Glue For Attaching Cloth Strips To Iron.
—Soak 500 parts of Cologne glue in the evening with clean cold water in a clean vessel; in the morning pour off the water, place the softened glue without admixture of water into a clean copper or enamel receptacle, which is put on a moderate low fire (charcoal or steam apparatus). During the dissolution the mass must be continually stirred with a wooden trowel or spatula. If the glue is too thick, it is thinned with diluted spirit, but not with water. As soon as the glue has reached the boiling point, about 50 parts of linseed oil varnish (boiled oil) is added to the mass with constant stirring. When the latter has been stirred up well, add 50 parts of powdered colophony and shake it into the mass with stirring, subsequently removing the glue from the fire. In order to increase the binding qualities and to guard against moisture, it is well still to add about 50 parts of isinglass, which has been previously cut {15} into narrow strips and placed, well beaten, in a vessel, into which enough spirit of wine has been poured to cover all. When dissolved, the last-named mass is added to the boiling glue with constant stirring. The adhesive agent is now ready for use and is employed hot, it being advisable to warm the iron also. Apply glue only to a surface equivalent to a single strip at a time. The strips are pressed down with a stiff brush or a wad of cloth.
Glue For Leather Or Cardboard.
—To attach leather to cardboard dissolve good glue (softened by spelling in water) with a little turpentine and enough water in an ordinary glue pot, and then having made a thick paste with starch in the proportion of 2 parts by weight, of starch powder for every 1 part, by weight, of dry glue, mix the compounds and allow the mixture to become cold before application to the cardboard.
For Wood, Glass, Cardboard, And All Articles Of A Metallic Or Mineral Character.
—Take boiled linseed oil 20 parts, Flemish glue 20 parts, hydrated lime 15 parts, powdered turpentine 5 parts, alum 5 parts acetic acid 5 parts. Dissolve the glue with the acetic acid, add the alum, then the hydrated lime, and finally the turpentine and the boiled linseed oil. Triturate all well until it forms a homogeneous paste and keep in well-closed flasks. Use like any other glue.
Glue For Uniting Metals With Fabrics.
—Cologne glue of good quality is soaked and boiled down to the consistency of that used by cabinetmakers. Then add, with constant stirring, sifted wood ashes until a moderately thick, homogeneous mass results. Use hot and press the pieces well together during the drying. For tinfoil, about 2 per cent of boracic acid should be added instead of the wood ashes.
Glue or Paste for Making Paper Boxes.—
| Chloral hydrate | 5 parts |
| Gelatin, white | 8 parts |
| Gum arabic | 2 parts |
| Boiling water | 30 parts |
Mix the chloral, gelatin, and gum arabic in a porcelain container, pour the boiling water over the mixture and let stand for 1 day, giving it a vigorous stirring several times during the day. In cold weather this is apt to get hard and stiff, but this may be obviated by standing the container in warm water for a few minutes. This paste adheres to any surface whatever.
Natural Glue For Cementing Porcelain, Crystal Glass, Etc.
—The large shell snails which are found in vineyards have at the extremity of their body a small, whitish bladder filled with a substance of greasy and gelatinous aspect. If this substance extracted from the bladder is applied on the fragments of porcelain or any body whatever, which are juxtaposed by being made to touch at all parts, they acquire such adhesion that if one strives to separate them by a blow, they are more liable to break at another place than the cemented seam. It is necessary to give this glue sufficient time to dry perfectly, so as to permit it to acquire the highest degree of strength and tenacity.
Belt Glue.
—A glue for belts can be prepared as follows: Soak 50 parts of gelatin in water, pour off the excess of water, and heat on the water bath. With good stirring add, first, 5 parts, by weight, of glycerine, then 10 parts, by weight, of turpentine, and 5 parts, by weight, of linseed oil varnish and thin with water as required. The ends of the belts to be glued are cut off obliquely and warmed; then the hot glue is applied, and the united parts are subjected to strong pressure, allowing them to dry thus for 24 hours before the belts are used.
Chromium Glue For Wood, Paper, And Cloth.
—I.—(a) One-half pound strong glue (any glue if color is immaterial, white fish glue otherwise); soak 12 hours in 12 fluidounces of cold water. (b) One-quarter pound gelatin; soak 2 hours in 12 fluidounces cold water. (c) Two ounces bichromate of potassium dissolved in 8 fluidounces boiling water. Dissolve (a) after soaking, in a glue pot, and add (b). After (a) and (b) are mixed and dissolved, stir in (c). This glue is exceedingly strong, and if the article cemented be exposed to strong sunlight for 1 hour, the glue becomes perfectly waterproof. Of course, it is understood that the exposure to sunlight is to be made after the glue is thoroughly dry. The one objectionable feature of this cement is its color, which is a yellow-brown. By substituting chrome alum in place of the bichromate, an olive color is obtained.
II.—Use a moderately strong gelatin solution (containing 5 to 10 per cent of dry gelatin), to which about 1 part of acid chromate of potassium in solution is added to every 5 parts of gelatin. This mixture has the property of becoming insoluble by water through the action of sunlight under partial reduction of the chromic acid. {16}
Fireproof Glue.—
| Raw linseed oil | 8 parts |
| Glue or gelatin | 1 part |
| Quicklime | 2 parts |
Soak the glue or gelatin in the oil for 10 to 12 hours, and then melt it by gently heating the oil, and when perfectly fluid stir in the quicklime until the whole mass is homogeneous, then spread out in layers to dry gradually, out of the sun’s rays. For use, reheat the glue in a glue pot in the ordinary way of melting glue.
Cements.
Under this heading will be found only cements for causing one substance to adhere to another. Cements used primarily as fillers, such as dental cements, will be found under Cements, Putties, etc.
Cutlers’ Cements for Fixing Knife Blades into Handles.—
| I.— | Rosin | 4 pounds |
|---|---|---|
| Beeswax | 1 pound | |
| Plaster of Paris or brickdust | 1 pound | |
| II.— | Pitch | 5 pounds |
| Wood ashes | 1 pound | |
| Tallow | 1 pound |
III.—Rosin, 12; sulphur flowers, 3; iron filings, 5. Melt together, fill the handle while hot, and insert the instrument.
IV.—Plaster of Paris is ordinarily used for fastening loose handles. It is made into a moderately thick paste with water run into the hole in the head of the pestle, the handle inserted and held in place till the cement hardens. Some add sand to the paste, and claim to get better results.
V.—Boil together 1 part of caustic soda, 3 parts of rosin, and 5 parts of water till homogeneous and add 4 parts of plaster of Paris.