With their mild and famously wet climate, these mountains are probably the best place in the world to grow evergreen trees. In addition, the Clatsop and Tillamook State Forests, which administer this land, have traditionally focused almost exclusively on timber harvest, in an effort to maximize state revenues and produce jobs. In fact, until recently, recreation was almost completely ignored, since managers did not see this as part of their mandate. In the last decade or so, however, some of that thinking has changed, and, at least from a hiker’s perspective, all to the better.
After the monumental replanting efforts following the Tillamook Burns of the 1930s and 1940s, much of forest here is uniformly green and impressive, with just enough lingering snags to add scenic and historical interest. Those trees are now ready for harvest, however, so if you want to see this land without the scars of clear-cuts, you’d better hike the trails here soon. More important, now is the time to get involved in the efforts of the Sierra Club, the Audubon Society, and other environmental groups to save at least part of this beautiful landscape from the ravages of the chainsaw.
There are two main access roads into the northern Coast Range. From Portland, go about 20 miles northwest on U.S. Highway 26, better known as the Sunset Highway, to a road split. The main highway continues straight (northwest) toward the popular coastal resorts of Seaside and Cannon Beach. Along the way this highway provides access to the spectacular trail up Saddle Mountain and to several exciting new trails in the Clatsop State Forest. Turning left (southwest) at the road split, onto State Highway 6, gains you access to the much greater number of scenic trails in the Tillamook State Forest.
Saddle Mountain from upper viewpoint
TRIP 1 Gnat Creek
| Distance | 2.5 miles, Out-and-back | |
| Elevation Gain | 150 feet | |
| Hiking Time | 2 hours | |
| Optional Map | USGS Knappa, OR; Cathlamet, WA (trail not shown) | |
| Usually Open | All year | |
| Best Time | Any | |
| Trail Use | Good for kids, dogs OK, fishing | |
| Agency | Clatsop State Forest | |
| Difficulty | Easy | |
| Note | Good in cloudy weather |
HIGHLIGHTS This recently completed trail makes for an enjoyable and relatively easy leg-stretcher for families driving to Astoria. With the sounds of nearby traffic on U.S. Highway 30, the hike is not a wilderness experience, but the dense forest and clear stream are a beautiful and soothing change of pace. In addition, the fish hatchery at trail’s end is educational and entertaining for both young and old.
DIRECTIONS Drive 76 miles north and west of Portland on U.S. Highway 30 to a junction with Gnat Creek Road shortly after milepost 78. Turn right, following signs to Gnat Creek Campground, and drive 0.1 mile on this good gravel road to the large trailhead parking area just before a bridge over Gnat Creek.
After climbing a set of wooden stairs, the trail heads west (upstream) amid a dense, moss-draped, second-growth forest of western hemlocks, Sitka spruces, and western red cedars. The winding but well-built trail remains entirely in forest with lots of mushrooms, deer and sword ferns, salmonberry bushes, and forest wildflowers to keep your interest along the way. Several huge stumps allow visitors to marvel at the size of the trees that once grew here and to mourn the loss of these ancient giants. Views are nonexistent, but the trail passes several places where hikers can look down on the clear, rippling waters of Gnat Creek, which flows about 30 feet below the trail. The only easy access to the water comes at 0.9 mile at a lovely spot on the banks of the creek that makes a perfect picnic location.
At a little more than 1.1 miles the trail crosses Highway 30. Watch carefully for traffic on this busy thoroughfare, the source of all those car and truck sounds you have been hearing from the start of the hike. On the other side of the highway the trail goes 0.1 mile to its end at the Gnat Creek Fish Hatchery. Spend some time touring this facility before returning the way you came.
Backlit red alder
TRIP 2 Northrup Creek Loop
| Distance | 8.5 miles, Loop; 3.8 miles, Out-and-back | |
| Elevation Gain | 1500 feet, Loop; 300 feet, Out-and-back | |
| Hiking Time | 2 to 5 hours | |
| Optional Map | USGS Nicolai Mountain (trail not shown) | |
| Usually Open | All year (except during winter storms) | |
| Best Time | Any | |
| Trail Use | Dogs OK, mountain biking, horseback riding | |
| Agency | Clatsop State Forest | |
| Difficulty | Moderate | |
| Note | Good in cloudy weather |
HIGHLIGHTS Built in 2005, the Northrup Creek Trail cobbles together existing logging roads, abandoned roads, and sections of new trail to form a pleasant loop through a little-known valley in the Coast Range. Although walking the road sections can be tedious, the scenery is generally quite attractive, including forested ridges, riparian areas, meadows, and a lovely creek. The trail is designed for equestrians, but is open to all nonmotorized uses and has surprisingly little of the mud so often associated with horse trails. If you do not have time to do the entire loop, then settle for a much easier out-and-back hike along Northrup Creek. This segment has the nicest scenery and involves no road walking.
DIRECTIONS Drive west on U.S. Highway 26 to the junction with State Highway 103 (the Jewell Road) near milepost 22. Go 9.2 miles north to the junction with Highway 202, turn right (east), and proceed 5.9 miles to a signed junction with Northrup Creek Road. Turn left (north), go 1.7 miles to the end of pavement, and then drive 3.3 miles on good gravel to the large day-use area and trailhead parking lot just after a bridge over Northrup Creek.
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