The English Housekeeper: Or, Manual of Domestic Management. Anne Cobbett

white fowl, which he without ceremony laid on the kitchen table, which stood in the middle of the room, and rivalled the very walls themselves in blackness. I was assured, by the first glance at this table, by reason of the fragments of fish, fowl, and pastry, strewed over it, that the same piece of furniture served every purpose of chopping-block and paste-board. When, therefore, under these circumstances, I saw the preparation for the broth just going to commence, the exclamation of "Dirty pigs!" was making its way to my lips, and I, in order to avoid outraging the ears of French politeness, in the spot of all France most famous for the romantic, made the best of my way out of the kitchen, and endeavoured, when the next dinner-time arrived, to forget that I had ever seen it. Whenever afterwards the figure of this black table appeared to my fancy, like a spectre rising to warn me against tasteful and delicate looking entremets, I strove to forget the reality; but I never recovered the feeling of perfect security in what I was about to eat until the sea again rolled between me and the kitchen of the Hotel de l'Europe, and I again actually saw the clear bright fire, the whitened hearth, the yellow-ochred walls, the polished tins, the clean-scrubbed tables and chairs, and the white dresser cloths, of the kitchen, such as I had always been used to see at my own home.

CHAPTER VI.

       Table of Contents

      JOINTING, TRUSSING, AND CARVING.

      Below will be found the figures of the five larger animals, followed by a reference to each, by which the reader, who is not already experienced, may observe the names of all the principal joints, as well as the part of the animal from which the joint is cut. No book that I am acquainted with, except that of Mrs. Rundell, has taken any notice of this subject, though it is a matter of considerable importance, and one as to which many a young housekeeper often wishes for information.

      Venison.

1. Shoulder. 2. Neck. 3. Haunch.

4. Breast. 5. Scrag.

      Beef.

1. Sirloin. 2. Rump. 3. Edge Bone. 4. Buttock. 5. Mouse Buttock. 6. Leg. 7. Thick Flank. 8. Veiny Piece. 9. Thin Flank.

10. Fore Rib: 7 Ribs. 11. Middle Rib: 4 Ribs. 12. Chuck Rib: 2 Ribs. 13. Brisket. 14. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece. 15. Clod. 16. Neck, or Sticking Piece. 17. Shin. 18. Cheek.

      Mutton.

1. Leg. 2. Shoulder. 3. Loin, Best End. 4. Loin, Chump End.

5. Neck, Best End. 6. Breast. 7. Neck, Scrag End.

      Note. A Chine is two Loins; and a Saddle is two Loins, and two Necks of the Best End.

      Veal.

1. Loin, Best End. 2. Fillet. 3. Loin, Chump End. 4. Hind Knuckle. 5. Neck, Best End.

6. Breast, Best End. 7. Blade Bone, or Oyster-part. 8. Fore Knuckle. 9. Breast, Brisket End. 10. Neck, Scrag End.

      Pork.

1. Leg. 2. Hind Loin. 3. Fore Loin.

4. Spare Rib. 5. Hand. 6. Belly or Spring.

      Cod's Head.—Fig. 1.

      Cod's Head (Fig. 1) is a dish in carving which you have nothing to study beyond that preference for particular parts of the fish which some persons entertain. The solid parts are helped by cutting through with the fish trowel from a to b and from c to d, and so on, from the jaw-bone to the further end of the shoulder. The sound lies on the inside, and to obtain this, you must raise up the thin part of the fish, near the letter e.—This dish never looks so well as when served dry, and the fish on a napkin neatly folded, and garnished with sprigs of parsley.

      Haunch of Venison.—Fig. 2.

      Haunch of Venison is cut (as in Fig. 2.) first in the line a to b. This first cut is the means of getting much of the gravy of the joint. Then turning the dish longwise towards him, the carver should put the knife in at c, and cut, as deep as the bone will allow, to d, and take out slices on either side of the line in this direction. The fat of venison becomes cold so very rapidly, that it is advisable, when convenient, to have some means of giving it renewed warmth after the joint comes to table. For this purpose, some use water plates, which have the effect of rendering the meat infinitely nicer than it would be in a half chilled state.

      Haunch of Mutton is carved in the same way as Venison.

      Saddle of Mutton.—Fig. 3.

      Saddle of Mutton. This is prepared for roasting as in Fig. 3, the tail being split in two, each half twisted back, and skewered, with one of the kidneys enclosed. You carve this by cutting, in straight lines, on each side of the backbone, as from a to b, from c to d. If the saddle be a fine one, there will be fat on every part of it; but there is always more on the sides (ee) than in the centre.

      Edge Bone of Beef.—Fig. 4.

      Edge Bone of Beef, like the Round of Beef, is easily carved. But care should be taken, with both of these, to carve neatly; for if the meat be cut in thick slices or in pieces of awkward shape, the effect will be both to cause waste and to render the dish, while it lasts, uninviting. Cut slices, as thin as you please, from a to b (Fig. 4). The best part of the fat will be found on one side of the meat, from about c to d. The most delicate is at c.

      Fore Quarter of Lamb.—Fig. 5.

      Fore Quarter of Lamb is first to be cut so as to divide the shoulder from the rest of the quarter, which is called the target. For this purpose, put the fork firmly into the shoulder joint, and then cut underneath the blade-bone beginning at a (Fig. 5), and continue all round in the direction of a circular line, and pretty close to the under part of the blade-bone. Some people like to cut the shoulder large, while others take off no more meat with it than is barely necessary to remove the blade-bone. It is most convenient to place the shoulder on a separate dish. This is carved in the same way as the shoulder of mutton. (See Fig. 7.) When the shoulder is removed, a lemon may be squeezed over that part of the remainder of the joint where the knife had passed: this gives a flavour to the meat which is generally approved.—Then, proceed to cut completely through from b to c, following the line across the bones as cracked by the butcher; and this will divide the ribs (d) from the brisket (e). Tastes vary in giving preference