best fish restaurants in the city, Nune’s is a welcome escape from the bustle of Belém’s tourist attractions—just follow the tram line out of town. This upscale seafood joint serves up superlative shellfish alongside fresh chargrilled fish plus a number of signature dishes like John Dory filets served with roe or grouper arroz (Portuguese risotto). It’s more expensive than most such places, but the stream of regular local customers know that you pay for quality. There’s meat too, its aged steaks are justly famed.
Rua Bartolomeu Dias 112. www.nunesmarisqueira.pt. 21/301-98-99. Mains 11€–45€. Tues–Sun noon–midnight. Tram: 15.
Rio Maravilha INTERNATIONAL Climb to the top floor of what was an old printworks, to discover this uber-trendy post-industrial space. Expansive views over the river await, as does some of the city’s most interesting food. An innovative blend of Portuguese and Brazilian influences pervades the frequently changing menu. We’ve particularly enjoyed broiled shrimp with pureed manioc or salt cod with caramelized turnips and miso. The atmosphere is relaxed and sharing is encouraged. The bar, with its irreverent polychrome statue reaching out to Cristo Rei across the river, is the coolest place amid all the cool hangouts in LX Factory.
Rua Rodrigues Faria, 103. www.facebook.com/riomaravilha.lxfactory. 96/602-82-29. Mains 14€–25€. Tues–Thurs 12:30pm–2am; Fri–Sat 12:30pm–3am; Sun 12:30–midnight. Tram:15.
Inexpensive
Cantina LX PORTUGUESE A canteen for print workers for generations back in the days when LX Factory was actually a factory rather than Lisbon’s hippest post-industrial shopping, eating, and cultural hub. Cooking is traditional with the occasional twist—try dishes like slow-cooked pork cheek with asparagus “migas” (a bread-based accompaniment), or tuna steak with fennel and spinach. The decor is a homely junkyard jumble of recycled furniture and tools left behind by workers dating back to the 1840s. There’s a cocktail bar and a leafy terrace out back.
R. Rodrigues Faria 103. www.cantinalx.com. 21/362-82-39. Mains 12€–17€. Sun–Mon, Fri noon–11pm; Tues–Thurs, Sat noon–3pm, 7:30–11pm. Tram: 15.
Soajeiro MADEIRAN/PORTUGUESE This hole-in-the-wall does a range of Portuguese standards, but the crowds who pack in every lunchtime are drawn by one dish: espetada. A specialty from the owner’s Madeira island home, it comprises cubes of tender, garlic-infused beef skewered on laurel branches, then grilled over hot coals. Served with red-pepper salad, fries, and (on baking days) garlic-infused bolo do caco (a Madeiran flat-bread). This traditional tasca (tavern) is extremely popular with people working in the neighborhood, so get there early to avoid the lines. For dessert there’s passion-fruit pie, and do try a poncha, the potent island cocktail of rum and lemon juice.
Rua do Merca-Tudo, 16. 21/397-53-16. Mains 8€–11€. Mon–Sat noon–3pm. Tram: 25.
Avenida & North of Center
Expensive
Estórias na Casa da Comida CONTEMPORARY PORTUGUESE Occupying the ground floor of an old townhouse off one of Lisbon’s must atmospheric squares, this joint oozing old-world charm has been a standout on the Lisbon restaurant scene for 40 years. It’s built around a courtyard garden
