Landscaping For Dummies. Lance Walheim

as well as a blend of chemical additives to create a rigid product that won’t rot, splinter, warp, or crack. These are commonly referred to as Trex. Trex, like Kleenex in the world of facial tissues, is actually a brand name. Similar products include New Tech Wood, Fiberon, and Timbertech.In recent years, the marketplace and many contractors have embraced non-wood products because they have a lot going for them, such as:They have a convincing wood-like look that is truly aesthetically pleasing.They’re tough, resistant to mildew, mold, and rot.They’re easy to maintain — just spray off with water from time to time.They’re available in many colors (though the brightness will fade over time).Generally they’re more expensive, but composites hold up much better and for much longer than wood and, in the end, if you factor in less maintenance, using them could end up being about the same investment or perhaps even a savings for you.Composites are a good choice for decking, railing systems, and landscape timbers. They may be used pretty much as you would use regular lumber, though we recommend always creating pilot holes for nails and screws. The boards can be cut with a circular saw, require little to no maintenance, and don’t need to be painted or stained.

      Identifying tools and supplies

      Be sure you have the necessary tools on the job before you start. You don’t need to purchase all of these tools. You may be able to borrow some from family members, friends, and neighbors (just make sure to return them clean and in a timely manner). Or rent from big box home-improvement stores.

      Here are some tools to add to your toolbelt and toolchest:

       Basic carpentry tools: A tape measure, hammer, square, screwdriver, handsaw, power/circular saw, power drill, and chalkline (a simple gadget that looks a bit like a tape measure; it helps you easily mark straight lines in chalk; see Chapter 2) — more than likely also a wheelbarrow, stepladder, and sawhorses.

       Carpentry tools: A jigsaw or even better, a reciprocating saw.

       Digging tools: Both square and round shovels, a good trowel, and perhaps a garden rake.

       Specialty tools: For instance, a power auger (to dig post holes), scoop loader (for hauling bulk materials), masonry-cutting saw (for brick, tile, or stone), plate compactor (for compacting gravel and sand), or ditch excavator (for irrigation, drain, and electrical pipes),These specialty tools are perfect examples of ones you can rent or borrow rather than buy.

       Hose: Not necessarily a tool per se, but having a nearby hose is never a bad idea. Rinse off dirty or muddy tools at the end of each work day. Blast soil or dirt out of your way. If you use mortar, you’ll need water.

      Meanwhile, you’ll need stakes and levels for your hardscape projects:

       Stakes: The stakes that we refer to are called hubs or construction stakes. They’re made of wood, and the standard size is 2 x 2 inches (5.1 x 5.1 cm), with lengths varying between 8 and 24 inches (20.3 and 60.1 cm). They’re sold in bundles at any lumber yard or home-supply store.

       Levels: Levels are very handy. The three main kinds are as follows:Line level: A smaller-size gadget (3 or 4 inches, 7.6 or 10.1 cm long) that can be hung on a taut string (via little hooks); has a bubble level embedded in it.Carpenter’s, spirit, or I-beam level: The classic metal, wood, or plastic item, typically 2 feet (.6 m) long (but you can get them up to 8 feet/2.4 m long — the longer the level, the greater the accuracy), with one or more bubble levels embedded; fine to use for smaller projects.Laser level: This newer gadget is a game-changer, making formerly time-consuming jobs so much easier. Some look like a carpenter’s level, and some look like a tin can; they mount on a tripod and rotate (manually or automatically) while emitting a red laser beam. You can rent the setup.

      Keeping safety front and center

      Always think safety. Proper attire as well as wise work habits and work-site precautions go a long way toward making any project safe for you and any helpers. Use common sense and keep the following in mind at all times:

       Wear gloves, safety glasses or goggles, a dust mask, or hard hat as needed. If you have long hair, tie it back.

       Dress in fitted, not loose, heavy pants and long-sleeve shirt.

       Wear steel-toe boots.

       Banish kids, pets, and individuals not helping you out of the work area.

       Lift with your legs, not your back, and avoid lifting and twisting at the same time.

       Keep the work site clear of scraps, idle tools, and other tripping hazards.

       Make sure that extension cords and power tools are plugged into outlets with ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection.

       Operate power tools with caution, observing the manufacturer’s safety recommendations.

       Unplug tools if you need to change blades or bits.

Grading Your Property

      Grading a site means leveling the soil to the desired contour — usually a flat surface, slightly sloped to allow for drainage. (Note: The land under a proposed deck site doesn’t need to be level.) Grading for lawns and planting beds may also include adding soil amendments.

      In any case, we’re talking about pick-and-shovel work. For small areas, hand tools suffice. For a large patio or a complete landscaping overhaul project, rent a small tractor with a scoop loader and grading attachments.

       The basic rule for grading for patios, walks, and foundation sites is the Goldilocks rule: not too much, not too little, just right. Built structures must rest on undisturbed soil, so don’t overdig. Where additional soil is required, compact it carefully to minimize settling.

      When you’re grading your property, start with measuring. Don’t rely on eyeballing; always check your work with a level. For larger sites, use the following steps to establish the finished grade:

       For most sites, slope the grade at a minimum rate of ¼ inch per foot, (.6 cm per 30.5 cm), for drainage. Around the house, foundation experts recommend that the ground slope away from the house at a rate of ½ to 1 inch per foot (1.3 to 2.4 cm per .3 m) for the first 10 feet (3 m) (except for patios and other paved areas, which slope at ⅛ to ¼ inch per foot, .3 to .6 cm per .3 m).

      1 Pound 18-inch (45.7 cm) stakes 6 to 12 inches (15.2 to 30.5 cm) into the ground every 10 feet (3 m) or so, with a sledgehammer as shown in Figure 4-1. If this process begins for you with the soil on your property resisting staking (due to rocks or heavy or highly compacted soil, for example), call in the pros with heavy equipment.© John Wiley & Sons, Inc.FIGURE 4-1: Pound stakes into the ground every 10 feet (3 m) or so along a grade.

      2 Identify the stake that you want to be at the highest point, and make a reference mark on that stake at the finished grade level.You may have to dig down a bit to make the mark, or make the mark several inches (cm) above the existing grade.

      3 Mark the other stakes at the same level as the reference mark.Use a laser level.

      4 At each stake, write how far below or above the reference mark the finished grade must be — 2½ inches (6.3 cm), for example.

      5 Dig and fill the soil, using the measurements written on the stakes as a guide.

       When excavating, scrape off the topsoil first and place it where you can reuse it in your garden. For more on taking out a lawn, see Скачать книгу