Home Gardener's Propagation (UK Only). David Squire. Читать онлайн. Newlib. NEWLIB.NET

Автор: David Squire
Издательство: Ingram
Серия:
Жанр произведения: Сад и Огород
Год издания: 0
isbn: 9781607652427
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Lupinus polyphyllus (but not named varieties)

      • Sisyrinchium

      THINNING SEEDLINGS

      Thinning seedlings provides the ones that remain with more space. If left, they become congested, thin and weak.

      • Thin seedlings as soon as they are large enough to handle.

      • Do not leave pulled-up seedlings on the surface of the soil.

      • Check that soil is not loosened around remaining seedlings; if necessary, firm soil around them.

      • When thinning is complete, lightly but thoroughly water the soil’s surface. This may need to be repeated.

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       Thinning seedlings enables those that remain to grow more strongly and to be less susceptible to diseases.

      TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS

      Instead of thinning seedlings, leave them to grow slightly larger and then transplant to wider spacings in nursery beds.

      • Water both the seed bed and nursery bed a day before moving the seedlings.

      • Carefully fork up the young plants without unnecessarily damaging the roots. Do not allow their roots to become dry.

      • Replant them, with soil firmed around their roots.

      • Lightly but thoroughly water the soil.

      Sowing vegetable seeds

       What is the best method?

      Many vegetable seeds are best sown in V-shaped drills about 12 mm (½ in) deep for most seeds, although larger ones, such as those of French beans, need drills that are about 5 cm (2 in) deep (see below for desired depths for specific vegetables). Seedlings in a V-shaped drill, which produces a narrow row, will usually require thinning (see below). A few vegetables, such as garden peas, can be sown in flat-bottomed trenches; this enables a broad row to be created.

      SUCCESS WITH VEGETABLE SEEDS

      There are five main clues to success with vegetable seeds:

      • Form drills that are uniformly deep and at the correct depth for the vegetable being sown. If too deep, the seeds will not germinate; if too shallow, the seedlings will not be properly established.

      • Sow seeds evenly and thinly. There is no advantage in sowing seeds thickly (often just to use up a packet).

      • Cover seeds to a uniform depth.

      • Thin seedlings to ensure the remaining ones are healthy.

      • After sowing, keep the soil moist but not waterlogged.

      SOWING SEEDS IN V-SHAPED DRILLS

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      1 In winter, dig the soil. In spring, evenly firm the soil by systematically treading over it (see page 14) and rake it level.

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      2 Stretch a garden line between two short canes and use a draw hoe to form an evenly deep drill (see below for depths).

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      3 Remove the garden line and sow seeds evenly and thinly in the drill’s base (see opposite for sowing preferences).

      4 To cover the drill, straddle the row and slowly shuffle forward so that friable soil is pushed over the seeds. Then firm the soil by carefully walking over it. Label the ends of the rows, and shallowly draw a metal rake over the row (in the direction of the rows and not across them) to remove footprints and level the soil’s surface.

      ALTERNATIVE WAYS TO COVER AND FIRM SEEDS

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       Use the flat top of a metal rake to draw and push soil over the seeds.

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       Firm the surface with the flat top of a metal rake; then lightly draw the rake over the row (in the direction of the row) to ensure it is level.

      Vegetables to sow in this way

      • Broad (fava) beans: drills 7.5 cm (3 in) deep; sow seeds 23 cm (9 in) apart.

      • French beans: drills 5 cm (2 in) deep; sow seeds 7.5–10 cm (3–4 in) apart.

      • Runner beans: drills 5 cm (2 in) deep; sow seeds 15 cm (6 in) apart.

      • Beetroot: drills 2.5 cm (1 in) deep; sow seeds in clusters of three, 10–15 cm (4–6 in) apart. Later, thin to one strong seedling at each position.

      • Brussels sprouts and cabbages: drills 12–18 mm (½–¾ in) deep in a seed bed, for later planting in growing positions.

      • Carrots: drills 12–18 mm (½–¾ in) deep; sow thinly and later thin.

      • Lettuce: drills 12 mm (½ in) deep; sow thinly and later thin the seedlings.

      • Parsnips: drills 12–18 mm (½–¾ in) deep; sow clusters of three seeds about 15 cm (6 in) apart and later thin to one strong seedling at each position.

      • Radishes: drills 12 mm (½ in) deep; thin seedlings to about 2.5 cm (1 in) apart.

      • Spinach: drills 12–18 mm (½–¾ in) deep; later, thin seedlings.

      • Spring onions (scallions): drills 12 mm (½ in) deep; thinning is not necessary.

      • Turnips: drills 12–18 mm (½–¾ in) deep; thin seedlings.

      FLAT-BOTTOMED TRENCHES

      Garden peas are ideal for sowing in trenches, although sometimes they are sown in two drills, 7.5 cm (3 in) deep and 20 cm (8 in) apart. However, it is easier to use a flat-bottomed trench, 6.5 cm (2¾ in) deep and 20 cm (8 in) wide.

      On the base of the trench, position three rows of peas, 7.5 cm (3 in) apart, across the trench’s width and 5 cm (2 in) apart in the rows. Stagger the positions of seeds within the rows so that each seedling has the maximum amount of space. There is no need to thin the seedlings.

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      PLANTING POTATO TUBERS (SEED POTATOES)

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      1 Potatoes are raised from tubers saved from the previous year’s crop and known as ‘seed’ potatoes. They are planted during mid- and late spring. Use a spade to form 15 cm (6 in) drills that are uniformly deep.

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