7. For situations where reach and accessibility are beyond the capabilities of sharp-nosed pliers, a pair of large sharp-nosed forceps (tweezers) will be invaluable. From Brownells.
8. One of the most-used tools in my shop is this nylon-tipped drift punch, shown with an optional brass tip in place on the handle. It has a steel pin inside the nylon tip for strength. From Brownells, and absolutely essential.
9. A good set of drift punches will prevent a lot of marred pins. These, from Brownells, are made by Mayhew. The tapered punches at the right are for starting pins, the others for pushing them through. Two sizes are available—4 inches or 6 inches.
10. These punches by Mayhew are designed specifically for roll pins and have a projection at the center of the tip to fit the hollow center of a roll pin, driving it out without deformation of the ends. From Brownells.
11. Some of the necessary tools are easily made in the shop. These non-marring drift punches were made from three sizes of welder's brazing rod.
12. This heavy wrench from Brownells is designed specifically for removal of the barrel nut in Remington Model 742 and Model 760 rifles. It's a quality tool of 01 steel, hardened to Rockwell C 46–48.
13. Most Remington centerfire rifles have the extractor mounted inside the front of the bolt by a tiny rivet. This special tool from B-Square will set these rivets with a minimum of trouble.
14. These extractor pliers are used in both the removal and replacement of Mauser or Springfield-type extractors, making a difficult job much easier. From Brownells.
15. These wrenches are designed for removal of the piston nut in the .30 U.S. Carbine. The tool at the right is the original military type with three lugs, and the one at the left is a double-end type, to fit both the military guns and the two-slot nut found on some commercial civilian Carbines. These wrenches are available from several military surplus and commercial sources.
16. Without this tool, removal of the firing pin, ejector and extractor from the 30 U.S. Carbine is a tedious job. It is available from military surplus sources.
17. This combination tool for the U.S. M-1 rifle (Garand) has provisions for cleaning the chamber, installing the extractor and ejector in the bolt, a screwdriver, and other features. A completely-equipped Garand has one of these in the storage trap in the buttstock. They are available from military surplus sources.
Argentine Model 1891 Mauser
Similar/Identical Pattern Guns
The same basic assembly/disassembly steps for the Argentine Model 1891 Mauser also apply to the following guns:
Argentine Model 1891 Carbine
Spanish Model 1891 Rifle Turkish Model 90T
Belgian Model 1889 Rifle, Carbine
Turkish Model 1890
Yugoslavian Model 90T
| Data: | Argentine Model 1891 |
| Origin: | Germany |
| Manufacturer: | Ludwig Loewe, Berlin, and Deutsche Waffen und Munitionsfabriken |
| Cartridge: | 7.65mm Mauser |
| Magazine capacity: | 5 rounds |
| Overall length: | 48-½ inches |
| Barrel length: | 29 inches |
| Weight: | 9 pounds |
The Mauser of 1891 was used officially by Belgium, Spain, Turkey, and Argentina, and the latter version is one of the most well known, as it was made in larger quantity. Many of these finely-made guns have sold on the surplus market, and they are frequently encountered. This was the first Mauser rifle to have a box magazine and the first to have a one-piece bolt with opposed front locking lugs, a feature copied by everyone since that time. A carbine version of the Model 1891 was also made, and it was mechanically identical. The gun shown here has been sporterized.
Disassembly:
1. Open the bolt, hold the bolt stop pulled out to the left, and remove the bolt toward the rear.
2. Grip the underlug of the cocking piece firmly in a padded vise, and pull the bolt forward until a thin piece of steel can be inserted between the front of the cocking piece and the rear of the bolt sleeve. Release the spring tension, and the piece of steel will trap the striker at the rear.
3. Unscrew the bolt sleeve and striker assembly and remove it toward the rear, taking care not to dislodge the piece of steel holding the striker.
4. Grip the front of the striker firmly in a padded vise, and push the bolt sleeve forward, allowing the piece of steel to fall out. Continue forward with the sleeve until its rear edge is clear of the front edge of the cocking piece lug. Keep a firm grip on the bolt sleeve, as the striker spring is fully compressed. Unscrew the cocking piece, and remove it.
5. Slowly release the spring tension, and remove the bolt sleeve and striker spring toward the rear.