Soon the pavement ends and, having attained the brush-clad plateau, we meet the northeast-bound East Mesa Trail (1.5; 6500). Camping is allowed throughout the length of that trail (see Trip 15). Turning left, we proceed west across a brushy promontory of the plateau where greenleaf manzanita and Gambel oak are massed thickly along the trail.
Curving south, we soon reach the canyon rim at Observation Point (0.3; 6507), where a breathtaking panorama explodes upon the scene. Great cliffs, mostly of Navajo Sandstone, rise as much as 2500 feet from the wooded floor of Zion Canyon, streaked with red tapestries of iron minerals and dark patches of desert varnish, their faces fluted and etched by ages of falling rock and abrasive waters. These cliffs march southward in a parade of rugged crags to the canyon’s gaping mouth, framing the distant Vermilion Cliffs.
Outstanding landmarks dominating our view include the sentinel tower of Angels Landing and its eastern extension, The Organ, which together divert North Fork Virgin River. To the south are the Yosemite-like walls abutting Cable Mountain and The Great White Throne.
The alignment pattern of tributary canyons becomes apparent from our vantage point. Most of these canyons, of which Hidden Canyon is a prominent example, have been eroded along joints, or fractures, in the Navajo Sandstone, and trend northwest. Also obvious are the effects of downcutting in the Navajo. We can see by looking into the narrow depths of Hidden Canyon that downcutting proceeds at a much faster rate in this rock than does widening. These narrow depths are the result of millions of years of abrasive runoff waters cutting like a bandsaw deep into that rock layer.
In addition to the Navajo, three other sedimentary layers of rock are visible, beginning atop the plateaus where the reddish Temple Cap Formation forms small platforms and buttes. Below the tall Navajo cliffs are narrow red ledges of the Kayenta Formation, and finally the Springdale Sandstone ledge of the Moenave Formation crops out far below on the flanks of the lower canyon.
A green ribbon of trees accompanies the rushing waters of North Fork Virgin River all along the canyon floor. Following its course downstream, our gaze stretches past Zion Lodge toward the mouth of the canyon. The only other evidence of human influence upon the landscape is the red pavement of the Scenic Drive. Its traffic is, unfortunately, audible from our otherwise peaceful vantage point.
Return the way you came.
Trip 11
Riverside Walk, Orderville Canyon
Distance: 2.0 miles, round trip, to the trail’s end; 6.4 miles, round trip, to Orderville Canyon
Low/High elevations: 4418 ’/4490’; 4610’
Suited for: Walk to trail’s end; dayhike to Orderville Canyon.
Difficulty: Easy to end of trail; moderate to mouth of Orderville Canyon
Best season: Trail open all year, but may be snow-covered at times during winter. River hiking is best from May through September.
Map/Trailhead: 3/8
Hazards: Negligible along trail; deep wading beyond trail’s end over a slippery river bottom, and the possibility of flash floods and cold water. Check on river and weather conditions at the Park Visitor Center.
Introduction: Riverside Walk is Zion’s most heavily used trail, and with good reason. Seeping alcoves, luxurious hanging gardens, shady riparian woodlands, a nearly level trail (paved for wheelchair access), and an ever-narrowing and ever-deepening canyon draw visitors from the world over to hike beyond the trail’s end and into The Narrows, one of the classic canyon treks on the Colorado Plateau.
Slicing into the heart of the Markagunt Plateau, the North Fork Virgin River has carved a canyon 1000–2000 feet deep, and ranging in width from 200 yards at the Temple of Sinawava to barely 20 feet above Orderville Canyon.
To negotiate any part of The Narrows beyond the trail, hikers must be well prepared, and must not underestimate the hazards of wading through a knee-deep river in a narrow flash-flood-prone canyon (see Trip 15 for more information). Few trips in Zion are more rewarding, or potentially more dangerous, than wading the Virgin River through The Narrows on a hot, clear summer day. But forays into the canyon from the Temple of Sinawava are for day hiking only. Hikers planning on a backpack through the length of the canyon must first obtain a backcountry permit, and begin at Chamberlain’s Ranch, hiking downstream. Flash flood danger can make this hike life-threatening. Each hiker is responsible for obtaining updated information on river conditions and weather forecasts from the Visitor Center, and each is responsible for their personal safety.
Never hike into The Narrows alone, and be sure to have a sturdy staff for balance and lightweight, rubber-soled shoes for traction on the slippery river bottom. Hikers can obtain a pamphlet at the Park Visitor Center explaining the hazards and precautions one should take before entering the canyon.
Description: Since this trail is the Park’s most popular, expect plenty of company as you stroll up the trail beyond the parking area (0.0; 4418), flanked by the redrock tower of the Temple of Sinawava on one side and the unimposing red spire of The Pulpit on the other. The trail leads upstream, east of the river, in the shadow of tall, broken cliffs. White fir and Douglas-fir stand tall on the canyon walls above us, while the canyon floor is well-shaded by velvet ash and boxelder. Along the way we’ll pass interpretive signs explaining canyon widening, hanging gardens (where the Zion Rock Snail, a species endemic to The Narrows, makes its home), a rockslide, and a perpetually wet desert swamp. Many visitors enjoy picnicking along the rushing river, and some of them may wish to follow a use trail that turns left only 100 yards from the trailhead, quickly leading to the river’s edge.
The trail ends where the canyon bends northeast (1.0; 4490), and hikers unprepared for river hiking are advised to go no farther. But those who are prepared simply plunge into the river, either crossing to the opposite bank or following its waters upstream. The river is usually only knee-deep, but depending on recent rains or snowmelt runoff, it can be much deeper, and swift. Even during low water, expect some holes to be waist-deep or even deeper. Use your staff to probe deep holes as you proceed.
The canyon becomes increasingly narrow, and even in summer, little sunlight penetrates into this narrow corridor. Boxelder grows on riverside benches in tandem with white fir, a tree typically found on the plateaus 3000 feet above. The river meanders below Orderville Canyon, and along this stretch we can crisscross it between sandy benches, following short trails between crossings.
Mystery Falls, a 100’ cascade backdropped by rugged Mountain of Mystery, is the first of many outstanding features we encounter along the way. As we proceed, we’ll pass numerous springs and seeps nurturing verdant hanging gardens that decorate fluted canyon walls that are stained with streaks of red and dark patches of desert varnish.
As we proceed, we should choose our crossings carefully, as the riverbed is strewn with slippery, moss-covered rocks. Black basalt rocks and boulders, eroded from the plateaus far above, are abundant and particularly slick. Approaching Orderville Canyon we are forced into the river more frequently, as the benches are fewer and widely spaced. Orderville Canyon contributes its small stream to the river (2.2; 4620) where it exits a narrow cleft on our right (east).
Strong dayhikers can continue up-canyon about as far as Big Springs (2.1 miles ahead) but many dayhikers go no farther than Orderville Canyon. That canyon is a challenging hike in its own right, but small waterfalls and other obstacles make much of the route passable only to the experienced canyoneer.
On the return trip, wade the river with care.
Trip 12
Canyon Overlook Trail
Distance: 1.0 mile, round trip
Low/High elevations: 5130’/5240’
Suited for: Walk
Difficulty: Moderately easy
Best