The rough Cuillin rock can play havoc with any footwear so consider smearing glue on the stitching to protect it from abrasion. It might not look pretty but it extends the life of the shoe considerably. With care, approach shoes can last longer than you might expect but with abuse they can be trashed on a single traverse. I have worn a pair of approach shoes for a six-week period in the Cuillin and they covered 240km with 27,000m of ascent. They were trashed by the end but had seen a huge amount of use.
Choose your pack and footwear carefully and make sure you test your gear in conditions appropriate to the ridge (Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh, Section 7)
If you are thinking about rock shoes to change into then perhaps you aren’t ready yet for the ridge. Changing in and out of footwear is a waste of time and if you don’t have the grade to spare to be able to rock climb in approach shoes or boots then you may well struggle to solo the scrambling, which is a prerequisite for success. Boot or shoe is a personal choice – whichever you opt for, make sure you train in them rather than arriving at Glen Brittle with virgin footwear. Go for a comfortable fit and bear in mind that your feet will swell over a 15-hour day.
Clothing
The type of clothing you need will depend on time of year, weather forecast and style of the traverse. A one-day traverse in perfect conditions might just require a light windproof and hat in addition to what you are wearing. For multi-day trips, think about the large temperature ranges that are possible and be prepared with warmer clothes for cold clear nights.
Socks should be comfortable, tried and tested. Merino wool mixed with manmade fibres work well (pure wool seems to wear out very quickly).
Trousers need to be hardwearing to survive the rough rock. Large pockets are useful for keeping hill food, route instructions and your map etc to hand. Shorts are not recommended due to the abrasiveness of the rock.
Underwear should preferably be of manmade fibres so as to dry quickly when you sweat.
Baselayer can be long-sleeved so as to keep arms warm and double as protection from the sun. Manmade fibres are best although some merino wool/manmade fibre mixes work well. 100% wool tends to get clammy and stay damp.
A fleece will provide a useful warm layer. A thin, hooded fleece with thumb loops is ideal and can be combined with a thin Pertex windshell.
A duvet jacket could be considered as an addition especially if you are going to bivi. Synthetic is best given the prevailing maritime climate.
Waterproofs will hopefully not be needed. You probably won’t need a full metal jacket of heavy Goretex since if conditions are that bad you will be heading down. Lightweight waterproofs work well, are obviously light and pack down small.
Gloves provide useful protection against both the cold and the rough rock. A pair of thin liner gloves take very little space but may save the day if conditions change. Gloves are also useful for protection against the rough rock and rope handling especially if you aren’t used to it. Big name climbing gear manufacturers make thin leather palmed gloves but they are expensive so a useful alternative can be either leather workmen’s gloves or gardeners’ gloves.
Leather gloves being worn on Bidein (Section 8)
Headgear is invaluable for keeping you warm or cool so take a hat and something to protect you from the sun. Buffs are very versatile. Make sure your choice of headgear works well with your climbing helmet. You should consider taking sunglasses depending on the weather forecast but especially if it’s going to be sunny and there is still snow around.
Bivi gear
Sleeping bag
Most people prefer synthetic bags due to the possibility of them getting wet. However, down bags are lighter, pack smaller and hopefully you will be setting out with a good forecast (and probably only for one night) so it won’t be too disastrous should it get damp. Personally, I take a 1 season very light down bag and wear all my clothes in it happy to offset a slightly chilly night for a light pack over two days.
Bivi bag
I have only used Goretex bags and they work pretty well. I have seen people literally soaked with condensation when using bags made of other materials so Goretex is well worth the added cost. A zip top is preferable to the cheaper models with draw cords, which are harder to seal against the elements. Remember, bags can tear easily on rough ground so choose your bivi carefully and consider putting your sleeping mat on the ground under it.
Sleeping mat
Lots of people take Thermarest-type mats but these are very vulnerable to the sharp rocks of the Cuillin so care is needed with choosing your bivi site. Consider a closed cell foam mat cut down to two-thirds of its full size, so just long enough to stretch from hips to shoulders; the rope can be uncoiled and used for padding under your legs and your rucksack as a pillow.
Stove
Gas is the way to go. It’s clean, easy, quick and there are no worries about liquid fuel spills or leaks. Light is best but think about stability and wind resistance if going for the ultra-light models. Jetboil-type stoves are brilliant; not the lightest but completely self-contained with windshield, pot and cup etc all in one. Don’t rely on built in-igniters – always take another lighter or windproof matches.
Cutlery etc
A spoon or spork should suffice since you won’t be engaging in cordon bleu cooking. A largish cup can double as a bowl to eat from.
Water bottles
Consider taking extra bottles or a spare bladder so you can descend to a spring and take back plenty of water for the evening and next day.
Food and drinks
Preferences will vary according to personal taste but whatever you take, make sure you have tried it in the hills prior to your ridge attempt.
Trail food to eat during the day
Trail food should be kept easily accessible so it can be eaten little and often, perhaps in trouser or fleece pockets or a pouch on your hipsack belt. Here are some ideas to consider:
Fruit pastilles or jelly babies
Fig rolls (although these can be too dry in heatwave conditions)
Cereal bars (test them and opt for the more moist varieties)
Energy gels in small sachets (particularly useful for one day traverses)
Liquid for the day should also be readily available so Camelback-type bladders are ideal and enable you to drink without stopping. Fill bladders and bottles etc and drink your fill as high as possible on the approach. Remember, lots of teams give up due to running out of water/dehydration. Hydration tablets not only replace lost salts and sugars but the pleasant taste can encourage you to drink more and stay hydrated.
Evening meal, breakfast and lightweight cooking gear
Dinner
Boil-in-the-bag or dehydrated meals are very quick and easy to prepare, don’t mess up the pans and the water can double for a hot drink. On the downside, they are expensive and boil-in-the-bag meals are heavy.
A cheap, easy and light alternative is a packet of cous cous, slices of salami and a cup-a-soup. Quality chocolate for pudding followed by copious hot drinks of your choice constitutes a fairly palatable meal. Keep water handy