Inking.—For inking in drawings the best Indian ink should be used, and not common writing ink. Common ink does not dry quick enough, and rapidly corrodes the drawing pens. The pen should be filled by means of a brush or a narrow strip of paper, and not by dipping the pen into the ink.
In cases where there are straight lines and arcs of circles touching one another ink in the arcs first, then the straight lines; in this way it is easier to hide the joints.
Colouring.—Camel's-hair or sable brushes should be used; the latter are the best, but are much more expensive than the former. The colour should be rubbed down in a dish, and the tint should be light. The mistake which a beginner invariably makes is in having the colour of too dark a tint.
First go over the part to be coloured with the brush and clean water for the purpose of damping it. Next dry with clean blotting-paper to take off any superfluous water. Then take another brush with the colour, and beginning at the top, work from left to right and downwards. If it is necessary to recolour any part let the first coating dry before beginning.
Engineers have adopted certain colours to represent particular materials; these are given in the following table:—
Table showing Colours used to represent Different Materials.
| Material | Colour |
| Cast iron | Payne's grey or neutral tint. |
| Wrought iron | Prussian blue. |
| Steel | Purple (mixture of Prussian blue and crimson lake). |
| Brass | Gamboge with a little sienna or a very little red added. |
| Copper | A mixture of crimson lake and gamboge, the former colour predominating. |
| Lead | Light Indian ink with a very little indigo added. |
| Brickwork | Crimson lake and burnt sienna. |
| Firebrick | Yellow and Vandyke brown. |
| Greystones | Light sepia or pale Indian ink, with a little Prussian blue added. |
| Brown freestone | Mixture of pale Indian ink, burnt sienna, and carmine. |
| Soft woods | For ground work, pale tint of sienna. |
| Hard woods | For ground work, pale tint of sienna with a little red added. |
| For graining woods use darker tint with a greater proportion of red. |
Printing.—A good drawing should have its title printed, a plain style of letter being used for this purpose, such as the following:—
The following letters look well if they are well made, but they are much more difficult to draw.
For remarks on a drawing the following style is most suitable:—
All printing should be done by freehand.
Border lines are seldom put on engineering drawings.
Working Drawings.—A good working drawing should be prepared in the following manner. It must first be carefully outlined in pencil and then inked in. After this all parts cut by planes of section should be coloured, the colours used indicating the materials of which the parts are made. Parts which are round may also be lightly shaded with the brush and colours to suit the materials. The centre lines are now inked in with red or blue ink. The red ink may be prepared by rubbing down the cake of crimson lake, and the blue ink in like manner from the cake of Prussian blue. Next come the distance or dimension lines, which should be put in with blue or red ink, depending on which colour was used for the centre lines. Dimension lines and centre lines are best put in of different colour. The arrow-heads at the ends of the dimension lines are now put in with black ink, and so are the figures for the dimensions. The arrow-heads and the figures should be made with a common writing pen. The dimensions should be put on neatly. Many a good drawing has its appearance spoiled through being slovenly dimensioned.
We may here point out the importance of putting the dimensions on a working drawing. If the drawing is not dimensioned, the workman must get his sizes from the drawing by applying his rule or a suitable scale. Now this operation takes time, and is very liable to result in error. Time is therefore saved, and the chance of error reduced, by marking the sizes in figures.
In practice it is not usual to send original drawings from the drawing office to the workshop, but copies only. The copies may be produced by various 'processes,' or they may be tracings drawn by hand. Many engineers do not ink in their original drawings, but leave them in pencil; especially is this the case if the drawings are not likely to be much used.
Scales.—The best scales are made of ivory, and are twelve inches long. Boxwood scales are much cheaper, although not so durable as those made of ivory. If the student does not care to go to the expense of ivory or boxwood scales, he can get paper ones very cheap, which will be quite sufficient for his purpose. The divisions of the scale should be marked down to its edge, so that measurements may be made by applying the scale directly to the drawing. For working such exercises as are in this book the student should be provided with the following scales:—
| A scale of | 1, | or | 12 | inches to a foot. | |
| ” | 1⁄2 | ” | 6 | ” | |
| ” | 1⁄3 | ” | 4 | ” | |
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