Visitor Information
The official Lisbon Tourism Association (www.visitlisboa.com) has 13 “Ask Me Lisboa” information points around the city, including on Praça do Comércio (
City Layout & Neighborhoods
Lisbon is the westernmost capital of continental Europe. Atlantic beaches start a 20-minute train ride away from downtown. It’s spread out along the north bank of the Tagus, the longest river on the Iberian Peninsula, where it broadens into an estuary almost 20km (12 miles) wide before narrowing again just before it reaches the ocean. Like Rome, Lisbon is built on seven hills, but as the city spread it took in more rises and valleys. That makes walking tough on the calves but easy on the eye, as you discover more and more viewpoints over the city and the river. Here’s a pick of Lisbon’s most interesting neighborhoods.
Baixa The city’s downtown core, Baixa was laid out in a grid of rectangular blocks after the earthquake of 1755. It’s bookended by two plazas: Praça do Comércio, whose arcaded government offices and sidewalk cafes open out onto the Tagus; and Rossio (officially Praça de D. Pedro IV) the city’s favorite meeting place, featuring waves of black-and-white paving, the National Theater, fountains, and a towering column in honor of King Pedro. The lattice of busy streets running between them is a unique example of 18th-century town planning and a major shopping hub. Although tourist-oriented stores are increasingly taking over, it’s still packed with enchanting curiosities: from generations-old stores selling buttons and ribbons to grocers backed with strings of spicy sausage and bags of aromatic coffee, and splendid old cafes like Confeitaria Nacional (p. 106). The grandest, most harmonious (and most touristy) street is pedestrianized Rua Augusta, which ends in a triumphal arch leading into Praça do Comércio. Among the Baixa’s curiosities are the Elevador de Santa Justa (p. 105) and the fire-damaged Igreja de São Domingos church. Praça da Figueira is another fine square with interesting stores and cafes.
Alfama, Sé & Castelo Immediately east of Baixa is the hill where Lisbon began. It’s crowned by Castelo São Jorge and the medieval lanes of the Castelo neighborhood that surrounds it. They contain some fine hotels and the Fundação Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva, a living museum with artisans’ workshops. On the slope leading up to the castle, the Sé neighborhood takes its name from the fortress like 12th-century Cathedral (Sé). It’s traversed by the famed Tram 28 line along a street lined with antique and handicraft shops. At its foot, Campo das Cebolas is a plaza lined with cafes, restaurants, and historic facades like Casa dos Bicos. Next door, Alfama is Lisbon’s most characteristic district. Its steeply winding streets are the spiritual home of fado music and, although fast gentrifying, it remains highly atmospheric. Among Alfama’s many churches, grand São Vicente de Fora contains wonderful azulejos, and Santa Engrácia holds the tombs of Portugal’s great and good. Both have sweeping river vistas from their rooftops, but Alfama’s best view is from Largo Portas de Sol—especially if you get (or stay) up for sunrise.
Chiado, Bairro Alto & prÍncipe Real The hill on the other side of Baixa is for shopping and partying. Chiado has been a chic shopping district since the 19th century. On its streets nestle venerable shops like the tiny Luvaria Ulisses glovemaker and Livraria Bertrand, the world’s oldest working bookshop. There are also splendid old cafes, grand theaters like the São Carlos opera house, and the National Museum of Contemporary Art. Among the attractive squares, Praça Luís de Camões is a popular meeting place, and Largo do Carmo fronts the gothic arches of the Convento do Carmo, an atmospheric museum amid ruins left by the 1755 earthquake. Bairro Alto means “high neighborhood”—the name refers to its hillside elevation rather than the impact of substances consumed in the bars and clubs that line its narrow alleys. Amid the booze joints are some cool bars, fine restaurants, and fado houses. Across the road, São Roque church has a golden interior of baroque carvings. Príncipe Real, spread out around the shady gardens of the same name, is the premier fashionista hangout, packed with eclectic boutiques and yet more cool bars. The Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara has iconic views over the city and Praça das Flores (Square of Flowers) is as pretty as its name.
Cais do SoDrÉ, Santos & AlcÂntara Cais do Sodré is the other main nightlife district, down by the river. Its nocturnal focus is bar-lined Rua Nova do Carvalho, better known as “Pink Street” for its rose painted asphalt. During the day, the big attraction is the Time Out Market, an always-packed gourmet hall, and its neighbor the traditional Ribeira Market with its morning displays of fish and fruit. Riverside Santos has more bars and design stores, but its must-see is the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, a 17th-century palace housing a world-class collection of old masters. Farther along the river and in the shadow of the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge, Alcântara is an old working-class district that’s making the most of its industrial heritage with LX Factory, a jumble of hip stores, bars, and restaurants installed in a derelict printworks and the Museo do Oriente, a superb collection of Asian art housed in a 1940s warehouse.
BelÉm Memories of the Discoveries abound in Belém. Spread out amid riverside gardens are the unmissable Jerónimos Monastery and the Torre de Belém, perhaps Europe’s most photogenic fortress. There’s a 1960s Monument to the Discoveries in the grandiose style preferred by the Salazar dictatorship, and a Maritime Museum. More recent attractions include the Centro Cultural de Belém (CCB), which holds theaters and a fine modern art collection, the Coach Museum and the spanking-new MAAT contemporary art center. Portugal’s president lives in a pretty pink palace overlooking the river and, of course, there is the cafe that opened in 1837 to serve the custard and cinnamon treats known as Pastéis de Belém.
Avenida & Avenidas NovAs Back downtown, head north from Rossio and you’ll hit the Avenida de Liberdade, Lisbon’s swankiest boulevard since 1879. It’s over a kilometer (1,000 yards) long, with trees, ponds, and pavements down the center and boutiques, banks, shopping malls, and theaters along both sides. It’s the place to flex your credit card. Oddly enough, it also contains the headquarters of the Portuguese Communist Party in a striking Art Deco building. At the top is Parque Eduardo VII, the biggest city center park. Farther out toward the airport is the Avenidas Novas district laid out in the 19th and early 20th centuries. It has more shopping, historic cafes like Pastelaria Versailles, and quirky buildings like the arabesque Campo Pequeno bullring. But by far, the biggest draw is the Gulbenkian Museum, with amazing art surrounded by a tranquil garden.
Estrela, Lapa & Campo de Ourique Uphill from Santos, the tony Lapa neighborhood is filled with mansions holding embassies and ambassadorial residences. Neighboring Estrela is centered around the Basílica da Estrela, a white-domed baroque church from the 18th century and the Jardim da Estrela gardens, a favorite place for Lisbon families to cool off in summer. Nearby Campo de Ourique is a village within the city: Built largely in the early 20th century on a flat plateau, it contains some fine Art Deco buildings, a gourmet market, and excellent shops and cafes away from the tourist trail (even though it’s the terminus of Tram 28). The Cemitério dos Prazeres, Lisbon’s oldest cemetery, is here; a stroll among