lightweight walking boots with good grip – essential for dealing with rough terrain, scree and steep slopes
wind- and waterproof jacket and overtrousers
warm clothing such as fleece jacket, hat and gloves – even in summer
brimmed hat, sunglasses, suncream and lip salve
trekking poles – useful for crossing streams and rocky ground, and help reduce strain on leg joints
rucksack with waterproof cover and liner
closed cell sitmat to be used as an insulated seat on damp ground or rocks
map and compass and/or GPS
first aid kit
sleeping bag liner (for use in mountain huts)
Climbing/mountaineering
The Swiss Alps have some of the finest, most historic and challenging of all the world’s mountains, among which even a modest ascent can reward with memorable adventures played out in a fabulous setting. The 4000m peaks may jostle at the top of an ambitious climber’s tick-list, yet numerous ‘lesser peaks’ would be worth the attention of anyone with a sense of adventure. This book suggests where some of these adventures may be won.
There are essential differences, of course, between climbing in Britain and climbing in the Alps; altitude for a start. Britain’s highest summit (Ben Nevis) is 1344m, while most alpine climbs are on peaks of 3000m and more. While a day’s mountaineering in Britain can net several summits, many alpine climbs are spread over two days – the first spent on the approach to a hut, with the second day devoted to the climb itself, followed by descent to the valley.
The East Summit of Piz Palü (Chapter 4:4)
The icy heart of a glacier – to avoid close acquaintance rope up and stay alert!
The sheer scale and variety of alpine scenery is another major difference, and in Switzerland alone a climber could spend a lifetime of active holidays in one area after another without repeating a single route. But in the Alps climbing is a more serious business than in non-alpine areas, with objective dangers that should never be ignored. Rockfall, for example, can occur on almost any route, seracs can topple without prior warning, and even the most innocent-looking glacier may have hidden crevasses.
To climb safely in the Alps involves a number of skills, including a combination of rope management, route-finding ability, appreciation of snow and ice conditions, crevasse identification and an understanding of crevasse rescue, as well as fitness and good acclimatisation.
Knowledge of alpine mountains and mountaineering only comes with experience, but is essential to enable the climber to select a route that is in good condition, to recognise potentially hazardous snow and ice conditions, to detect the presence of crevasses, and predict changing weather patterns. Experience tells the climber what time to set out, when it is safest to deal with difficult or dangerous sections of the route, when and where the greatest threat of avalanche lies, or where rock is likely to be free from a glaze of ice.
Navigational skills are essential for safety and success in the mountains. Correct route-finding on both rock and glacier will save time and energy and limit a climbing party’s exposure to danger. Close scrutiny of the appropriate maps and guidebook (where one exists) will be extremely useful. But with glacial recession and rockfall changing the mountains from one season to the next, quizzing other climbers who have recently done the route will often be the most beneficial approach. When on rock finding the correct way can be helped by signs of previous climbers, but beware of following other parties unless you’re sure that they are on the same route you wish to climb. If the moves are much harder (or easier) than the grade your chosen route warrants, there’s a good chance you’re off-route.
As well as rock, snow and ice climbing skills, rope management should be practised in advance on climbs at home until they’re second nature. But the alpine environment has demands beyond those of Britain’s mountains, for safe movement on glaciers, for example, involves its own technique. While ‘dry’ glaciers (bare of snow) are usually safe to cross because crevasses are clearly visible, on snow-covered (‘wet’) glaciers where crevasses are hidden, parties should cross roped together 15m apart. Three on a rope is the minimum for safety on a glacier (four for preference), but even then it’s not easy for two people to haul one unfortunate victim from a crevasse. Crevasse rescue is a skill that all would-be alpinists should practise.
Being fit on arrival in the Alps enables a party to move quickly and safely over a variety of terrain, and combined with good acclimatisation and stamina will allow them to complete long and arduous routes without fatigue impairing their judgement. Speed and efficiency equal safety.
ALPINE INSTRUCTION FOR BEGINNERS
Basic skills can be learned to an extent from various instruction manuals and DVDs, but mountaineering courses have a more immediate practical impact. Among those based in the Alps, the International School of Mountaineering (ISM) run alpine courses from their operations centre in Leysin (www.alpin-ism.com). Alpine instruction is also given by qualified British Mountain Guides (www.bmg.org.uk), and a number of commercial organisations run courses and mountaineering holidays in the Alps. Study advertisements in the outdoor press for details. For an entertaining primer, John Barry’s Alpine Climbing (Crowood Press, 1995) is highly recommended.
With their snow cover gone, ‘dry’ glaciers like this are safer to cross as crevasses should be clearly visible
Clothing and equipment for climbing/mountaineering
The list below is neither comprehensive nor prescriptive, but offered as a general guide for an alpine summer. If technical climbing is not on the agenda, a number of these items will not be required.
A comfortable, well-adjusted rucksack (40–50 litres) with compression straps, and a waterproof liner.
Clothing should be lightweight wherever possible. Layers allow flexibility with the varying temperatures encountered during an alpine climb; a thermal vest as a base layer is preferred. Trousers of a stretch material are ideal. Overtrousers should have long zips so they can be pulled on and off over crampons.
Two pairs of gloves will be needed; an inner pair with leather palms allow good grip for technical climbing, while lined mittens provide protection in cold conditions.
A fleece hat, brimmed sunhat and climbing helmet are all essential.
Comfortable leather boots for most climbs in summer, but plastic boots in winter, in extra cold conditions, and for the very highest summits. Crampons must be compatible with your boots (plus point covers or a thick bag for safety in travel).
Full length gaiters help keep legs and feet dry when ploughing through snow.
A climbing sit-harness; ice axe (minimum 50cm) with curved pick, and an ice hammer.
A single 9–10mm rope (minimum length 40m) is fine for glaciers and non-technical climbs. For advanced routes two 9mm ropes allow longer abseils on descent. Each member of a climbing party should carry spare cord or tape to back up any suspect abseil point; a belay plate, descender and two prusiks – and know how to use them.
On many climbs essential bolts and pegs are often in place (treat all in situ gear with caution), but runners, slings and karabiners will be needed, and depending on the route, ice screws, friends, quick-draws and a full set