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PART I
Dining Downtown
Food Retail and Urban Development
1
The Taste of Gentrification
Difference and Exclusion on San Diego’s Urban Food Frontier
PASCALE JOASSART-MARCELLI AND FERNANDO J. BOSCO
The crowd, hipster. The decor, artsy. The peeps, gangsta. The food, legit. I dig this place.
The food is good but the experience is ridiculous! These are tacos for goodness sake […] This place is a joke. […] I wish I could turn back time and drive down to Ed Fernandez or Gordo’s or any other taco shop in the county for that matter.
—Yelp reviews of ¡Salud! in Barrio Logan, San Diego1
In a context where culture has become a key determinant of the economic success of cities, food and taste have emerged as symbols of neighborhood transformation and powerful tools of urban renewal. According to Bourdieu (1984), taste reflects identities, reveals differences, and reinforces class positions. Similarly, food distinguishes places, giving some neighborhoods character and value, while stigmatizing others as food deserts or food swamps, characterized respectively by the absence of healthy food or the abundance of so-called junk food (Joassart-Marcelli and Bosco 2018a). In contested places, debates about food and taste—including those taking place online on social media platforms like Yelp—reflect changing cultural aesthetics and social dynamics and illustrate ongoing processes of spatial exclusion.
In gentrifying neighborhoods, farmers’ markets, community gardens, cosmopolitan restaurants, microbreweries, and authentic eateries have gained popularity and often play an important role in branding