Nearing the Refuge du Carro on the first day of the Carro/Evettes tour
Emergencies
Where necessary (ie. when the route is not obvious or where the logistics are complicated) details of the quickest ways to reach civilisation in the event of bad weather or an accident occuring have been given. Often these escape routes are quite long but they are the fastest ways to evacuate an accident victim or the best ways out in bad weather.
It must be remembered that mobile phone coverage, away from ski-resorts, is still not perfect. The emergency services can be contacted by dialling 18.
The mountains are much more hostile in winter than in summer and the rescue services, although they will do their best, may not be able to reach accident victims quickly. In one famous case in 1998, four ski tourers were trapped by bad weather near the Col de la Vanoise. They survived the ten days it took the rescue services to find them because they were extremely well equipped. Having the right equipment, and knowing how to use it, is vitally important.
N.B. All decisions about where to go, or even whether to go at all, must be taken by the individuals concerned, taking into account the weather and snow conditions at the time.
Equipment
It is possible to buy touring adaptors for standard downhill bindings but, for all but the shortest of tours, it is worth considering having special touring skis, boots and bindings. The gains in weight and comfort during the climb more than compensate for the loss of performance during the descent.
A full set of touring gear is a big investment but it is possible to rent touring gear in many of the larger towns and resorts. A week’s rental for touring skis, skins, boots, poles, avalanche transceiver, snow shovel and avalanche probe cost around 150€ to 200€ in 2002. As ski touring is growing in popularity, more and more outdoor shops have gear to rent: the local tourist office (see Appendix 3) should be able to give details of where you can rent ski touring gear (matériel de ski de randonnée in French).
Telemark skiers do not have to invest so heavily; all they need to add to standard telemark gear is a set of skins and couteaux/harscheisen.
It is often a good idea to carry a pair of crampons; the rock-hard nevé that you climb in the morning can turn into perfect spring snow by lunchtime. When touring in the high mountains you should also take standard glacier gear (ie. ice-axe, rope, harness, one or two ice-screws, slings and prussick loops or jumars).
Avalanche transceivers are not an unnecessary luxury. These small devices, when correctly used, allow an avalanche victim to be found very quickly. Each member of the party should have one and know how to use it. They should be turned on and tested at the beginning of each day, even if the snow-pack seems perfectly stable. The day you decide to leave it at home is the day you will be caught by a very unexpected avalanche. The transceiver should allow you to localise the victim to within a metre or two, at which point an avalanche probe will be necessary to pinpoint him/her. Transceivers are of little use unless you also have a snow shovel to dig a buried friend out of an avalanche.
Approaching the summit of Mont Bellacha on the second day of the Lauzière tour
Leaving the Refuge du Fond d’Assois on Day 4 of the Glaceirs de la Vanoise tour
A map and compass are also essential items. An altimeter, or a GPS if you are feeling rich and technologically minded, can prove useful, especially in poor visibility.
In terms of clothing it is better to use a multi-layer system so you can adapt your clothing to the conditions. Standard alpine walking/climbing clothing will suffice but with perhaps an extra layer (or two). Even in February it is sometimes possible to be in shorts and t-shirt for the climb but thermals, fleece jackets and a duvet are very welcome as soon as you stop. Two pairs of gloves, a lightweight pair for the climb and standard ski gloves for the descent, make life more comfortable.
Skinning uphill burns calories at an incredible rate so it is important to eat, and even more so to drink regularly. Carry at least 1½ litres of water. Camelback type drinking systems are ideal in spring but the drinking tubes are rather prone to freezing in winter.
For one or two day trips a 35 to 40-litre rucksack is big enough. For longer tours a 45 to 55-litre rucksack is better.
Maps
The sketch maps that I have included in this guide are only designed to give an overall view of the layout of the tours and to help with orientation on the relevant topographical map.
Large-scale maps are essential for ski touring as paths, cairns and even sign-posts are generally covered by the snow. Following other people’s tracks is not recommended, unless you are certain that they are going to the same place as you and that the people who made the tracks know what they are doing. In navigational terms, you are on your own!
By far the best and most detailed maps available are the IGN Top 25 series, published by the French national survey at a scale of 1:25,000. There is also a series of 1:50,000 scale maps, published by Didier Richard. Obviously it is cheaper to buy the larger scale maps and they are ideal for planning, but the extra detail provided by the 1:25,000 maps is invaluable should you get caught in bad weather.
Both map series show a selection of ski tours, some of which are included in this guide. The itineraries marked on the topographical maps are indicative only and the routes that I describe are not always the same as those on the maps.
Mountain Huts
This area is very well served by huts. Most of them are run by the French Alpine Club or the Vanoise National Park but there are also a number of private huts.
Inside the Refuge du Fond des Fours
During the winter months there will only be a small part of each hut open and the warden will not be present. These winter huts usually supply blankets, gas, stoves, pans and eating utensils and have a wood burning fire. The only things that you need to bring are food, matches, candles and a torch, and perhaps a sheet sleeping bag for a bit of extra comfort.
This is the case for all the huts used for the tours in this guide, with the exception of the huts used in the Belledonne. These huts are quite rudimentary; they only supply mattresses and a wood-burning stove for heating. It is necessary to take your own stove, cooking utensils and a sleeping bag.
The toilet facilities tend to be very basic or non-existent in winter. To protect what is a very fragile environment it is a good idea to burn your toilet paper or to take it down with you for disposal.
The unrestricted access to these huts is increasingly being called into question because of the thoughtless minority who abuse the system. It is essential to leave the hut in the state in which you would like to find it and to pay for your night’s accommodation. The use of these huts is not free, but rates are very reasonable, usually 10 to 12€ per night. Payment is based on an honesty system; money should be put in the envelopes provided and placed in the letterbox. Without this network of huts, and the facilities they provide, ski touring would be much more uncomfortable. Please, do not be among the selfish few who put this service in jeopardy for everyone else.
Skinning back up to the Refuge du Merlet (Alternative Day 4 of the Belledonne tour)
Descent from the Col du Villonet on Day 6 in the Belledonne with the Puy Gris in the background
Many of the