However, it should be remembered that the Zillertal is not necessarily a tame area in comparison with the Western Alps, as these mountains can challenge even the most experienced. Whatever your aspirations, you will not be disappointed.
Gruss Gott und sehr gut Zillerbergtouren.
When to go
The Hochfeiler (3510m), highest peak in the Zillertal (end of STT Stage 3)
The summer season usually starts in mid-June, when the huts open, and ends in late September, when the huts close. During this time the paths and passes are relatively free of snow.
June is early season and not the best time to visit, as it is not unusual to come across large amounts of old snow lying on north-facing slopes, such as those of the Lapen Scharte.
In July, the weather is warmer and the winter snow further recedes, although there are more people in the mountains and at the huts.
August is seen as the peak season when most Europeans take their holidays. The huts are at their busiest. The weather is at its most settled, although it is not unusual to see cloud build up late in the mornings and thunderstorms in the evenings. August is when most of the villages in the Zillertal hold their summer church festivals known as Kirchtags. They are extremely good fun, and it is well worth a visit to villages such as Stumm and Finkenberg, where the village will be set up with market stalls, street entertainment, local crafts and lots of music for a good day out, to be thoroughly enjoyed by all.
September announces the onset of autumn. The weather will be cooler and the huts quieter as they head towards the end of the season.
For a two-week holiday, the middle of July or the first two weeks in September are recommended.
Getting there
Getting to Austria is relatively straightforward no matter how you decide to travel. For the ZRR your first point of contact with the Zillertal valley is at the major road and railway intersection at the industrial town of Jenbach, in the Inn valley. Thereafter, the 50km (30-mile), 1hr journey up the Zillertal valley by road or rail leads to the resort town of Mayrhofen, the starting point of the ZRR (and the alternative start point for the ZSTT). Those undertaking the ZSTT need to head to Innsbruck, the provincial capital of Tyrol, before continuing by regional train to the small town of Steinach am Brenner, near the start point of the tour. (See Appendix C for a glossary of useful German–English travel words and phrases.)
By air (and rail)
Even if you travel by air, which is the quickest way to get to Austria and the Zillertal, for those undertaking the ZRR there is not always sufficient time to leave the United Kingdom in the early morning, catch a train to Jenbach and Mayrhofen, and then travel on to one of the huts before nightfall. It is better to stay overnight in Mayrhofen and then continue your journey the day after. However, if you are travelling light and have no hold-ups, it is just about possible to get to the Edel Hut by early evening. Similarly, for those undertaking the ZSTT it is better to stay overnight in Innsbruck or Steinach am Brenner.
Munich is the main entry point (from London, Manchester, Birmingham), but flights also go to Salzburg and Innsbruck (from London). Some of the major operators, particularly Lufthansa, have several flights a day from London, Manchester and Birmingham. Other budget carriers also operate from Luton, Gatwick and Stansted. (See Appendix B for airline websites.)
Although travelling by air gets you to mainland Europe quickly, you may lose precious time transferring to the railway station, the Hauptbahnhof, and may experience frustrating delays and hold-ups just finding your way about.
At Munich, the airport connects direct with the regional railway network, where there are frequent trains every 30mins or so. Follow the train signs DB and S. You need a pre-paid ticket before getting on the train. Do not push your luck without a ticket, as the Germans do not take kindly to freeloaders no matter where they come from. Be warned. There is a railway booking office in the airport arrivals hall adjacent to the concession counters for car hire, hotel reservations and so on. This facility is not always open, but if it is get your ticket to Jenbach hin und zuruck (there and back) if you are coming back the same way. There are frequent express trains every 2hrs or so. Once on your journey, get off the regional train at Munchen Ost (Munich East), listen to the announcements, and change platforms to get on one of the inter-city trains (schnell zug). Look out for the matrix sign boards at the station and on the side of the train, and get on the first one that has Innsbruck on it or Brennero, Venezia or Venedig – anything heading into Italy or Switzerland will do, as they all have to go via Jenbach.
If the ticket office is closed at Munich airport you can get your ticket at Munich East – the ticket office is at road level with other shops and fast food outlets. With express trains it is also possible to pay on the train, sometimes at a premium, if you can show that you had to rush and didn’t have enough time to get to the ticket office.
Railway tickets may also be purchased in advance and online by visiting www.bahn.de. There is a thumbnail Union Flag icon for English speakers to click.
At Jenbach, there is a local bus service and a narrow-gauge railway to the roadhead at Mayrhofen. This journey takes about 1hr. The last train to Mayrhofen is at 19.44, and the last bus at 21.08.
Mayrhofen Bahnhof railway station, with Dampfzug Puffing Billy train and the Ahorn Spitze on the left-hand skyline
Jenbach is the home of the Zillertal railway and its collection of old steam locomotives, known as the Dampfzug. But, more famed as Thomas the Tank Engine or simply Puffing Billy, these charming little trains are every kid’s delight. One of these little trains travels up and down the Zillertal valley throughout the season, pulling behind it 100-year-old bright red carriages. If you have children with you, the Dampfzug is a fitting way to start or end your journey in the Zillertal. There are only two Dampfzug trains per day, and many of the seats are reserved in advance, so plan your journey well (Jenbach/Mayrhofen 10.32/15.16; Mayrhofen/Jenbach 13.06/17.06).
At Salzburg, take Line 2 bus service from the airport to the Hauptbahnhof, from where a rail ticket can be purchased to Jenbach or Innsbruck. Journey time is just over 1hr, travelling west along the Inn valley.
At Innsbruck, from the airport there are a bus service and taxis to Innsbruck city centre and the Hauptbahnhof main railway station. Then take the regional train service to Jenbach or Steinach am Brenner.
By rail
Consult with Eurostar, but the two most commonly used routes are as follows. Each route gets travellers to Innsbruck and Jenbach within 18hrs of leaving London.
London–Dover–Calais–Paris–Zurich–Innsbruck–Jenbach
London–Dover–Ostend–Brussels–Munich–Jenbach
Check these websites for further details.
German Railways DB (Deutsche Bundesbahn), www.bahn.de
Austrian Railways OBB (Osterreichische Bundesbahnen), www.oebb.at
Verkehrsverbund Tirol, www.vvt.at
Post bus, www.postbus.at
Zillertal railway, www.zillertalbahn.at