Many DSLR cameras now come with moveable LCD screens. These can flip upwards or sideways. This makes shooting at low angle viewpoints much easier.
A compact on-camera flash commonly known as a speedlite. These are more powerful than built-in flashes and give greater control of output. Here we can see a typical menu on the rear of a speedlite.
Flash
When most people think of camera accessories, flash is normally at the top of their list. While it is definitely a useful addition, flash needs to be used extensively and in many different situations before you can say that you have mastered it.
Many DSLR cameras have built-in flash, located at the top of the pentaprism and which pops up when required. The benefits of such a unit are illustrated by its absence in top-of-the-range cameras. Next time you see a group of photographers on the television news, observe how many use this type of flash. I guarantee there won’t be any because, quite frankly, the versatility and power of a built-in flash are completely inadequate. It would be far better to spend your money on a higher-spec camera and buy a separate flash-gun.
There are two main types of external flash. One fits on the top of the camera and is attached to the hotshoe. This requires no additional leads, unless you are using it off-camera, in which case a dedicated lead is slotted into the hotshoe at one end and the flash-gun at the other. The other type is usually mounted on a bracket and attached to the side of the camera. It is synchronized via a lead to a socket on the camera. This type of flash is usually much more powerful and, in some cases, several guns can be fired together.
Detail of an on-camera flash in action, showing how the flash head swivels. Professional flash guns also have this facility.
Both these units can be used fully automatically when the camera is set to auto mode. This means that the camera will read the flash output through the lens (TTL) and adjust it or the aperture accordingly. You can also angle the head of the flash in a variety of different directions so that you can ‘bounce’ the flash. Both units also have full manual override. DSLR cameras can synchronize flash only at shutter speeds of around 1/125 second – any faster than this will mean that some of the frame is unexposed.
Ring flash
Nikon manufacture a flash, although not strictly a ring flash, that has the advantage of flash modules that can be added around the lens. This gives fantastic control over the direction and spread of light.
The ring flash is another useful type of external flash. As the name suggests, it is made up of a circular flash tube that fits around the lens. Originally developed for medical and scientific photography, the ring flash gives a completely even light and creates a thin, faint shadow all around the subject. It is particularly useful for close-ups and, as with all equipment, it needs a certain amount of experimentation in order to achieve the best results.
Tripod
Although many people see tripods as burdensome, they are useful for more reasons than just keeping the camera steady.
The first thing I look for in a tripod is rigidity. This might seem like stating the obvious but there are so many flimsy models available that would blow over in a gust of wind that they really aren’t worth bothering with. A good tripod should extend to a reasonable height and remain stable. Quick-release legs are preferable to screw versions, which can become cross-threaded and irreparable. Make sure that the legs can be splayed at right angles to the head, which will enable you to shoot from low angles while keeping the camera steady.
Another useful addition is a central column. As well as giving additional height, this column can be inverted, which is an alternative method of getting a low-angle shot. On some models, this column can be attached at right angles to the tripod, which is a useful feature for close-up overhead photography. To top it off, purchase a good pan-tilt head so that the camera is free to move in a variety of directions.
Tripod
Cable release
As you will normally be shooting at a slow shutter speed when using a tripod, it’s a good idea to have a cable release to help you fire the shutter release more smoothly. If you fire it in the normal way with your finger, the camera can move, even if it’s on a tripod.
Cable release
Monopod
At an athletics meeting or a motor race, for example, where you are using an ultra-telephoto lens, such as a 400 or 600mm, a tripod might be inappropriate but you still need some means of supporting the camera. These long lenses are almost impossible to hold steady, and their weight means that you need the arms of a bodybuilder. This is when I use a monopod. As its name suggests, the monopod has only one leg, and while it will not support the camera by itself, it will help to keep it steady.
Monopod
Camera bag
Finally, you will need a good case to keep the kit in. If I am travelling, I have all my equipment stored in a rigid flight case, which is foam-filled with cut-out compartments so that each piece is held firm and instantly visible. This is important because I can see immediately if anything is missing. When shooting outdoors, I transfer the appropriate equipment into a backpack. This leaves my hands free to hold the camera and take shots without having to put down and pick up the case repeatedly.
Keep your camera, lenses and small accessories safe and sound in a well-padded camera bag.
See also:
Action
Getting to grips with your DSLR
DSLR basics
You’re the proud owner of a new DSLR and, naturally, you can’t wait to get out there and start snapping. Here are some simple tips and tricks to help you get the most from your new camera.
How to hold the camera
Holding the camera correctly so that you can use it freely at the same time as keeping it secure is most important. Hold the camera in your right hand, then allow the index finger of that hand to fall naturally over the shutter release. The control dial on the back should then line up easily with your thumb. Meanwhile, cradle the camera and lens barrel in the left hand with the palm uppermost, and wrap your fingers lightly around the zoom or focus ring of the lens. Now you’re in complete control of your camera.