The odor from garlic, which keeps many people from eating it, is the result of a chemical action activated by mincing and pressing the clove. The greater the damage to the cell membrane, the more it will smell. Slicing and bruising will produce less odor than mincing and pressing. Also, blanching or parboiling unpeeled garlic before using will render the garlic almost odorless, as will long cooking. Another way to combat garlic odor is to chew parsley or some other chlorophyll-rich green after eating it. (Perhaps the best way to cope with garlic's aromatic property is to get everybody you know to eat it!) Use at least the amount of garlic called for in the recipes, which specify that the cloves be large.
Ginger Root This fresh gnarled root, with an aromatic, sweet, spicy, penetrating taste, is another indispensable ingredient in Asian cooking. In the past it was available only in Asian grocery stores but now it is in the produce section of every supermarket. Peel and discard the brown skin and grate or mince the flesh. Powdered ginger cannot be substituted.
Lemon Grass Fresh or dried, lemon grass is an essential flavor in Southeast Asian cooking. It has a bulbous root and long thin bladelike leaves with a lovely lemony fragrance. It is a hardy plant and can be grown in a pot in almost any climate. A few inches are added whole to flavor a dish. Brewed in boiling water, the leaves make a wonderful herbal tea. Crated lemon rind and lemon juice is suggested as a substitute.
Mushrooms Only two varieties of dried mushrooms are used in these recipes. Dried Chinese and Japanese black mushrooms (shiitake), also known as "fragrant mushrooms," are shaped like an umbrella and have a unique flavor. They must be soaked before using and the soaking liquid is used as a stock in soups as well as in other dishes, in both Japanese and Chinese cooking. Another type of mushroom is shaped like an ear. The most common is variously known as "tree ear," "cloud ear," or "wood ear." (The Japanese name for it, ki-kurage, literally means "tree jellyfish.") It is prized not for its taste, which is almost negligible, but for its unique crunchy texture. It also must be soaked before cooking.
Noodles Four varieties of noodles have been used in the recipes in this book. They are available in Asian grocery stores and in some supermarkets. Cellophane noodles, or mung-bean threads, are thin translucent noodles made from ground mung beans and dried on looped skeins. The Japanese name for these noodles is hamsame [spring rain]. Rice vermicelli, or "rice sticks," are very thin rice-flour noodles. Udon are thick wheat-flour noodles used in Japanese cooking. Spaghetti may be substituted for udon. Sōmen, also used in Japanese cooking, are very fine white, wheat-flour noodles. Very fine vermicelli may be substituted for sōmen.
Pepper See black pepper, chili peppers
Rice Rice is the most important food in the Asian diet and a staple food for more than half the world. Chinese records of rice cultivation go back 4,000 years. There are countless varieties of rice, and, as any Asian cook can tell you, such facts as how old the rice is, where and how it was grown, as well as its color, flavor, aroma, tenderness, and stickiness make a big difference in how much satisfaction is derived from eating it. For example, in Japan, November, the month of harvest, is the time when rice (gohan) tastes best. It will take on a special name (shinmai [new rice]), and it will require less water for cooking than last year's crop.
Every country of Asia has its own standard of quality. Some like it dry and flaky, others prefer it sticky and glossy. Even the method of boiling rice varies widely from place to place. But besides its importance for centuries as the main sustainer of life, rice has deep religious and psychological associations.
In some Eastern languages, the words for rice and food (meal) are identical. Many ceremonies have arisen in connection with planting and harvesting rice based on the notion that rice has a spirit that must be propitiated. In some farming communities, even the cutting implement that is used to harvest rice may be sacred to the rice goddess and therefore cannot be forsaken for new and more efficient cutting methods. In Thailand, when the rice plants begin to seed, the Thai expression is that the rice becomes pregnant. In China, when one loses a job, it is referred to as "breaking one's rice bowl."
Only three varieties of rice are used in the recipes in this book: long-grain white rice, short or medium-grain Japanese rice, and long-grain brown rice. Basmati rice is suggested in the Indian recipes, but it is expensive and difficult to find. Long-grain rice becomes quite fluffy and the grains tend to remain separate after cooking, whereas short-grain becomes more sticky and the grains tend to cling to one another. Brown rice is gaining favor in the United States because a more health-conscious public is aware that many nutrients are lost in the polishing process. Strange as it may seem, in some Asian countries brown rice is scorned for human consumption and is used to feed livestock. Recently, however, some Chinese restaurants in California have begun offering brown rice on their menus. To wash or not to wash rice, that is the question. The debate goes on. I find it unnecessary and wasteful of nutrients, although Asian cooks will agree on nothing else. The amount of water required to cook rice varies depending on its age. In general, if rice is old and therefore very dry, more water will be needed. For more about rice, please refer to the recipes themselves.
Soybean Curd Bean curd, also known by its Japanese name, tofu, is a high-protain food made from soybeans. It has a delicate, custardy consistency and though quite bland on its own, it readily absorbs the flavors of other foods, making it a useful extender. In the United States it comes packed in water in plastic tubs, in soft, medium-firm, and firm consistencies. When it is labeled "regular" it is medium-firm. Rinse packaged curd after opening. Then cover with cold water and refrigerate for up to a few days, changing water daily.
Soy Sauce and Other Asian Condiments Asian condiments are loaded with sodium. Use a low-sodium alternative whenever possible, and, to ensure a measure of control over how much sodium you ingest, never pour soy sauce or any other condiment out of a bottle. Consult the Fat-Cholesterol-Sodium Tables (pp. 332-34) for an approximate idea of how much sodium these substances contain, and always use a measuring spoon. But before you add more of a condiment to a particular dish, consider adding instead chili pepper flakes, black pepper, Japanese pepper, seven-spice mixture, vinegar, or lemon juice. It is my contention that it is possible to dine on very appetizing meals and still keep within the American Heart Association guidelines for sodium.
Tamarind The brown acidic fruit shaped like a large broad bean that grows on the tamarind tree is widely used in Southeast Asian cooking. To make tamarind water, combine 2 to 3 ounces tamarind pulp with 1 cup boiling water in a nonmetallic bowl. Mash with a fork and soak for 10 to 15 minutes. Strain by rubbing through a sieve. Tamarind has such a fine tart flavor that it is worth making some effort to locate it if it is not readily available in your locality. It is possible to substitute the juice and rinds of limes or lemons, or vinegar, but the taste is not the same.
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Processed Foods Choose low-sodium and low-fat processed foods whenever there is an alternative. Read labels carefully. You may need your glasses because the print is usually too fine for the naked eye.
Cooking Tips
Utensils Most of the dishes in this book can be cooked with available Western utensils. Though a steamer would be handy, especially for cooking a whole fish, it is not essential, since one can be easily improvised. In a large tightly-covered pot or roasting pan, place two small heat-proof bowls or small empty tuna cans. On top of these bowls set the heat-proof food-laden plate. Add water to the pot but keep it at least two inches below the food. There must be enough space around the plate to allow the steam to rise and circulate freely.
Another important piece of equipment in an Asian kitchen is the mortar and pestle used to reduce' chilies and spices to a paste. An electric blender will give the same results in much less