Albergue
This is accommodation often run by a pilgrim organisation/church/municipality, available only for pilgrims carrying the credential. Albergues usually feature dorm-style accommodation (bunk beds) with communal bathrooms, a place to hand-wash clothes (although increasingly they have washing machines), and most have kitchen facilities. Disposable sheets may be provided and sometimes a pillow, but you are expected to bring a sleeping bag.
Unless privately owned, bookings are not permitted and beds are allocated on a first-come basis. ‘Lights-out’ is 9 or 10pm, depending on the season, and you are expected to leave by 8am. Some operate on a ‘donativo’ (donation) basis, in which case a minimum donation of €5 is appreciated. Others may be from €5–15, depending on whether they are run by the council or private. Staying in albergues is a great way to get to know your fellow pilgrims and lasting memories can be made through cooking and sharing meals together.
Bunks in an albergue at Rubiães (Central Camino Stage 19)
Albergue de Peregrinos in Alpriate (Central Camino Stage 1)
Hostel
These are privately run, often with private rooms in addition to dorm-style accommodation, with communal facilities. They are not exclusive to pilgrims. Prices generally start from €10 and bookings are permitted.
Pousadas de Juventude
Not to be confused with Pousadas (see below), these are youth hostels and are often in great locations, with terrific facilities. They can be used by people of any age or nationality. Prices range from €8–15pp for dorm rooms and some offer discounts to pilgrims with a credential; see www.pousadasjuventude.pt.
Pensão and residencial
Low-budget private accommodation (sometimes rooms in a house or apartment), often with communal bathrooms. Prices vary from €15–30 per room, depending on location.
Bombeiros Voluntários (Volunteer Firefighters)
As pilgrim numbers increase, this service has been declining; however, some fire stations still allow pilgrims to use their lodging overnight. Facilities may be basic and/or you may need your own mattress. Enquire at the local tourist office for details. Beds may be free of charge or offered on a donation basis.
Quinta
A quinta is a large country house that has accommodation, often similar to a B&B. Prices tend to start from €30 per room.
Pousada and Parador
At the top end of the scale is the restored luxury accommodation in historic castles, convents or palaces. These are called Pousadas in Portugal (www.pousadas.pt) and Paradors in Spain (www.parador.es). Outside of peak periods you may be surprised to find luxurious rooms available from €50; otherwise expect upwards of €70 per room.
Food and drink
Portugal
Breakfast (pequeno almoço), often served from 7.30am, typically consists of a sweet pastry followed by a coffee. Served in a café, cake shop (pastelaria) or bakery (padaria), it will cost you €2–3 in a city and less in smaller towns. Lunch (almoço) is from 12–2.30pm and for locals tends to be a leisurely three-course meal of the day (menu do dia) in a restaurant or pastelaria, costing €7–15. If you want a sit-down meal but not the three courses, there’s the plate of the day (prato do dia) at €3–6. Typical main meals include fish/pork/beef with potatoes, rice and vegetables. For a quick lunch, toasted sandwiches (tosta mista for ham and cheese, for example) are a cheap and filling option. Dinner (jantar), served from 7–9.30pm, can be eaten at BBQ restaurants (churrasqueira), bars (cervejaria) and seafood restaurants (marisqueira) for €7–15. If you’re on a budget, a bowl of soup (sopa) and basket of bread (pão) will set you back about €2–4, or if travelling as a couple, one portion (dose) shared between two will usually suffice as portion sizes are large. Half-portions may be available – ask for meia dose.
Almost every Portuguese town has their own speciality when it comes to sweet pastries but the most famous of all is the pastel de nata (custard tart). The national dish is salted cod (bacalhau) and it’s said there are more than 365 ways of cooking it! Drinks include wine (vinho verde and Albarinho from the Minho region are very popular), Licor Beirão (a sweet digestif), ginjinha (cherry brandy) and port, among others.
Cover charge (couvert)
Unlike free tapas in Spain, when you sit down in restaurants in Portugal you are often served small plates of food (olives, cheese, bread, meats) that you haven’t ordered. This acts as a cover charge and you will be charged for what you eat, or simply ask for them to be taken away (and you won’t be charged).
Spain
Breakfast (desayuno), served from 8am, usually consists of a croissant, churros (sugary fried stick of dough, often accompanied by a hot chocolate) or toast. A hot drink and pastry/toast will cost around €2–3. Lunch (almuerzo), from 1.30–3pm, varies from a sit-down meal of the day (menú del día, €7–15) or single-course dish (plato combinado, €5–8) in a restaurant, to a filled roll (bocadillo) or slice of tortilla in a café/bar. Bakeries (panadería) and cake shops (pastelaría) also sell savoury snacks, including slices of empanada (like an English pastie but filled with seafood/beef/pork/chicken) which cost €2–5. Dinner (cena) is usually served from 8–10pm. Many bars offer free small tapas when you buy a drink, and raciones are larger portions of tapas, good for sharing with a group.
You’ll encounter regional specialities including oysters (ostras) in Arcade, cuttlefish (chocos) in Redondela, empanadas (Pontevedra’s speciality is empanada de maiz, made with corn flour), Galician-style octopus (pulpo a la Gallega), Padrón peppers (pimientos de Padrón) and Santiago almond tart (tarta de Santiago). Local drinks include wine (Albarino, Ribeiro, Godello, Mencia and more), aguardiente (also known as orujo – distilled liqueur with flavours including herbal, coffee, cream and honey), Estrella Galicia beer and Nordés Galician gin, among others.
Pilgrim menus
These are popular in cafés/restaurants along the Camino, often involving a three-course meal including soup/salad, main meal, dessert and wine/water for about €8–12.
Vegetarians
Meat and seafood dominate menus in both Portugal and Galicia, so vegetarians may feel their choices lacking in comparison to those of meat-eaters. Most restaurants serve salads and soup (although note that caldo verde comes with sliced chorizo in Portugal), and typical sides include potato, rice and vegetables (often cabbage). Staying in albergues/hostels with communal kitchen facilities will allow you to cook your own meals.
Useful information
Via Lusitana
Via Lusitana (www.vialusitana.org) is a friendly pilgrim organisation in Portugal with a 24-hour helpline: (+351) 915 595 213. It operates albergues in Alpriate and Albergaria-a-Velha. To volunteer as a hospitalero or to donate to the association, visit their website for details.
Bedbugs
They may not be a nice thought, but often a topic of conversation along all Caminos is the dreaded bedbug – percevejos in Portuguese, chinches in Spanish. They live in bedding, are mainly active at night and feed on blood. Check the sheets and around the