• Schematics are illustrations of the item you’re making. They include stitch and row counts, finished measurements, and other instructions. Also important, you’ll find an arrow to show the direction of knitting.
• Symbol charts: Pay close attention to all the markings on the symbol charts. Watch for row numbers, arrows showing the direction of rows, and other hints that will help you complete the pattern.
• Line drawings illustrate finishing details: where to sew seams, where to attach buttons or handles, and how to position an edging, for instance.
Chart Conventions
If you’re new to stitch charts, keep these points in mind:
• The chart represents the right side of the work. Japanese stitch symbols are drawn to resemble the finished stitch, and once you’re accustomed to them, you’ll see the visual correlation.
• When you’re working back and forth:
• On the right side, read the chart from right to left, in the same sequence that you work the stitches. Some charts include arrows as reminders.
• On the reverse (or “wrong”) side, read the chart from left to right, and reverse the operation, so that your stitches will read correctly on the right side. That is, if the chart shows a knit stitch on the right side, you know to purl on the wrong side. In this book, we’ve provided definitions for wrong side operations when necessary.
• If you’re working in the round, read every row from right to left. There’s no need to reverse stitches.
Stitch Symbols
Be sure you understand how to work the symbols in the chart for your project. Definitions of the symbols can be found in two places:
• The technique section at the back of the book shows how to work the most common knit (and crochet) stitches with illustrations and explanations.
• Each “Point Lesson” also explains any additional symbols used in projects with this pattern. Be sure to work the swatch in the Point Lesson before working on a larger project.
• Keep in mind that a few crochet techniques are also included, such as edgings. The crochet techniques used in the book can be found in the back.
Most Japanese charts use odd numbers for the right side rows, and even numbers for wrong side rows. Pay attention! A few of the stitch patterns in this book reverse that, with even numbered right side rows and odd-numbered wrong side rows. Stay alert.
Yarn substitution
These projects were created with Japanese yarn that may not be easily available in other countries. The original yarn is identified for each pattern. Most likely, you will want to substitute a different yarn. On page 50, you’ll find an illustrated list of the original yarns used in these projects: weight, fiber content, meterage/yardage and so on.
To make an appropriate yarn substitution:
• Check the weight of the original yarn.
• Check the fiber content. You’ll probably want a yarn with a similar fiber content so your project looks like the one photographed.
• Work a gauge swatch with your selected yarn to ensure that you can match the specified stitch and row gauge for the pattern. The swatch is the most important step in making an effective substitution. The needle size given in the pattern is only a starting point. Depending on your knitting style, you may need a smaller or larger needle to achieve the stated gauge.
Wonder Knitting Patterns
Wonder Knitting Patterns
In this book, we introduce you to a variety of knitted patterns that may look unusual, but are actually all made by combining basic knitting techniques. Please refer to the Point Lessons for techniques that are hard to understand through the charts alone.
※ In some of the knitted swatches, we’ve used different colored yarns from the ones in the finished items.
※ In order to make the Point Lessons easy to understand, we have used different row, stitch and pattern repeat numbers from the finished items. When you are making one of the items, please refer to their charts and directions in the Instructions section starting on page 51.
Bubble Stitch
This stitch creates a “bubble” texture with a knit-one-below technique on every 6th row. The key point is to make the distance between each pulled up stitch and the height of each row even, to create nicely rounded bubbles.
See pages 8 and 9 for projects using this stitch.
Point Lesson
Work 6 rows in stockinette stitch using the first color. Change to the next color, knit 1, and insert the tip of RN into the second stitch in row 2.
With RN in stitch, allow the stitches in the 4 rows above needle to drop off LN and onto RN. Slip these stitches back to LN.
Knit 1 stitch through all the stitches on the left needle.
Repeat steps 1–3 every 4 stitches (skipping the first k1 in step 1) to the end of the row. Do this for the second row of each color.
Herringbone Stitch
Work two stitches together, leave one of the loops on the left needle, and work it together with the next stitch, across the row. What characterizes the herringbone stitch is that two rows create one pattern, and the knitted fabric is quite thick and substantial. The technique used here requires you to knit 2 together through back loops on RS, and to wrap yarn opposite of the usual way when you purl 2 together.
See pages 10 and 11 for projects using this stitch.
Point Lesson
On the second row, (WS), insert RN into 2 stitches as if to purl 2 together. Wrap yarn over RN in the direction shown.
Bring the yarn through, but leave 2 stitches on LN.