A compression test is similar to a leak-down test, but it uses an older technique. Remove all of the spark plugs and then pop the coil lead off the coil. Connect a compression tester to a spark plug hole. Crank over the engine using the key and starter, and count how many engine revolutions it takes for the gauge to top out at maximum pressure (you may want to have a helper turn the key while you check the gauge). Do this for every cylinder, taking notes along the way, until they’re all checked.
You’re looking for consistent pressure in each cylinder, and to ensure that the numbers are within 10 percent of one another, give or take. If your gauge reads less than 30 percent, the engine has a compression leak, and you may want to move on (or negotiate the price of the truck lower accordingly).
If you’re not good at these types of mechanical projects, consider paying a professional mechanic to give the truck a once-over. Many mechanics can check out a project for you on the side, depending on the price you offer. If you don’t know or trust any mechanics (or you don’t have the extra cash), maybe one of your experienced friends could do it. Either way, it’s always good to have a second opinion, particularly if he or she has more experience than you do.
Take your time when looking over a potential project’s drivetrain. What you find could determine whether or not it becomes your next project or the next guy’s.
Chassis, Suspension, and Brakes
The chassis, suspension, and brakes are similar to the drivetrain, in that it’s handy if you can drive the truck. Cruising at slow speeds, it’s easy to listen for squeaky bushings or go over a bump to notice how the steering wheel feels. Giving the truck a series of basic braking tests at various speeds and seeing how the truck handles overall is a huge help to decide whether to buy it.
If you do not have the opportunity to drive the truck, grab a flashlight and get down on the ground to check things out further. When it comes to the suspension, look for worn bushings with obvious cracks. If you can pull on a tire and hear the suspension clunking, you likely have poor bushings or bad ball joints, both of which can be dangerous if not fixed (that said, ball joint replacement is something that most home mechanics can do themselves).
Be sure to consider the suspension of the truck. Up front, upper and lower control arms, tie-rod ends, coil springs, and so on should be straight and free of any wrinkles or major bends. If you see a problem, the truck has likely seen some kind of impact or maybe a Dukes of Hazard–style jump. Coil springs that look like limp noodles were likely heated at some point, the result of an inexperienced person’s attempts to lower the front end.
As for the leaf springs, look for any obvious cracks, twists, or other damage in the steel. There should be a few individual leafs in the pack; if there’s just one, the truck has been lowered. Also, make sure that the axle is located underneath the leaf springs. If there are only two or three leaves in the pack, you have to decide whether or not a new set of leaf springs is worth the purchase.
Brakes are obviously a critical component on a truck, and if they’re seized, there’s not much to test. You have to break them free before you can determine how well they work, but you could also make the argument that if they’re frozen, they need to be replaced entirely.
Inspect the brake fluid when you check out a truck; that could point out more clues, too. This particular truck was very well cared for, but the brake fluid was grimy and full of dirt and rust. It meant that the entire braking system should be gone through, so that new fluid could be flushed through the system. It wasn’t life threatening or dangerous, but it was another cost to add to the overall project.
Look for holes or leaks around the brake lines, cracks in the rubber hoses leading to the calipers, and rust inside the master cylinder. Brake lines are made of rubber and the rubber stretches, fades, and cracks over time. If this is the case, all of the lines may need to be replaced. Remember that your brakes are a safety device, and safety must never be compromised. If it looks abnormal, it likely is, and that’s obviously a problem.
The chassis of the truck needs to be solid, unless you plan on purchasing a new one for the project. Look for rust spots and note if any of them penetrate all of the way through the frame. Although fixing a chassis is doable, it can be a big project, and it may be going further than you want to attempt.
The bushings on this project truck worked, and the truck drove fine, but they didn’t last for much longer. The cracks visible along the edges of the bushings were pretty substantial, and the bushings needed replacement soon, anyway.
A “beater” is one of those friendly terms for a truck or car that’s had a hard service life. These vehicles are often in such poor condition and need such substantial restoration that it’s not worth the investment. However, a beater could be used as a parts truck. The thing is, you have to assess the truck as it stands and see what you can realistically fix. A truck that’s been lowered may be easy to raise back up to stock height, but was the frame cut to drop it? Does it have drag marks on the frame? Is anything bent or tweaked? A lot of times a cheap truck is one that has a bunch of problems, so be wary.
Yes, you could, in theory, rescue a beater truck. And when you check it out, it may seem that it’s not beyond repair, and that you could give it a new home. In the process, however, you will probably spend thousands of dollars trying to get the truck back up to specs. And who knows what other problems you might find. Believe me, it’s better to save your money and get something nicer to begin with, rather than hoping that a cheap beater will work.
The key is to find a truck that fits your needs, budget, and skill level. The argument could be made that this is the hardest step of the process. How do you know what you’re capable of before you take on the project?
Let’s assume that if you’ve purchased this book you’re not an expert in the field. You may be a skilled bodyman, painter, or welder, but these specific trucks aren’t your bread and butter. Many owners have done some kind of mechanical work, so you have the expertise to rebuild the engine, brakes, rear end, and suspension.
You could be the one who installed a new top end on your last small-block engine. If you’ve done brakes before and know how to tear apart a suspension the right way, or you’ve made any number of mechanical improvements or repairs to a vehicle before, chances are that you have the mechanical skills necessary to restore a truck.
Think about what you can and can’t do. The simplest way to do that is by making a list. Skim through the following chapters and try to figure out what it is that you can do. Jot down the tasks that you feel confident about, then make another column for things that you’re iffy about, and a last column for tasks that you have zero confidence in at all.
If the list of things you can’t do outweighs the number of things you can or are iffy on, you could be farming out a lot of this work, which is fine as long as you can afford it. Alternatively, you could also spend the time to learn how to perform the procedures. At the end of the day, it comes down to how much time you want to devote to the project, including learning (and fixing mistakes) in the process.
If your “can’t do” list is virtually everything, don’t let it get you down. First off, there are many automotive restoration projects that pretty much anyone with patience and time can handle. It doesn’t take a genius to clean up and install tailgate latches for example,