The route then takes an undulating trail across pastureland to Grosse Scheidegg in the lap of the Wetterhorn, before cutting down the slope towards Grindelwald, but without actually going that far. It is here that the way divides, with one option taking a side trail climbing high above the Upper Grindelwald glacier’s gorge in order to visit the Gleckstein Hut at 2317m, while the original second stage ends at Hotel Wetterhorn midway between Grosse Scheidegg and Grindelwald.
The continuing route retains an ambition to stay high wherever possible, so it cuts across the mouth of the gorge and climbs to a balcony trail easing along the steep flank of the Mattenberg with a bird’s-eye view across to Grindelwald’s hotels. On reaching the end of this balcony, the way divides once more, with one branch striking through the gorge of the Lower Grindelwald glacier and climbing to Berghaus Bäregg, another exciting place in which to spend a night with magnificent views into a vast glacier basin backed by the Fiescherwand. Next day, you leave Bäregg’s lofty eyrie and return downvalley to rejoin the standard route, which crosses the mouth of the gorge, then rises steeply on the south side to gain another balcony path, this time on the lower slopes of the Eiger. Once again, views are impressive and far-reaching.
With Alpiglen within easy reach, the balcony path links up with the popular – and immensely scenic – Eiger Trail, which rises below the mountain’s notorious North Face and continues towards Eigergletscher, where the Jungfraujoch railway burrows into the mountainside. A path climbs onto the right bank lateral moraine of this glacier, and accompanies its drainage below the Jungfrau all the way down to the bed of the Lauterbrunnen Valley in an excessively long and steep – but inspiring – descent that emerges beside the well-known Trümmelbach Falls.
Flanked by towering walls of rock, down which numerous waterfalls spill their rainbows of spray, the Lauterbrunnen Valley is the finest example of a U-shaped, glacier-carved valley in all the Alps, and it marks the midway point of the Tour of the Jungfrau Region.
Of the many visual highlights on the trek to First, the Bachsee is one of the most memorable (Stage 1)
The TJR now wanders past some of these waterfalls on its way to Stechelberg, before entering the secretive upper reaches of the valley. Yet again the trekker is faced with two choices: a long and fairly demanding hike up the east flank towards the unmanned Schmadri Hut, or a much shorter bad weather alternative on the west side of the valley. The two options rejoin at Obersteinberg, after which the TJR climbs over a ridge extending from the Gspaltenhorn which forms the south wall of the deep Sefinental. On one of the toughest stages of the route, the trail continues by ascending the north wall of this tributary valley to finish at the Rotstock Hut, a pleasant manned refuge set among pastures below the Schilthorn.
The west ridge of the Schilthorn (Stage 8)
Known to thousands of tourists who visit the summit each year by cable-car from Mürren, the Schilthorn is a marvellous vantage point from which to study the Jungfrau and its neighbours that flank the Lauterbrunnen Valley. The TJR also visits the summit, but by a ‘sporting route’ along the mountain’s airy west ridge, before descending its east ridge, then dropping to a beautiful jade-green tarn and continuing the descent into the gentle basin of the Blumental, a few minutes’ walk above Mürren. (Should the weather demand you keep off exposed ridges, a much shorter and less demanding alternative avoids the Schilthorn traverse by taking a direct cross-country route to the Blumental.)
The penultimate stage crosses out of the Blumental basin and follows a north-bound trail across rumpled pastures to the Soustal, then continues to the Sulsalp and the little Suls-Lobhorn Hut, with its uninterrupted view of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau turning bronze with the evening alpenglow.
The final section of this scenic trek teeters along a narrow path above the deep Sylertal, crosses a grassy ridge near the Bällehöchst viewpoint, then makes a long winding descent of cattle-grazed pastures into the Saxettal, a lonely valley that drains out at Wilderswil below the Schynige Platte.
Accommodation
There’s no shortage of accommodation on this route, and practically every stage presents several options (see Appendix B). There are hotels, gasthofs, mountain huts and matratzenlagers, mehrbettzimmer(n) (communal dormitories). There are wonderfully romantic berghotels and atmospheric pensions with creaking floors, candlelit dining rooms, gingham curtains and pitchers of water and a basin in the bedrooms reminiscent of Victorian ‘en suite’ facilities! On practically every stage modestly priced dormitories are available and, as meals are provided everywhere, walkers can trek unencumbered by heavy rucksacks.
Accommodation details are given throughout the descriptive text that follows this Introduction, with standard bedrooms and dormitories noted, along with contact telephone numbers and email and website addresses where known. Advance booking is advised, particulary in the height of the summer and at weekends, when accommodation tends to be very busy.
Suggested itineraries
The following itineraries are offered as a planning aid, although a flexible approach is recommended on the actual trek to take account of current conditions. Note that times given do not include rests or photographic delays, for which you should add another 25–50 per cent.
HUT CONVENTIONS
On arrival at a mountain hut, remove boots and leave them (with your trekking poles) in the porch or boot room, and select a pair of special hut shoes or clogs found there – alternatively wear your own trainers.
Locate the hut warden and book bedspace for the night, plus meals.
When convenient go to the dormitory and make your bed in the space allocated; leave a torch handy as the room may not be lit when you need to go there after dark.
Snacks and drinks are available during the day, but meals are served at set times.
It is customary to pay for all services (cash only) the night before you leave.
Before departing, enter your name in the hut book, together with a note of your planned destination.
Traditional dormitory at the Rotstock Hut
Stage 1 Schynige Platte to First (assuming Schynige Platte is reached on the day of travel from home; otherwise see Alternative Stage 1) – 5½hr
Alternative Stage 1 If you miss the last train to Schynige Platte on the day of travel, stay overnight in Wilderswil, then trek Schynige Platte to Berghotel Faulhorn – 4hr
Stage 2 First (or Berghotel Faulhorn) to Hotel Wetterhorn via Grosse Scheidegg (this gives time to visit Grindelwald after booking a bed at the hotel) – 3hr (or 4–4½hr+)
Alternative Stage 2 A highly recommended diversion starts about 2hr from First and climbs to the Gleckstein Hut set high on the slopes of the Wetterhorn (strong walkers only) – 5hr
Alternative Stage 2a Gleckstein Hut to Hotel Wetterhorn (a short but steep descent which gives time to visit Grindelwald) – 2½hr+
Stage 3 Hotel Wetterhorn to Alpiglen – 5hr
Alternative Stage 3 Hotel Wetterhorn to Berghaus Bäregg – 2½–3hr (this option could be combined with Alt. Stage 2a to make a splendid 5–5½hr trek)
Alternative Stage 3a Berghaus Bäregg to Alpiglen – 4–4½hr
Stage 4 Alpiglen to Kleine Scheidegg (Grindelwaldblick) via the Eiger Trail (after checking in at the Grindelwaldblick there should be sufficient time to visit the Männlichen summit viewpoint, or take the train to the Jungfraujoch) – 3½–4hr+