Looking to the jagged peaks beside the Bocca a e Porte from the rocky shore of Lac de Capitellu (Link from Bocca a Soglia to Bergeries de Grotelle)
By road and rail
Those travelling overland through France by car, coach or train will find that ports such as Nice or Marseille provide the most straightforward ferry connections to Corsica. Check with Eurolines, www.eurolines.com, or Eurostar, www.eurostar.com, to find good coach or rail connections to the ports. Travelling overland to Nice or Marseille to catch an onward Air Corsica, www.aircorsica.com, flight to Corsica could also be considered.
By sea
Ferries from ports such as Nice and Marseille serve the four main Corsican ports of Ajaccio, Bastia, Calvi and Porto Vecchio, but some ferries serve Île Rousse and Propriano. There are also ferries to Corsica from other ports in France and Italy. When linking overland travel with ferry timetables, be sure to check schedules and timetables carefully, with due regard to check-in times, to ensure a smooth transfer. The main ferry operators are SNCM, www.sncm.fr, La Méridionale, www.lameridionale.fr and Corsica Ferries, www.corsicaferries.biz. Two minor operators are Moby Lines, www.moby.it and Saremar, www.saremar.it.
Taking or hiring a car
Taking a car to Corsica is not a particularly good idea, except for back-up purposes, and even then its use will be limited. Apart from the beginning and end of the GR20, the route is accessible at only seven other points for vehicles. Trekkers would take time to reach all those points, while the back-up driver would need to pursue other interests for the days between each meeting point. Cars can be hired at the airports and ferryports.
Getting around Corsica
By train
Travel by train is remarkably simple. There is in effect one line between Ajaccio and Bastia, with a branch line running to Calvi. The junction is at Ponte Leccia, and the railway crosses the course of the GR20 at its midpoint at Vizzavona. The line is operated by Chemins de Fer de La Corse, www.cf-corse.fr. There is no harm picking up a timetable whether you plan to use the railway or not. Stations can be contacted as follows: Ajaccio 04 95 23 11 03, Bastia 04 95 32 80 61, Calvi 04 95 65 00 61, Corte 04 95 46 00 97, and Île Rousse 04 95 60 00 50.
Bear in mind that one timetable covers the peak summer period, while other timetables flank it, and yet another covers the winter period. Check the dates that timetables are valid, as they could change during the course of a trek along the GR20. On a daily basis, most trains operate from Monday to Friday, with variations on Saturday, and very few services on Sunday. Some small country halts are request stops, so use a hand signal to stop a train, or if already on the train, tell the conductor in good time to stop.
By bus
If travelling by bus, it is essential to check and double-check timetables. There are several bus operators, but some services operate only run in July and August, and there is no central authority issuing information. A useful website is www.corsicabus.org, which attempts to gather all services and timetables into a single place.
When you wish to catch a bus, be sure to turn up early and ask someone exactly where the departure point for the bus is located, as bus stops are rare. Bear in mind that some buses look very plain, and it may not be immediately obvious that they are being used for public transport. Most coaches are comfortable and air-conditioned, but some services are operated using more basic minibuses.
Buses usually leave on time, but delays are commonplace, so beware if you are trying to achieve a fairly tight connection somewhere along the way. Individual bus services and contact details are mentioned as appropriate throughout this guidebook. Some short shuttle-bus services are referred to as navettes, and this term is also used for complimentary transport offered by accommodation providers.
By taxi
Taxis are available at all the airports and ports, in all the main towns, and in many villages and rural locations. The telephone numbers of certain taxi companies and individuals are given throughout this guidebook, since they may offer the only chance to reach or leave some of the places along or near the GR20. Fares may be metered or fixed, although you may be able to agree a price. Most drivers charge extra in the evenings and on Sundays, and there may be a small charge for your baggage too.
For short journeys, when you want to keep moving, a taxi is good value, but for a long transfer round the island, it will be very, very expensive. Bear in mind that on a long journey, you may have to contribute towards the driver’s long journey home. A general rule of thumb is that a long taxi journey will cost ten times more than the bus fare.
Getting to the GR20
Calvi has an airport and a ferryport close to the northern end of the GR20
From Calvi
Simply leave the airport and grab the first available taxi. Ask to be taken to Calenzana. One look at your pack and the driver will guess you are heading for the GR20. He may refer to the route with a word that sounds like jairvan – get used to the sound! If you have already arranged accommodation in Calenzana, leave it to the driver to take you there. The telephone numbers of some of the taxi drivers are given in the section about Calenzana.
If reaching Calvi by ferry, either take a taxi to Calenzana, or wait for the once-a-day bus in July and August, operated by Beaux Voyages, tel 04 95 65 11 35 or 04 95 65 08 26, www.corsicar.com. This bus only operates on schooldays for the rest of the year. Buses, taxis and trains all operate close to the Place de la Porteuse d’Eau, which is near the railway station in Calvi and only a short walk from the port. If only trekking half of the GR20, north or south from Vizzavona, then it is easy to catch the train, tel Calvi 04 95 65 00 61, www.cf-corse.fr. Calvi tourist information office is nearby at Port de Plaisance, tel 04 95 65 16 67, www.balagne.corsica.com.
From Bastia
There are daily buses between the airport and Bastia, operated by the Société des Autobus Bastiais, tel 04 95 31 06 65, www.bastiabus.com. Alternatively, use Les Taxis de l’Aéroport, tel 04 95 36 04 65, www.corsica-taxis.com. Buses from Bastia to Calvi run daily from late