Travels Through North America, During the Years 1825 and 1826. v. 1-2
EASTERN DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit:
Be it remembered, that on the seventh day of October, in the fifty-third year of the independence of the United States of America, A. D. 1828, Carey, Lea and Carey of the said district, have deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as Proprietors, in the words following, to wit:
“Travels through North America, during the years 1825 and 1826. By his highness, Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimar Eisenach. In two volumes.”
In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, entituled, “An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned.” And also to the act, entitled, “An act supplementary to an act, entitled, ‘An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned,’ and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints.”
SKERRETT – NINTH STREET,
PHILADELPHIA.
PREFACE
The following journal was by no means originally designed for publication. I wrote it during my travels, partly to recall past incidents at a future period, partly to give, with more ease and certainty, information to my much-honoured parents, my relatives, and friends, on any subject, upon which inquiry might be made. After my return, the book was read by several, for whose perusal it had not been altogether intended. Many judicious persons imagined that it would be of interest to a larger number of readers, and variously and repeatedly requested its publication, in order to give it a more extensive circulation. As I could not easily withstand these solicitations, and besides met with an experienced and worthy person, Counsellor Luden, to whom, as editor, I might without hesitation entrust the whole manuscript, I yielded; whether with propriety or not, I cannot tell.
As to the voyage itself, I have nothing to say, either with regard to its cause or design. The idea of visiting America, occupied me, almost from my earliest years. Why this idea arose, or why it continued in my mind, is not a matter of much moment. The chief reason was, I wished to see the new world; the country; the people; their conditions and institutions; their customs and manners. The more I became acquainted with the old world, the more my desire to see the new increased.
The state and relations of the European countries, however, and the duties by which I deem myself bound, as a military man, to the country, to which I had dedicated my services, precluded the hope of an early accomplishment of my design. Still I made the necessary preparations as far as my situation and circumstances allowed, so that the voyage might not be made at a future time without some advantage. At last Europe appeared to have attained a degree of tranquillity which would permit an absence of a year or eighteen months, without a fear on my part that I should fail in any of my engagements. His majesty, the King of the Netherlands, whom I have the honour to serve, not only allowed me the requisite time, but also granted me a passage in the Pallas, a royal sloop of war, commanded by Captain-Lieutenant Ryk, a gallant, highly-esteemed, and experienced seaman.
Under which order of travellers I am to be ranked, according to poor Yorick’s classification, is submitted to the decision of the kind reader.
Ghent, May 20, 1827.
VOL. I
CHAPTER I
On the 4th of April, 1825, I set out from Ghent for Antwerp. This ancient and noble city is in every point of view interesting; to the admirers of the fine arts, on account of the unique treasures she possesses; to the military observer for her long defence against the army of the Duke of Parma, and for her military and maritime importance obtained in modern times through him who long guided the destiny of Europe; and to the philanthropist, who derives satisfaction from the increasing prosperity of mankind, for numerous reasons. Long the victim of politics and the jealousy of her neighbours, which kept the mighty Scheld, the harbour of Antwerp, blockaded, she now powerfully lifts her head above her rivals, and her commerce, nearly as flourishing as under the Hanseatic league, is annually becoming more extensive, thanks to the foresight of the wise prince whom Providence has placed at the head of our country’s government.
A government yacht received us at Antwerp, and with a fair wind and most delightful spring weather, conveyed us, by the evening of the 6th of April, to the road of Hellevoetsluis, where the corvette Pallas was lying at anchor, which had orders to sail on the following day. The first part of the voyage to Hellevoetsluis is down the Scheld; the beautiful steeple of the cathedral of Antwerp long remains in sight; the forts on both shores attract the attention of military men, and perhaps remind them of the remains of the great bridge between forts St. Mary and St. Philip, by which Alexander Farnese, Duke of Parma, crossed the stream and forced the city to surrender.
At an hour’s sail below Antwerp, the Scheld forms a large basin, and divides into two arms the East and West Scheld, which are separated by the island of Zuid-Beveland. The West Scheld is the deepest, and flows into the North Sea: we sailed on the eastern branch to the place of our destination.
A century ago South Beveland was well cultivated, and contained a town and numerous villages: it was swallowed up by the water, and still remains overflowed. It may be reserved for the creative spirit peculiar to our existing government and its illustrious chief, to give employment to the plough of the industrious farmer on the spot where at present the poor fisherman protracts a wretched existence.
We afterwards left the East Scheld, and sailed past several well cultivated islands, protected against the violence of the stormy waves by artificial dams. We entered upon the stream formed by the confluence of the Maas and Rhine, and advanced immediately to Hellevoetsluis, whence in former times the victorious fleets of Holland frequently sailed to the remotest parts of the world, and dictated terms to her enemies. The ships which convey the treasures of the tropical regions to the rich city of Rotterdam, or carry the products of our own industry, as well as the defenders of our extensive possessions, are often obliged, by contrary winds, to remain here for various periods. Hence Hellevoetsluis is generally very lively.
The corvette Pallas, in which our government permitted me to sail for America, was a new vessel, fitted out as an instruction ship. A selection of young naval officers was made for this voyage, as midshipmen. To these were added a young naval architect named Tromp, a worthy descendant of historically renowned ancestors, whose deep knowledge, distinguished talents, and estimable character, I became acquainted with and cherished in the course of the voyage. These selected officers were entrusted to the direction of Captain Ryk, one of our most approved commanders,1 who had orders to visit some of the principal English and American naval depôts, in order to acquire whatever knowledge might best promote the interests of his country. On this account the corvette was fitted out rather as a packet ship than a man of war. She had no long guns on deck, except two long sixes in the bows as chase guns; her battery consisted of eighteen twenty-four pound carronades. I was established in the captain’s cabin, and a swinging cot was suspended at night for my sleeping place.
In consequence of contrary winds and other causes which it is needless to mention, the corvette could not sail as quickly as ordered. In the mean time I stayed at Hellevoetsluis, and employed my forced leisure in examining this small town and its vicinity.
Hellevoetsluis contains upwards of two thousand inhabitants, among whom there is scarcely a poor one to be found. The town properly consists of but one street, on both sides of the harbour, having walled quays, and united by a double drawbridge, built two years ago. Where the town terminates, the dock-yard commences, which contains most of the fortifications. Near the dock-yard are the barracks, which can, if necessary, contain two thousand men. The frigate Rhine lay in