Restaurants, too, can be institutions of public history, and food is an essential but ephemeral form of popular culture. The immediate intimacy of eating encourages asking and answering questions about one’s self, identity, and community, and Jewish restaurants encourage patrons to relate family stories.63 “A lot of people come in and they want to tell us their experiences they’ve had with this food growing up,” said Ilyse Lerner, owner of On Rye, a deli in Washington, D.C.64 The restaurateurs and purveyors of Jewish food examined in this book relate stories of their family histories and of Jewish communal histories through their food, décor, and presentation. Like all sites of public history, these eateries have a particular point of view. For Karen Adelman, co-owner of Saul’s Deli in Berkeley, California, “the principal story” told in Saul’s Deli is that of “Ashkenazi Jews from the Old World and then New York, and then they continue going west” until they reach California, making Saul’s Deli—and its patrons—the apotheosis of Jewish history.
Looking beyond traditional religious institutions and practices to ostensibly secular sites of popular culture and public history reveals that nostalgic institutions and practices are an alternate, as yet under-appreciated, way of being Jewish and of maintaining Jewish continuity. These institutions and practices help Jews establish and sustain an emotional connection to an imagined transhistorical Jewish community. Nostalgia helps us to expand the concept of religion, demonstrating that religious meaning is contingent upon practices and narratives, not only on beliefs, attendance at religious services, and participation in established institutions. Once we think to look for it, we can see Jewish religious meaning and experience in a variety of seemingly non-religious settings.
Beyond the door of the synagogue or Jewish community center, American Jews’ religious lives are rich, complex, and hard to pin down. American Jews with a broad array of religious affiliations and those with no affiliation engage in the ostensibly non-religious activities of Jewish genealogical research, visiting Jewish historic sites, consuming markedly Jewish food, and purchasing books and toys that teach the mitzvah of Jewish nostalgia to their children. These activities can provide personally meaningful, emotionally driven engagement with American Jewish pasts that inspire longing for Jewish communities across time and space. Attention to American Jewish nostalgia helps us to look for American Judaism in new places, identifying robust forms of religious meaning in works of public and private history and emphasizing the centrality of emotional norms in American Jewish religion.
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