to the stamped goods and transfers our mothers and
grandmothers bought for a dollar (or a penny!) from the variety
store. But art embroidery is indeed what the magazines and
pattern publishers and catalogs called those fanciful designs.
As textile historians tend to focus on rarer things, the records
and memories of this widely popular form of needlework have
been slowly declining. What a rich legacy of ordinary pleasure
and simple lives is left unwritten in the fascinating history of
art embroidery! Those of you who cherish bluebird-covered
dresser scarves and scotties-chasing-kitties tea towels know
how compelling the untold story of the woman who made them
is. Imagine her story multiplied by millions—that is the scope of
art embroidery.
Vintage embroidery lets us reach back and touch an ordinary
moment in the past. It records as much as a vintage magazine.
The designs provide a record of attitudes, humor, and culture,
much of it from a woman’s point of view. Everyone who is lucky
enough to have a small collection of old linens embroidered
by mothers or grandmothers feels the hand reaching across
the years. Decorative embroidery was (and is) used on so many
household items: linens, pillows, doilies, potholders, kitchen
towels, button bags, silverware holders, etc.—you name it and
it was probably decorated at some time or other with a bit of
embroidery and possibly a touch of tinting.
Now it’s your turn to give the designs of the old days new
life. This book presents an exciting array of vintage patterns for
you to peruse, use, and enjoy. Fantastic flowers and irresistible
animals share pages with days-of-the-week motifs and beautiful
ladies. The styles are unique to their eras and therefore
fascinating looks at the past, with designs in this book dating
as far back as the late 1800s, up through the Great Depression,
and into the fairytale 1950s. They are nostalgic treasures you
can bring alive again. It’s time to stitch up the past!
Thank you to Nori Koenig for her extensive help,
research, and knowledge of vintage linens.
3
Vintage Stitching Treasury
1880–1900
Realistic or naturalistic renderings. Visual puns and symbolic messages common.
“Talking” linens with greetings or jokes. Novelty work done in strong, natural colors. Fine
embroidery used for better quality decorative purposes—eyeletting, padded satin stitch, etc.
Turkey work/redwork a popular trend, where patterns for Kensington stitch (needlepainting)
are done in outlining only, in Turkey Red. First iron-on transfers appear on the market.
Bonanza of easily available flosses, fabrics, and patterns suddenly becomes available.
1900–1910
Arts & Crafts style patterns are a special niche in the kit and pattern market. Simplified natural
forms (flowers and abstract forms) often combine some very curvilinear elements of art
nouveau. Many kits pre-tinted to show elaborate stitching plans. This tinting is often simply
outlined and left to be enjoyed on its own.
1900–1920
Novelty patterns become increasingly professional looking. Novelty motifs continue
to be increasingly realistic. Fine embroidery motifs continue in eyeletting and other
traditional methods.
1920s
Kits for embroidered everything, from clothes to umbrella holders, are available. Incredible
number of patterns published. It’s a golden era for art embroidery. Linens feature unusually
shaped edges and corners, often fitting tightly to motifs. Colonial Lady themes begin
popularity. There is increasing whimsy and stylization in many designs. Black highlights and
accents are common in light pastel color schemes. Tinting becomes increasingly common in
combination with embroidery.
1930s
Patterns are highly professional, standardized. Motifs tend toward lush shapes, colors, or
backgrounds. Boudoir pillows, potholders, and Day of the Week towels become increasingly
popular. Novelty dolls, pajama bags, and other objects combine tinting, sewing, and
embroidery. Styles are influenced by Art Deco—strong shapes and luxurious colors. Black is
used as a background color for a stark, rich effect.
1940s
War-conscious patterns appear, including stuffed soldier dolls and motifs of soldiers with girls,
etc. Patterns take on slightly cartooned features, such as chipmunk cheeks and especially
large eyes, on a consistent basis, similar to other cartoon artwork of the period. Variety of
shapes in linens decreases, leading to less complex hems and finishing. Period details are
commonly used to add life to patterns. Increasingly refined patterns mimic the real world, but
always as a caricature.
1950s
Patterns move from being highly rendered to being occasionally over-rendered (action lines,
etc.) and complicated. Period details are no longer found. There are fewer pattern publishers
to choose from. Elaborately feminine designs feature figures and lines consistent with the
elegant fashions of the times.
Embroidery Styles Through the Years
Here’s a tip-of-the iceberg, seat-of-your-pants synopsis of the basic trends of
art embroidery patterns, almost 100 years in less than 500 words!
Color Gallery
4
Vintage Stitching Treasury
In this gallery you will find a selection of both
vintage and contemporary items, all stitched
using vintage patterns. The patterns are used
on an incredibly wide variety of items, from table
runners and quilts to handkerchiefs and laundry
bags.