Despite rapid growth to accommodate personnel from the local RAF base during the 20th century, the town retains much of its medieval character, making it a desirable place to live for those working in Cardiff and Bridgend, particularly since the railway station reopened in 2005.
Follow NCN 88 down Burial Lane alongside the 15th-century town hall and out into the countryside. Ride through St Donat’s (25/42 miles) to Marcross (26/41 miles). The American tycoon William Randolph Hearst purchased the medieval St Donat’s Castle, now the Atlantic College, in 1925 and visited annually until 1936, typically with an entourage of film stars and famous politicians. Although the route runs close to the coast it seldom feels like it. If you want to get closer, or perhaps just stop for a break at the clifftop café, turn left down the lane by the inn in Marcross and ride for 1 mile down to Nash Point where the twin towers of the 19th-century, Grade II listed Nash Lighthouse used to provide a clear set of ‘leading lights’ to guide vessels around the dangerous sandbar below the ever-crumbling limestone cliffs.
The two lighthouses at Nash Point
Return to the main road and ride through Monknash (27/40 miles), Broughton (28/39 miles) and Wick (29/38 miles) to Ewenny (32/35 miles) where NCN 88 currently peters out. In the first half of the 20th century the three-storeyed maltings in Broughton was run as a welfare hotel, providing low-cost holiday accommodation for miners’ families from nearby coalfields. Turn right towards Bridgend in the centre of the village and then after 150 metres, turn left along New Inn Road. After 1½ miles, turn left along the A48 for 300 metres (perhaps resorting to the pavement if the road is busy) and then turn right at the unsigned crossroads and follow this lane across the A473 and along an unnamed lane with a weight restriction. At its end, turn left and quickly left again at a staggered crossroads. Follow this narrow lane for just over a mile going straight across the first junction before turning right at a junction around a triangular patch of grass. Ride downhill passing under the M4 and over the railway to Pyle (38/29 miles).
Cross into Croft Coch Road at the traffic lights and pass under the railway. Turn right at its end and follow waymarkers for NCN 4 around in a loop to meet the A48. Turn right and follow the shared-use path for 1 mile, then turn right towards Margam Discovery Centre. Follow NCN 4 around the perimeter of Margam Country Park (41/26 miles), negotiating a pair of narrow iron gates where you may need to remove any panniers to squeeze through. The 850-acre country park contains the remains of an abbey, a Cistercian monastery and Margam Castle; there is also a neo-Gothic house built by local industrialist Christopher Rice Mansel Talbot (1803–1890). After you emerge from the country park, turn right in Margam Village, follow the shared-use path across the M4 motorway and then the A48 and continue through Margam (45/22 miles) to Port Talbot (48/19 miles).
The name Port Talbot was first given to the docks in honour of Christopher Rice Mansel Talbot of Margam Castle, who sponsored their development in the 1830s. Eventually, the name was applied to the conurbation formed when the villages of Baglan, Margam and Aberafan merged into each other. Steel-making started in Port Talbot in the first decade of the 20th century, but the town did not become synonymous with steel until the Abbey Works opened in the 1950s. It soon became the largest steel producer in Europe, employing a labour force of 18,000. Today there are just 4000 employees at the site and like many steel production facilities in the UK and Europe, it has an uncertain future.
Follow NCN 4 signs left across the railway on Oakwood Road, then turn immediately right up Cramic Way joining a path that leads under a flyover across the A4241 and along Riverside Road, with the River Afan to the right and the docks to the left. Cross the footbridge and follow the shared-use path around the roundabout into Afan Way. If you need to make up lost time, continue along the shared-use path that runs alongside Afan Way to rejoin the route at Baglan Energy Park. Follow waymarkers for NCN 4 across the carriageway and over the blue footbridge into Victoria Road. Turn left into Newbridge Road at the traffic lights and follow this road around to join a shared-use path that runs along the front at Aberafan (51/16 miles). After 2 miles follow signs for NCN 4 back inland and ride along Purcell Avenue, Handel Avenue and Seaway Parade to join a shared-use path alongside the A4241 by Baglan Energy Park. Continue along the shared-use path over the M4 and railway and left alongside the A48. Other than for 200 metres in the Swansea suburbs, the final 13 miles of this stage are entirely traffic free.
Cross the roundabout, railway and River Neath on the outskirts of Briton Ferry (54/13 miles) and then follow NCN 4 under the M4, over the A483 and alongside Fabian Way, past mammoth distribution warehouses, to Swansea (60/7 miles), where the shared-use path swings right behind the park and ride car park.
SWANSEA
In its heyday Swansea was a major centre for copper, earning it the nickname Copperopolis. The combination of local coal and easy sea access to the copper mines in Devon and Cornwall made Swansea the ideal location for smelting, and during the 18th and 19th centuries the city boomed, and 60% of all the copper ores imported into Great Britain were smelted locally. Although George Borrow wrote that the town had ‘some remarkable edifices, spacious and convenient quays, and a commodious harbour’, he also said it was ‘large, bustling, dirty and gloomy’.
Today the heavy industry has largely gone and the economy of the city relies on the service sector, such as education, health, finance services and public administration. The UK’s Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency is one of the biggest employers locally.
After riding alongside the Fabian Way for 1½ miles, turn left along the eastern bank of the River Tawe, following signs for NCN 4 towards Mumbles. Cross Sail Bridge and ride around Swansea Bay to Black Pill (65/2 miles). At weekends this stretch of path is very popular with recreational cyclists, joggers and dog-walkers, so progress may be slow. If you are going straight on to Stage 2, turn right at the aptly named Junction Café and follow NCN 4 towards Llanelli. But if you are heading into Mumbles for an overnight stay or simply a break, continue along the shared-use path around the bay for the final 2 miles of this stage.
Mumbles marks the start of the wonderful Gower Peninsula. For the sake of brevity, it is left out of this tour. However, you could stay over in Mumbles for an extra night and enjoy a day without panniers, visiting some of its famous beaches. Mumbles itself is a vibrant seaside village with plenty of shops, restaurants and pubs that attract day-trippers from all over the region. Food fans should try the local oysters. But if you are not so keen on seafood, you will be spoilt for choice when it comes to ice cream parlours.
Looking across Swansea Bay from above Mumbles Pier
Adding in a loop around the Gower Peninsula
The 27-mile loop around the Gower Peninsula starts at Mumbles and rejoins the circular route at Gowerton, adding 20 miles to the circumnavigation. Start at the mini roundabout on the front below Oystermouth Castle and cycle inland along Newton Road towards Caswell. After two-thirds of mile, turn left into Newton Road. Ride up the short hill, turn left at the top and then turn immediately right into Nottage Road and drop down to join Caswell Road.
Turn right by the church and ride around Caswell Bay (2/25 miles) and into Bishopton (3/24 miles). Turn left along Pyle Road and then after another mile turn left along the B4426 towards Port Eynon. Ride through Kittle to Pennard (6/21 miles) and then turn right into Linkside Drive and follow it to the junction with the B4118 in the centre of Parkmill (5/22 miles). Turn left and ride through Penmaen (7/20 miles) and Nicholaston (8/24 miles) and then turn left by the gatehouse of Penrice Castle. Ride through Oxwich (10/17 miles), then turn left towards Horton.
If you are staying overnight at the hostel in Port Eynon, turn left when you meet the A4118. Otherwise turn right, ride through Scurlage (15/12 miles) and then turn left towards Burry Green. Turn right