Pests
In general the flora and fauna in this part of the world are unlikely to cause you any harm, but there are a few things you need to look out for.
Ticks
The incidence of Lyme Disease caused by a bite from a tick, a small parasite, has been on the increase in Scotland. It is a serious and potentially fatal disease. Ticks are common in woodland, heathland and areas of Scotland where deer graze. Insect repellent and long trousers are the best prevention and you should check yourself regularly. Ticks can be removed by gripping them close to the skin with tweezers and pulling backwards without jerking or twisting. Don’t try to burn them off. Symptoms of Lyme Disease vary but can include a rash and flu-like symptoms that are hard to diagnose. Most cases of Lyme Disease can be cured with antibiotics, especially if treated early in the course of illness. The Mountaineering Council of Scotland has a useful tick advice video on its website: www.mcofs.org.uk.
Midges
Midges are a voracious scourge of the western Highlands, at their peak between the end of May and early October. There are more than 40 species of biting midge in Scotland, but luckily only five of these regularly feed on people. Even so, their bite causes itching and swelling that can last several days. Unless you’ve experienced the sensation of being ‘eaten alive’ by a cloud of Scottish midges, it’s hard to understand just how unpleasant they can be. In summer, they can generally be relied upon to spoil beautiful lochside sunsets. Unfortunately the Cape Wrath Trail passes through through the very heart of midge country. The only real prevention is insect repellent or physical barriers such as head nets. From experience DEET based repellent products work most effectively, although they have an unpleasant aroma of chemicals and should be kept away from plastics and sensitive fabrics like Gore-Tex. Citronella candles also work well and many people swear by Avon Skin So Soft (available from www.avon.uk.com).
Some people maintain that light-coloured clothing also keeps midges at bay, although I haven’t personally noted a particular preference for the high fashion hues of modern outdoor gear. Unfortunately even when repellents are used without a physical barrier such as a net, midges will still land and crawl on you. The good news is that midges can’t fly in even the gentlest of breezes, which are not usually in short supply in this part of the world and they dislike strong sunlight (should you see any). Such is the impact of the Scottish midge that it now has its own forecast and Apple iPhone app. For more information see www.midgeforecast.co.uk.
Weather
River Dessarry (Stage 3)
The northwestern Highlands of Scotland is one of the wettest places in Europe, with annual rainfall of up to 4,500mm (180 inches) falling on as many as 265 days a year. Due to the mountainous terrain, warm, wet air is forced to rise on contact with the coast, where it cools and condenses, forming clouds. Atlantic depressions bring wind and clouds regularly throughout the year and are a common feature in the autumn and winter. Like the rest of the United Kingdom, prevailing wind from the southwest brings around 30 days of severe gales each year. The combined effect of wind and rain can make walking hazardous at times, even in relatively low-lying areas, so you should always have an escape plan.
Emergencies
In an emergency, dial 999, ask for the police, then state that you need mountain rescue. Be ready to give a detailed situation report – the mnemonic ‘CHALET’ may help you remember vital information under pressure:
Casualties – number, names (and, if known, age), type of injuries (for example lower leg, head injury, collapse, drowning)
Hazards to the rescuers – for example, strong winds, rock fall
Access – the name of mountain area and description of the terrain. It may also be appropriate to describe the approach and any distinguishing features of your location (for example an orange survival bag). Information on the weather conditions at the incident site is also useful, particularly if you are in cloud or mist
Location of the incident – a grid reference and a description. Don’t forget to give the map sheet number and state if the grid reference is from a GPS device
Equipment at the scene – for example, torches, other mobile phones (including their numbers), group shelters, medical personnel
Type of incident – a brief description of the time and apparent cause of the incident.
If you are unable to telephone for help, use a whistle and repeat a series of six long blasts, separated by a gap of one minute. Carry on the whistle blasts until someone reaches you and don’t stop because you’ve heard a reply, as rescuers may be using your blasts to help locate you. At night use a torch to signal in the same pattern.
A service now enables texts to be sent to the emergency number 999 when voice calls cannot be made, but where there is sufficient signal to send a text. To use the service you’ll need to pre-register via a text – send ‘register’ to 999 and you’ll get a reply with further instructions. If using the service in an emergency, you should wait until you receive a reply from the emergency services before assuming help has been summoned. Further details, including guidelines on how to register, can be found at www.emergencysms.org.uk.
Money and communications
It’s a good idea to carry a supply of cash with you as cards are not universally accepted and cashpoints are few and far between. Cashpoints can be found in Fort William, Kinlochewe, Ullapool and Kinlochbervie (located in the Spar supermarket at the harbour).
Post Offices can be found in the larger towns (Fort William, Strathcarron, Kinlochewe, Ullapool and Kinlochbervie) and most small villages have post boxes. Post Offices may also hold parcels for collection (they need to be addressed to the Post Office itself and marked ‘Post Restante’ and you’ll need photo identification to collect: see www.postoffice.co.uk for more details). Most hotels and hostels will also hold parcels for residents if you ask them in advance.
Mobile phone coverage is distinctly patchy in the northwest Highlands and shouldn’t be relied upon. If you’re worried about mobile phone coverage, ‘pay-as-you-go’ SIM cards for the main UK networks can be bought cheaply and used in ‘unlocked’ mobile phones to ensure you can connect to any available network. Internet data access via mobile phone is rarely possible outside larger areas of civilisation and even then it’s likely to be a slow GPRS connection rather than 3G or 4G. An increasing number of hotels offer internet access via wi-fi.
English is spoken throughout the Scottish Highlands, although the broad local brogue can sometimes take a bit of getting used to if English is not your first language. You may also encounter some Gaelic, a beautiful but rarely spoken language.
Preparation and planning
Stand of pines, Glen Dessarry (Stage 3)
It is with some justification that the Cape Wrath Trail is regarded as the toughest long-distance backpacking trail in Britain. Dotted here and there, you may come across signs that guard the entry to particularly remote sections: ‘Take Care – You are entering remote, sparsely populated, potentially dangerous mountain country – Please ensure that you are adequately experienced and equipped